TRIP REPORT: August 2021. (Part 2 of 5)

TRIP REPORT 2021: (PART 2)--TWO DAYS AT CHIPPEWA HARBOR (Days 7 & 8 of my 16-day trip).

The two days that I spent at Chippewa Harbor Campground (August 20-21, 2021) were among two of the best days that I have spent on Isle Royale in my 15 trips to the Island. It was mostly about the people that I met there-- but it was also about the sights and experiences (and, the naps). I had stayed at (and/or visited) Chippewa Harbor multiple times before and greatly enjoyed it. However, there was just something even more special about my time at Chippewa Harbor this year.

I arrived at Chippewa Harbor (from Lake Richie) on the morning of August 20th. I was able to get Shelter # 3. I spent two nights there.

Probably within an hour of arriving at Chippewa Harbor, I learned (from two different sources) that Lake Richie had just been added back to the blue-green algae "do not drink from this lake" list. Well, I had spent the previous day at Lake Richie--and I had filtered water from Lake Richie. I had consumed water from Lake Richie. I currently had water from Lake Richie in my water bottles and water storage bladder. So, I spent a considerable amount of time thoroughly cleaning my water filter, cleaning water bottles, and cleaning the water storage bladder. Then, I had to get all new water from Chippewa Harbor--filter it and treat it. (As of the evening of 9/2/2021--I so far seem to have experienced no ill effects from drinking Lake Richie water).

At the Chippewa Harbor dock, there was a sailboat (with three generations of a family onboard). There were the parents --who were retirement age. Their adult son was there (a newly graduated Ph.D. recipient), as was the son's wife, and the younger couple's two very young sons.

There was also a recreation/ fishing boat moored at the dock. That boat had two couples about my general age (some were older some were younger). They were out hiking when I arrived. (I had met them on the trail as I hiked toward Chippewa Harbor). They came back while I was cleaning my drinking water items and filtering new water. They went swimming. They invited me to swim also. I declined--until I finished the cleaning of my water containers and I had plenty of new filtered water. By the time that I was done with that, they were done swimming. However, I went swimming anyway.

The couples had brought floating, foam, "pool noodles" with them on their boat. They told me that I could use the pool noodles if I wanted to use them (and, I did use them). It was a very hot day. The water was warm (by Lake Superior standards). I will turn age 60 in early November. And, here I was, floating around in Chippewa Harbor--with pool noodles--for probably 30-40 minutes. What a surreal experience for a senior citizen backpacker on Isle Royale!

About this same time (while I was filtering water)--three sea kayakers arrived. They had paddled to Isle Royale from Minnesota and were now circumnavigating the Island. They really knew their stuff. Just before I arrived, a couple from Illinois had arrived via ferry or water taxi--and they had their canoe with them. (The next day, they would begin canoeing in the area inland lakes). Shortly after my arrival, a hiker from Illinois (about my age) had arrived at Chippewa Harbor. I had met him two days earlier as he passed through the West Chickenbone area. Various other people would come and go over the next two days. I had wonderful discussions with most/all of them.

I napped a bit in the early afternoon. In the late afternoon, I took a little hike. I hiked to a little cabin at Chippewa Harbor (nicknamed by some people "The Schoolhouse" because of an abandoned school desk or two in the cabin). It is the Holger and Lucy Johnson Cabin and it has a plaque inside dedicating the cabin to them.

I then hiked to the top of the ridge "behind" and above the Chippewa Harbor shelters and campground. There were some very nice views from that ridge. I had some much appreciated alone time and solitude up on this ridge.

Late on the first evening, the two couples in the recreation/fishing boat shared freshly caught lake trout with some of the rest of us. Large fillets--grilled and prepared with homemade seasoning rubs and other items. It was an "all the fish that you can eat" situation. One person described it as possibly the best trout that they had ever eaten. I would have to agree. Not a bad way to end Day # 1 of my stay at Chippewa Harbor (and the end of my Week # 1 on the Island for this trip).
During the night, I periodically woke up and watched the very bright moon as it "traveled" across the sky from the left side to the right side of the front of my shelter.

My second day at Chippewa Harbor included meeting a man who was trying to celebrate his 40th year of life by RUNNING 40+ miles on Isle Royale in one day. He stopped at Chippewa Harbor to get water. We chatted a bit. Interesting man and interesting running goals. (I later learned that the extreme heat and the large number of blue-green algae blooms in the lakes impacted his hydration situation. So, he ran "only" 40+ kilometers instead of 40+ miles. Ultimately, he ran 27 miles on Isle Royale trails that day--which is more than a marathon. Amazing.).

I did a side hike to Lake Mason in the early afternoon. (Lake Mason is located is near Chippewa Harbor). I had great solitude --for a while. Then three (or more) other parties came to see Lake Mason also. I am not complaining that others came there. The Park (and all of its various locations) are open to all persons. The presence of others merely changed the nature of my time at Lake Mason. It was still a good time.

I got in another nap that afternoon. Then I had dinner. After dinner, I spent time talking to the various people who were staying at the shelters and campsites. Eventually, one of the female sea kayakers got out a ukulele and started playing it. That prompted the son (middle generation) on the sailboat to get out a youth guitar and join her. Soon, we had a 1.5 to 2-hour "concert" and sing-along session on the open and exposed rocky terrain of Chippewa Harbor Campground It lasted until about 15 minutes before quiet hours began. I gave it the name --- "The Rock Concert at Chippewa" (as we were located on the rocks of Chippewa Harbor).

Some of the songs included Elvis' "I Can't Help Falling In Love With You"; Camila Cabello's "Havana"; Broadway show tunes; 1950s and 1960s "Doo Wop" songs; Kermit the Frog's "Rainbow Connection"--which I began to hear as a waltz--and I waltzed alone on the rocks at Chippewa Harbor to this song--lol; "Don't Worry ... Be Happy"; small portions of "Rapper's Delight"--by the Sugar Hill Gang); "Proud Mary"--by Tina Turner; "Dock of the Bay"; "Lean on Me"; "The Lion Sleeps Tonight"; "Oh What a Night (December 1963)"; and many others.

It was another great night to occasionally watch the moon "travel" across the front of my shelter whenever I woke up.
I left Chippewa Harbor the next morning and hiked to Moskey Basin--where I spent THREE days in a shelter on the lake shore. As I hiked out of the long trail to/from Chippewa Harbor--I saw two moose. (I only got acceptable photos of the cow and not the bull). I also saw a fox exploring the waterfront along the portage that is a part of Lake Richie and connects to the Chippewa Harbor Trail.

At Chippewa Harbor, I had great discussions with people ranging from age two to people somewhere in their 60s. We discussed sailing, politics, retirement, God, science, the importance of throwing rocks and sticks in the water (a discussion with children), fishing, kayaking, hiking, canoeing the length of the Yukon River, nature, history, Isle Royale, and so many other topics. It was a great two days of discussions.

In addition to the great discussions, I napped. I prayed. I had some alone time on a ridge above Chippewa Harbor and at Lake Mason. I saw an old cabin. I ate some of the best trout that I have ever eaten. I participated in a nearly two hour sing-along. I waltzed alone on the rocks to the song "Rainbow Connection". I watched the moon make it's way across the sky. I floated around in Lake Superior on pool noodles. I listened to Sandhill Cranes as they flew overhead.

These were among the two best days that I have spent on Isle Royale over the course of 15 trips.

Note: I actually do know the names of most/all the people that I encountered. I just chose to not give their names here ... especially without their express permission. I also couldn't talk about every encounter that I had with every person. Space limitations would not permit it. My failure to mention in this post actual names or specific people or certain encounters by no means diminishes the importance and value of the people, the encounters, or the experiences. A post can be only so long.