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TRIP REPORT 2021: (PART 2)--TWO DAYS AT CHIPPEWA HARBOR (Days 7 & 8 of my 16-day trip). The two days that I spent at Chippewa Harbor Campground (August 20-21, 2021) were among two of the best days that I have spent on Isle Royale in my 15 trips to the Island. It was mostly about the people that I met there-- but it was also about the sights and experiences (and, the naps). I had stayed at (and/or visited) Chippewa Harbor multiple times before and greatly enjoyed it. However, there was just something even more special about my time at Chippewa Harbor this year. I arrived at Chippewa Harbor (from Lake Richie) on the morning of August 20th. I was able to get Shelter # 3. I spent two nights there. Probably within an hour of arriving at Chippewa Harbor, I learned (from two different sources) that Lake Richie had just been added back to the blue-green algae "do not drink from this lake" list. Well, I had spent the previous day at Lake Richie--and I had filtered water from Lake Richie. I had consumed water from Lake Richie. I currently had water from Lake Richie in my water bottles and water storage bladder. So, I spent a considerable amount of time thoroughly cleaning my water filter, cleaning water bottles, and cleaning the water storage bladder. Then, I had to get all new water from Chippewa Harbor--filter it and treat it. (As of the evening of 9/2/2021--I so far seem to have experienced no ill effects from drinking Lake Richie water). At the Chippewa Harbor dock, there was a sailboat (with three generations of a family onboard). There were the parents --who were retirement age. Their adult son was there (a newly graduated Ph.D. recipient), as was the son's wife, and the younger couple's two very young sons. There was also a recreation/ fishing boat moored at the dock. That boat had two couples about my general age (some were older some were younger). They were out hiking when I arrived. (I had met them on the trail as I hiked toward Chippewa Harbor). They came back while I was cleaning my drinking water items and filtering new water. They went swimming. They invited me to swim also. I declined--until I finished the cleaning of my water containers and I had plenty of new filtered water. By the time that I was done with that, they were done swimming. However, I went swimming anyway. The couples had brought floating, foam, "pool noodles" with them on their boat. They told me that I could use the pool noodles if I wanted to use them (and, I did use them). It was a very hot day. The water was warm (by Lake Superior standards). I will turn age 60 in early November. And, here I was, floating around in Chippewa Harbor--with pool noodles--for probably 30-40 minutes. What a surreal experience for a senior citizen backpacker on Isle Royale! About this same time (while I was filtering water)--three sea kayakers arrived. They had paddled to Isle Royale from Minnesota and were now circumnavigating the Island. They really knew their stuff. Just before I arrived, a couple from Illinois had arrived via ferry or water taxi--and they had their canoe with them. (The next day, they would begin canoeing in the area inland lakes). Shortly after my arrival, a hiker from Illinois (about my age) had arrived at Chippewa Harbor. I had met him two days earlier as he passed through the West Chickenbone area. Various other people would come and go over the next two days. I had wonderful discussions with most/all of them. I napped a bit in the early afternoon. In the late afternoon, I took a little hike. I hiked to a little cabin at Chippewa Harbor (nicknamed by some people "The Schoolhouse" because of an abandoned school desk or two in the cabin). It is the Holger and Lucy Johnson Cabin and it has a plaque inside dedicating the cabin to them. I then hiked to the top of the ridge "behind" and above the Chippewa Harbor shelters and campground. There were some very nice views from that ridge. I had some much appreciated alone time and solitude up on this ridge. Late on the first evening, the two couples in the recreation/fishing boat shared freshly caught lake trout with some of the rest of us. Large fillets--grilled and prepared with homemade seasoning rubs and other items. It was an "all the fish that you can eat" situation. One person described it as possibly the best trout that they had ever eaten. I would have to agree. Not a bad way to end Day # 1 of my stay at Chippewa Harbor (and the end of my Week # 1 on the Island for this trip). During the night, I periodically woke up and watched the very bright moon as it "traveled" across the sky from the left side to the right side of the front of my shelter. My second day at Chippewa Harbor included meeting a man who was trying to celebrate his 40th year of life by RUNNING 40+ miles on Isle Royale in one day. He stopped at Chippewa Harbor to get water. We chatted a bit. Interesting man and interesting running goals. (I later learned that the extreme heat and the large number of blue-green algae blooms in the lakes impacted his hydration situation. So, he ran "only" 40+ kilometers instead of 40+ miles. Ultimately, he ran 27 miles on Isle Royale trails that day--which is more than a marathon. Amazing.). I did a side hike to Lake Mason in the early afternoon. (Lake Mason is located is near Chippewa Harbor). I had great solitude --for a while. Then three (or more) other parties came to see Lake Mason also. I am not complaining that others came there. The Park (and all of its various locations) are open to all persons. The presence of others merely changed the nature of my time at Lake Mason. It was still a good time. I got in another nap that afternoon. Then I had dinner. After dinner, I spent time talking to the various people who were staying at the shelters and campsites. Eventually, one of the female sea kayakers got out a ukulele and started playing it. That prompted the son (middle generation) on the sailboat to get out a youth guitar and join her. Soon, we had a 1.5 to 2-hour "concert" and sing-along session on the open and exposed rocky terrain of Chippewa Harbor Campground It lasted until about 15 minutes before quiet hours began. I gave it the name --- "The Rock Concert at Chippewa" (as we were located on the rocks of Chippewa Harbor). Some of the songs included Elvis' "I Can't Help Falling In Love With You"; Camila Cabello's "Havana"; Broadway show tunes; 1950s and 1960s "Doo Wop" songs; Kermit the Frog's "Rainbow Connection"--which I began to hear as a waltz--and I waltzed alone on the rocks at Chippewa Harbor to this song--lol; "Don't Worry ... Be Happy"; small portions of "Rapper's Delight"--by the Sugar Hill Gang); "Proud Mary"--by Tina Turner; "Dock of the Bay"; "Lean on Me"; "The Lion Sleeps Tonight"; "Oh What a Night (December 1963)"; and many others. It was another great night to occasionally watch the moon "travel" across the front of my shelter whenever I woke up. I left Chippewa Harbor the next morning and hiked to Moskey Basin--where I spent THREE days in a shelter on the lake shore. As I hiked out of the long trail to/from Chippewa Harbor--I saw two moose. (I only got acceptable photos of the cow and not the bull). I also saw a fox exploring the waterfront along the portage that is a part of Lake Richie and connects to the Chippewa Harbor Trail. At Chippewa Harbor, I had great discussions with people ranging from age two to people somewhere in their 60s. We discussed sailing, politics, retirement, God, science, the importance of throwing rocks and sticks in the water (a discussion with children), fishing, kayaking, hiking, canoeing the length of the Yukon River, nature, history, Isle Royale, and so many other topics. It was a great two days of discussions. In addition to the great discussions, I napped. I prayed. I had some alone time on a ridge above Chippewa Harbor and at Lake Mason. I saw an old cabin. I ate some of the best trout that I have ever eaten. I participated in a nearly two hour sing-along. I waltzed alone on the rocks to the song "Rainbow Connection". I watched the moon make it's way across the sky. I floated around in Lake Superior on pool noodles. I listened to Sandhill Cranes as they flew overhead. These were among the two best days that I have spent on Isle Royale over the course of 15 trips. Note: I actually do know the names of most/all the people that I encountered. I just chose to not give their names here ... especially without their express permission. I also couldn't talk about every encounter that I had with every person. Space limitations would not permit it. My failure to mention in this post actual names or specific people or certain encounters by no means diminishes the importance and value of the people, the encounters, or the experiences. A post can be only so long.
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TRIP REPORT # 1 (2021): It was not the trip that I wanted or planned. However, it was probably the trip that I needed. It was my 15th trip to Isle Royale. It was a 16-day solo trip to the Island (August 14-29, 2021). The tentative plan was for me to hike over 150 miles and visit all of the trail-accessible campsites in just one trip. (I have been to all of those campsites multiple times). What ultimately happened, was a 16-day trip, where I probably hiked only about 40 miles--and where I rested and explored a great deal for multiple days at some very nice campsites...(all of them located on the eastern half of the Island). What I originally planned as a trip with lots of hiking--became a trip of mostly rest and relaxation. I now realize that I needed that rest after 18 months of dealing with a world (and my personal work environment) greatly impacted by Covid-19. I got the trip that I NEEDED --and not the trip that I WANTED. DAY # 1: I traveled from Grand Portage, MN to Isle Royale on the Voyager II. I got my permit during a several-minute stop in Windigo. I was dropped off at McCargoe Cove. Because it was already early afternoon, I stayed at McCargoe Cove for the night. However, I did do a day hike all the way around Chickenbone Lake. I was feeling great and hiking strong. DAY # 2: My stomach felt a little "upset" in the morning. I had to use the restroom a couple of times in the morning before starting my hike. I chalked it up to being an "older" individual--and to traveling for two days to get to the Island. I just figured that my sleep and digestive cycles were "out of whack" from the trip and crazy schedule. No big deal. Well, it took me nearly 9.5 hours to hike the 6.7 miles to Todd Harbor. I felt nauseous...I had a stomachache much of the day. I probably set some sort of record for most "catholes" dug in one day. During my hike, I would sit down and rest next to my backpack and fall asleep. I felt dehydrated by the end of the day. I reached Todd Harbor and slept in my hammock. My best guess is that I had picked up some "stomach bug" during my two days of traveling to get to Isle Royale--and it manifested itself once I got to the Island. DAY # 3: Change of plans. Instead of hiking to North Lake Desor Campground via the Minong Ridge Trail (11.4 miles) --I stayed at Todd Harbor--resting, exploring, rehydrating. My stomach was still somewhat upset...and I often stayed near the outhouse. The shelter at Todd Harbor became open and available, so I moved from the hammock to the shelter. Temperatures were very hot (just like they had been on the first two days). Today, I started to contemplate abandoning my plan to hike 150 miles-- and (instead) do a much shorter hike. I would possibly stay on the eastern side of the Island. I would possibly hike short mileages (4-8 miles) and stay 2-3 days at some campgrounds. I was feeling drained and exhausted. Today, I would be active (and feeling somewhat normal) for a few hours at a time--then I would have to take a nap and rest. Day # 4: I got up in the morning and started hiking westward(ish). I would have a big decision to make when I reached the junction where the trail splits to go toward Little Todd Harbor or to Hatchet Lake. Going toward Little Todd meant that I was going to hike the Minong to Windigo (and then hike back to Rock Harbor). Going to Hatchet Lake meant that I was likely going to hike short mileage days--rest for days at a time--and stay on the eastern half of the Island. I spent a long time at the junction debating the decision. (More on that in another post). I was feeling pretty good when I reached the junction--but I was not feeling 100% recovered. I strongly wanted to hike to Little Todd Habor (and almost did). I ultimately went to Hatchet Lake. (It would be over a week before my stomach felt somewhat normal). I spent the night at Hatchet Lake. Hiked 4.1 miles today. Day # 5: I hiked from Hatchet Lake to West Chickenbone. (7.9 miles). Still feeling tired. Hiking slow. Because of the blue-green algae situation at Chickenbone--I picked up water elsewhere. I drank a lot of water today. Probably over 2.5 gallons. It was hot. I still wasn't feeling 100%. Day # 6: I hiked from West Chickenbone to Lake Richie (3.6 miles). What made this day notable, is that I drank water from Lake Richie. When I arrived on the Island, Lake Richie was no longer on the "do not drink from this lake" list (both per the official Isle Royale Website and the ranger that issued me my permit). The early summer blue-green algae bloom had disappeared and the lake had been taken off of the list. So, I drank water from Lake Richie. Well, the next day, hikers and boaters (newly arrived on the island) informed me that Lake Richie had just been put back on the "do not drink from this lake" list--due to blue-green algae bloom. (As of September 1st, I still haven't noticed any ill effects from drinking the Lake Richie water). Day # 7 and Day # 8: I hiked from Lake Richie to Chippewa Harbor (4.3 miles). I had a shelter both nights. I met great people (more about that in a future post). I spent two days exploring the area. I had two of my best days ever on Isle Royale--mostly due to the people that I encountered. Late in the day (on my second day at Chippewa Harbor), I started smelling smoke from the Isle Royale ("Horne") wildfire and I began having some eye irritation and similar symptoms. However, I didn't know what was causing it at this point. I figured that it was just smoke from the fires in Canada and in the Western States and itchy eyes and runny nose caused by my seasonal allergies. Day # 9, Day # 10, Day # 11. I hiked from Chippewa Harbor to Moskey Basin (6.2 miles). Originally, due to overcrowding, I was set up with my hammock at a tent campsite--and I was sharing the site with a person who arrived just moments after me. HOWEVER, someone left their shelter after 4:00 p.m. in the afternoon (which is very unusual). A family (that I had met at the Moskey dock) informed me about the newly vacant shelter--and they helped me obtain that shelter. So, I ultimately spent three glorious days and nights in Shelter # 2 at Moskey Basin ... right on the lakeshore. Again, I met many great people at Moskey Basin. (I will write about that in a post about "people"). Mostly, I spent three days just relaxing, napping, and enjoying the view. Day # 12 and Day # 13: I hiked 3.9 miles from Moskey Basin to Daisy Farm. I had a shelter both nights. I met more great people. I napped. I hiked to the Mount Ojibway fire tower to enjoy the view. I mostly just "hung out" and relaxed for a couple of days. We finally got a bit of rain--but I still did not use my raingear on this trip. Day # 14: I hiked from Daisy Farm to Three Mile Campground (4.4 miles). It was much cooler and very windy. We got a little more rain late in the day and overnight. I stayed in a shelter--located a bit farther back in the woods and not on the lakeshore. (At first, I had a shelter on the lakeshore, but the wind was blowing directly into it. So, I moved). Today, I was physically feeling better than I had previously felt on this entire trip. I even hiked at a speed of over 2 miles per hour. (This was much different than when it took me nearly 9.5 hours to hike 6.7 miles on Day # 2--when I actively had the stomach bug). Day # 15: I hiked from Three Mile to Rock Harbor--via the Tobin Harbor Trail. (About 3.6 miles). I hiked well and "fast". For the first time on this entire trip, I was also finally encountering damp trails and wet foliage--and that dampness caused my clothing to get wet as I walked. (This situation is not at all unusual on a NORMAL Isle Royale trip--but it was very unusual for this very dry year). I got a shelter at Rock Harbor. I took my first shower in over two weeks. I ate a couple of times at the Greenstone Grill. I talked to lots of people. There was a thunderstorm overnight. I went to use the outhouse during the night--and wore my raingear for the first time on this entire trip. I saw the firefighters today. Day # 16: I got up early to get on the Voyager II ferry. The ferry was leaving an hour early due to predicted high waves later in the day. I wore my rain poncho early in the morning. I rode on the Voyager from Rock Harbor to Windigo--and from Windigo to Grand Portage (Minnesota). According to the Captain of the Voyager, some of the waves that we encountered were 8 footers. (I get seasick easily--so it was NOT a fun ride. However, I never vomited). I arrived at Grand Portage in the mid-afternoon. I then started a couple-day journey back to my home in West Central Illinois--with stops to visit relatives along the way. So, I didn't hike 150+ miles nor did I visit all of the trail-accessible campgrounds as I had originally planned. However, I DID get lots of rest and I met many wonderful people. (I only saw six moose). Sometimes, we get the trip that we need --and not the trip that we plan or want. I also encountered a bad stomach virus--(likely picked up on the mainland prior to my arrival on the Island). I experienced very hot weather temperatures and very dry conditions. I drank from a lake with a blue-green algae bloom. I dealt with COVID-19 restrictions and precautions. I was on the Island during a wildfire. And, I rode through 8-foot waves on the trip back from the Island. I will post more photos and more details about specific aspects of the trip in the coming days and weeks. (This will be as my schedule) permits. I was away from home for 20 days--if you include my travel time to and from the Island. Thus, I now have much "catching up" to do at both home and work). The attached photo was taken during sunset at Todd Harbor on Day # 3.  |
AuthorJon Prain ("The Isle Royale Guy"). I have been to Isle Royale 18 times. Archives
August 2022
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