Trip Report June/July 2022 (Part 3 of 4)

TRIP REPORT PART 3 of 4. (Hiking Days # 3 and #4): I had crossed the Island (Windigo to Rock Harbor) on the Greenstone Ridge Trail on hiking days # 1, and #2. I woke up before dawn on Day # 3 in a shelter at the Rock Harbor Campground--with a goal of crossing the Island (Rock Harbor to Windigo) in two days using the Minong Ridge Trail. (It ended taking me a total of three days RH to Windigo--primarily due to rain). By the end of the day--I covered over 22 miles. The next day I covered 11.4 miles. (Note: This was my FIFTH TRIP covering the entire Minong Ridge Trail between McCargoe Cove and Windigo--and I have covered smaller sections of the Minong many other times. So, I am very familiar with this trail).

I started this part of the hike at the Rock Harbor dock probably about a half-hour before dawn. In the attached photos, you will see a really neat looking moth that I encountered in Rock Harbor as I started my hike. (It was resting on a light). The first part of my route took me down the Tobin Harbor Trail to the Mount Franklin Junction (near three Mile Campground). Then, up to Mt. Franklin.

The views along the trail were nice--but the hike itself was mostly calm and uneventful--except for me stirring up a resting or sleeping young bull moose on my way up to Mt. Franklin. He must have heard me approaching and he stood up with quite the rustle and crash of the surrounding foliage--and within several seconds he had galloped off into the woods. (This was moose # 4 on my trip--I had seen a bull and two cows at Rock Harbor).

The views from Mt. Franklin were nice (as is usually the case). I am the pastor of a small rural congregation and I belong to Protestant monastic group as well. We devote much of our time to prayer. For some reason, Isle Royale has become my "special" spiritual place for prayer and getting close to God--and Mt. Franklin is my EXTRA special place for prayer and meditation on all of Isle Royale. On at least two occasions, I have even privately celebrated the Lord's Supper (communion) on the rocks at Mt. Franklin. Today, because of my planned high mileage day, I just enjoyed the views on Mt. Franklin and did brief mid-morning prayer--then it was time to move on.

The next stop was Mt. Ojibway and the fire tower there. For some reason, this section of the hike seemed to take "forever". Even once I saw the fire tower in the distance, it seemed like it took me quite a while to get there. I finally reached the Mt. Ojibway fire tower. I took off my pack and rested for a while--I drank a lot of water and had a snack--and spent my time climbing the fire tower and enjoying the views. (Unlike many people, I personally refuse to take my cellphone off of airplane mode and check for cell service at Mt. Franklin or Mt. Ojibway. I come to Isle Royale to cut myself off from the outside world. I use my phone for GPS, as a camera, and maybe for some occasional reading material. I never check for a cell signal).

After Mt. Ojibway, It was a long walk toward East Chickenbone--and then on toward McCargoe Cove. There were some good views along the early portions of this segment. However, there is not much to report--with one MAJOR exception.
As I was crossing a bridge/boardwalk between East Chickenbone and McCargoe Cove--I saw a cow moose and her calf in the water. I have encountered hundreds of moose in the wild and know how to respectfully keep my distance. It seemed as if the cow and calf were far enough away--enjoying a meal of water foliage in the beaver pond. They were looking away from me and paying no attention to me. AND, part of the boardwalk/bridge was located BEHIND a tall beaver dam and dwelling. So, I started out across the bridge/boardwalk. Mama and baby seemed to pay me no attention as I slowly made my way across the planks. As I passed BEHIND the beaver dam/dwelling--I even heard mom and calf quickly trotting away. All the better!

Well, Mom and baby HADN'T walked away. In those few very brief seconds (when I was behind the beaver dam/dwelling), they had walked CLOSER to the beaver dam/dwelling. As I emerged from the other side, I was now probably no more than 20 feet away from mama (in her new location) and she was looking right at me and was apparently startled by seeing me so close. She did not "attack"--but she certainly did go into defensive / protective mama mode. I hustled the final feet off of that boardwalk (even stepping in muck) and quickly got a cluster of trees between me and mom. She was definitely snorting and pacing back and forth looking for me and making her presence known. She soon called out to baby--baby responded--and mom wandered off back to her baby. (After she walked away, I figuratively changed my Depend undergarments and walked away myself when I thought all was clear and safe).

I made it to McCargoe Cove. I rested. I ate some food. Refilled water containers. Chatted with delightful people. After maybe an hour-and-a-half, I headed out again toward Todd Harbor. Once again, the second half of this particular segment seemed to take an eternity. I seemed to be "close" to Todd Harbor--but the walk took forever. I got to Todd Harbor as the sun was setting. I sat down with wonderful people at the "community" picnic table near the group fire ring and chatted and ate. (I had covered over 22 miles today).

After everyone else left the picnic table area, it was now "late" and dark--so in the interest of being quiet, I just "cowboy camped" --under the stars--right on the picnic table. I didn't go to a campsite and set up camp.

The next day, I woke up long before down. I placed the few items that I had taken out of my pack--back into my pack. I filled my water containers in the lake.(after filtering the water) and got on my way while it was still a bit dark.

Today's route had two parts (Todd Harbor to Little Todd and Little Todd to North Desor.) I even had the hope of possibly going on to Windigo if I covered this section fast enough. I ultimately stopped at N. Desor around 2 p.m.--for the sake of safety--because I was a bit tired and hungry. I needed to refill my water containers--and it looked like rain. (And rain did start--maybe a half hour or so after I got to N. Lake Desor Campground).

Not a whole lot to report fro this particular day. It is just a lot of difficult walking. Some stream crossings. (See the picture of the twisted log that I used as a bridge--as I approached Little Todd.). The terrain in this section is often rocky and rugged (and hot and dehydrating) up on the ridge. Then, the trail drops back down into thick and overgrown trails in the woods--and sometimes swamps--then back up to the hot, rocky, ridge and then back down into the woods and swamps (repeat again and again--all day). This is the slowest and (arguably) "toughest" segment on all of isle Royale. It took me (the world's slowest hiker) probably 8-9 hours to cover the 11.4 miles from Todd Harbor to N. Desor.

As noted above, I reached N. Desor in mid-afternoon ...and I decided to stop for the day--for many reasons--the biggest of which being the distinct possibility of lots of rain approaching. Shortly after I finished setting up my "tent" (Gatewood Cape--a combination of rain gear and shelter)--the rains started and continued off and on through the afternoon of the next day). I am glad that I stopped for the day at N. Desor. The next 13.5 miles to Windigo-- were tough and slippery in the rain and broad daylight of the next--even after a night's rest and eating lots of food. They would have been extremely dangerous if I was fatigued and if darkness was eventually approaching.