TRIP REPORT: August 2021 (Part 1 of 5)

TRIP REPORT # 1 (2021): It was not the trip that I wanted or planned. However, it was probably the trip that I needed. It was my 15th trip to Isle Royale. It was a 16-day solo trip to the Island (August 14-29, 2021). The tentative plan was for me to hike over 150 miles and visit all of the trail-accessible campsites in just one trip. (I have been to all of those campsites multiple times). What ultimately happened, was a 16-day trip, where I probably hiked only about 40 miles--and where I rested and explored a great deal for multiple days at some very nice campsites...(all of them located on the eastern half of the Island).
What I originally planned as a trip with lots of hiking--became a trip of mostly rest and relaxation. I now realize that I needed that rest after 18 months of dealing with a world (and my personal work environment) greatly impacted by Covid-19. I got the trip that I NEEDED --and not the trip that I WANTED.

DAY # 1: I traveled from Grand Portage, MN to Isle Royale on the Voyager II. I got my permit during a several-minute stop in Windigo. I was dropped off at McCargoe Cove. Because it was already early afternoon, I stayed at McCargoe Cove for the night. However, I did do a day hike all the way around Chickenbone Lake. I was feeling great and hiking strong.

DAY # 2: My stomach felt a little "upset" in the morning. I had to use the restroom a couple of times in the morning before starting my hike. I chalked it up to being an "older" individual--and to traveling for two days to get to the Island. I just figured that my sleep and digestive cycles were "out of whack" from the trip and crazy schedule. No big deal. Well, it took me nearly 9.5 hours to hike the 6.7 miles to Todd Harbor. I felt nauseous...I had a stomachache much of the day. I probably set some sort of record for most "catholes" dug in one day. During my hike, I would sit down and rest next to my backpack and fall asleep. I felt dehydrated by the end of the day. I reached Todd Harbor and slept in my hammock. My best guess is that I had picked up some "stomach bug" during my two days of traveling to get to Isle Royale--and it manifested itself once I got to the Island.

DAY # 3: Change of plans. Instead of hiking to North Lake Desor Campground via the Minong Ridge Trail (11.4 miles) --I stayed at Todd Harbor--resting, exploring, rehydrating. My stomach was still somewhat upset...and I often stayed near the outhouse. The shelter at Todd Harbor became open and available, so I moved from the hammock to the shelter. Temperatures were very hot (just like they had been on the first two days). Today, I started to contemplate abandoning my plan to hike 150 miles-- and (instead) do a much shorter hike. I would possibly stay on the eastern side of the Island. I would possibly hike short mileages (4-8 miles) and stay 2-3 days at some campgrounds. I was feeling drained and exhausted. Today, I would be active (and feeling somewhat normal) for a few hours at a time--then I would have to take a nap and rest.

Day # 4: I got up in the morning and started hiking westward(ish). I would have a big decision to make when I reached the junction where the trail splits to go toward Little Todd Harbor or to Hatchet Lake. Going toward Little Todd meant that I was going to hike the Minong to Windigo (and then hike back to Rock Harbor). Going to Hatchet Lake meant that I was likely going to hike short mileage days--rest for days at a time--and stay on the eastern half of the Island. I spent a long time at the junction debating the decision. (More on that in another post). I was feeling pretty good when I reached the junction--but I was not feeling 100% recovered. I strongly wanted to hike to Little Todd Habor (and almost did). I ultimately went to Hatchet Lake. (It would be over a week before my stomach felt somewhat normal). I spent the night at Hatchet Lake. Hiked 4.1 miles today.

Day # 5: I hiked from Hatchet Lake to West Chickenbone. (7.9 miles). Still feeling tired. Hiking slow. Because of the blue-green algae situation at Chickenbone--I picked up water elsewhere. I drank a lot of water today. Probably over 2.5 gallons. It was hot. I still wasn't feeling 100%.

Day # 6: I hiked from West Chickenbone to Lake Richie (3.6 miles). What made this day notable, is that I drank water from Lake Richie. When I arrived on the Island, Lake Richie was no longer on the "do not drink from this lake" list (both per the official Isle Royale Website and the ranger that issued me my permit). The early summer blue-green algae bloom had disappeared and the lake had been taken off of the list. So, I drank water from Lake Richie. Well, the next day, hikers and boaters (newly arrived on the island) informed me that Lake Richie had just been put back on the "do not drink from this lake" list--due to blue-green algae bloom. (As of September 1st, I still haven't noticed any ill effects from drinking the Lake Richie water).

Day # 7 and Day # 8: I hiked from Lake Richie to Chippewa Harbor (4.3 miles). I had a shelter both nights. I met great people (more about that in a future post). I spent two days exploring the area. I had two of my best days ever on Isle Royale--mostly due to the people that I encountered. Late in the day (on my second day at Chippewa Harbor), I started smelling smoke from the Isle Royale ("Horne") wildfire and I began having some eye irritation and similar symptoms. However, I didn't know what was causing it at this point. I figured that it was just smoke from the fires in Canada and in the Western States and itchy eyes and runny nose caused by my seasonal allergies.
Day # 9, Day # 10, Day # 11. I hiked from Chippewa Harbor to Moskey Basin (6.2 miles). Originally, due to overcrowding, I was set up with my hammock at a tent campsite--and I was sharing the site with a person who arrived just moments after me. HOWEVER, someone left their shelter after 4:00 p.m. in the afternoon (which is very unusual). A family (that I had met at the Moskey dock) informed me about the newly vacant shelter--and they helped me obtain that shelter. So, I ultimately spent three glorious days and nights in Shelter # 2 at Moskey Basin ... right on the lakeshore. Again, I met many great people at Moskey Basin. (I will write about that in a post about "people"). Mostly, I spent three days just relaxing, napping, and enjoying the view.

Day # 12 and Day # 13: I hiked 3.9 miles from Moskey Basin to Daisy Farm. I had a shelter both nights. I met more great people. I napped. I hiked to the Mount Ojibway fire tower to enjoy the view. I mostly just "hung out" and relaxed for a couple of days. We finally got a bit of rain--but I still did not use my raingear on this trip.
Day # 14: I hiked from Daisy Farm to Three Mile Campground (4.4 miles). It was much cooler and very windy. We got a little more rain late in the day and overnight. I stayed in a shelter--located a bit farther back in the woods and not on the lakeshore. (At first, I had a shelter on the lakeshore, but the wind was blowing directly into it. So, I moved). Today, I was physically feeling better than I had previously felt on this entire trip. I even hiked at a speed of over 2 miles per hour. (This was much different than when it took me nearly 9.5 hours to hike 6.7 miles on Day # 2--when I actively had the stomach bug).

Day # 15: I hiked from Three Mile to Rock Harbor--via the Tobin Harbor Trail. (About 3.6 miles). I hiked well and "fast". For the first time on this entire trip, I was also finally encountering damp trails and wet foliage--and that dampness caused my clothing to get wet as I walked. (This situation is not at all unusual on a NORMAL Isle Royale trip--but it was very unusual for this very dry year). I got a shelter at Rock Harbor. I took my first shower in over two weeks. I ate a couple of times at the Greenstone Grill. I talked to lots of people. There was a thunderstorm overnight. I went to use the outhouse during the night--and wore my raingear for the first time on this entire trip. I saw the firefighters today.

Day # 16: I got up early to get on the Voyager II ferry. The ferry was leaving an hour early due to predicted high waves later in the day. I wore my rain poncho early in the morning. I rode on the Voyager from Rock Harbor to Windigo--and from Windigo to Grand Portage (Minnesota). According to the Captain of the Voyager, some of the waves that we encountered were 8 footers. (I get seasick easily--so it was NOT a fun ride. However, I never vomited). I arrived at Grand Portage in the mid-afternoon. I then started a couple-day journey back to my home in West Central Illinois--with stops to visit relatives along the way.

So, I didn't hike 150+ miles nor did I visit all of the trail-accessible campgrounds as I had originally planned. However, I DID get lots of rest and I met many wonderful people. (I only saw six moose). Sometimes, we get the trip that we need --and not the trip that we plan or want.
I also encountered a bad stomach virus--(likely picked up on the mainland prior to my arrival on the Island). I experienced very hot weather temperatures and very dry conditions. I drank from a lake with a blue-green algae bloom. I dealt with COVID-19 restrictions and precautions. I was on the Island during a wildfire. And, I rode through 8-foot waves on the trip back from the Island.

I will post more photos and more details about specific aspects of the trip in the coming days and weeks. (This will be as my schedule) permits. I was away from home for 20 days--if you include my travel time to and from the Island. Thus, I now have much "catching up" to do at both home and work).

The attached photo was taken during sunset at Todd Harbor on Day # 3.