|
TRIP REPORT (Part #5--The Final installment) RELIGIOUS AND SPIRITUAL ASPECTS OF MY TRIP: (Contains religious content). As some of you know, I am married (with two kids). My wife and children do not like the outdoors or backpacking. So, most of my Isle Royale trips are solo. I am also a Protestant pastor of a small rural congregation and I am also a part of a Protestant monastic order (but the members of our order lead our separate lives out in the "real world" --in various cities and states--and we do not live together in a monastery). My time alone on Isle Royale usually becomes a spiritual time of prayer and reflection. My 16-day trip to Isle Royale in 2021 was no different. My goal on my Isle Royale trips is to pray at least 6 times daily -- early morning, mid-morning, mid-day, mid-afternoon, evening, and bedtime. I also pray at other random times during the day and night. My early morning, evening, and bedtime prayers tend to follow written prayers and "formal" liturgies. The rest of my praying is done in a more "free-style" manner --praying whatever comes to my mind and it often transitions into a time of quiet reflection and meditation. I was ill in the early days of my 2021 Isle Royale trip. That illness caused me to re-evaluate my itinerary and the goals for my trip. My logical mind--and my inner spirit (and God)--seemed to be nudging me to switch to a lower-mileage and more restful and relaxing trip. However, my stubborn mind and my stubborn will still wanted to hike many more miles and see more places on the Island. On Day # 4 (my third full day of the trip)--I resumed hiking (after a couple days break at Todd Harbor to rehydrate and recuperate from a stomach bug). I departed Todd Harbor and walked in the general direction of Little Todd Harbor. When I reached the junction to Hatchet Lake--I had a tough choice to make. Going straight put me on the pathway to Little Todd Harbor--and a long trip crossing the Island in both directions. Going to Hatchet Lake put me on the pathway to a shorter, more restful, trip on only the Eastern half of the Island. I was pretty sure that God was probably pushing me to the shorter and more restful trip--but I personally still wanted the big trip. So, I decided to leave it up to God ... and to "chance". I got out a package of fruit snacks--and decided that I would flip it like a coin toss. If it landed with the front label "up"--it meant to go to Hatchet Lake. If it landed with the ingredients side up--I would go to Little Todd Harbor. I prayed for a couple of minutes--and then I tossed the bag of fruit snacks high into the air. It landed with the main label up (Hatchet Lake). Being stubborn, I then told God "Best out of three". I tossed the fruit snacks high into the air --and for the second time--it landed with the main label up. So, I reluctantly went to Hatchet Lake and toward the more restful trip. I was a bit unhappy about the decision. As I hiked toward Hatchet Lake, I "complained" to God that I didn't have enough food for that many days without resupply. (In my original plan, I was supposed to buy more food in Windigo for portions of the second part of the trip). Yet, deep in my spirit, God was saying to me... "Don't worry--I will provide you with enough food. I will make your own provisions stretch and people will feed you along the way. Trust me!" (And, in the coming days, people did indeed offer me food--without me asking). I complained to God as I walked to Hatchet Lake and as I prayed while walking. I said, "But, God, I want to do the big trip and see more places". God replied, (in a spiritual way and not an audible voice)-- "You need to get more rest and you need more time to reflect and pray". I complained to God, "But, there are people and things that I want to see by going on that bigger trip". God replied, "But the people that I want and need you to see are only to be found by going this new way--toward Hatchet Lake". So, I went toward Hatchet Lake and the shorter overall hiking distance and a more restful trip. (See my prior trip report about napping ). It was weird. God DID provide food in interesting ways. I organize and pack my morning and daytime food (and not my evening meals) in ziplock bags. One ziplock bag per day. As I repacked my entire backpack a couple days later at Lake Richie--I found that I suddenly had one more day of food than I recall putting in my backpack at home--or that I had counted when doing an inventory at Todd Harbor on Day # 3 of the trip. I also seemed to become full more quickly on this trip. So, I started having leftovers every day. The food "stretched". As I hiked-- and as I talked to people when on breaks--people would sometimes pass their bag of snacks to me as they said something along these lines: "Would you like some of this? I brought more stuff than I should have and I need to get rid of it". A group at Chippewa Harbor offered me (and others) all of the freshly caught trout that we could possibly eat. At Moskey Basin, a family invited me over to their shelter for the evening meal. When God nudged me to change plans and do the more restful hike, I didn't have enough food in my backpack for the whole trip--without doing resupply. Yet, without going to Windigo or Rock Harbor to do a resupply, I somehow came home with a full day's worth of "extra" food. Go figure. As I noted above, as I grumbled and complained to God (as I reluctantly hiked to Hatchet Lake) --God "informed" me that there were people that God wanted me to see along the new route. As I "heard" this, I simply figured that there were people that God wanted me to minister to along this new (and more restful) route. I was in for another surprise. God pretty much did not put any people in my path for me to minister to on this Isle Royale trip. (This was a big departure from my other Isle Royale trips, when I would somehow end up meeting every addict on Isle Royale, and meet several military persons with PTSD on each trip (I am a former military chaplain). I would usually encounter persons with health problems wanting prayer, or people with big religious and spiritual questions, or grieving people, etc). That didn't happen on this trip. This trip--God sent people to minister TO ME. Other people said things to me that I really needed to hear. People mentioned Bible verses (and things from other religions) that were related to the things with which I was personally wrestling. People mentioned things that they were doing at their own churches (during the pandemic)--that I could "borrow" and implement at my church. Two people even prayed with me and for me. The people that God wanted me to encounter on this revised itinerary--were placed there in order to minister TO me (and not for me to minister to them). The three main spiritual themes for this trip became: 1) Remember, that everyone needs to rest--even Jon Prain. 2) God can--and does-- provide everything that we need. So, trust God more. 3) God can (and does) send people and situations that will help us "refill our (spiritual) fuel tank" and "recharge our (spiritual) batteries". (IF we are open to that happening) A couple of more points. Doing this more restful itinerary--with longer stays at various places--allowed me more time to go to lonely places (and awe-inspiring places) to pray. Many mornings, my morning prayer time happened before and during the time when I got up to watch the sunrise. (Then, I would go back to bed and sleep and rest). Mid-afternoon prayers were often done at some scenic overlook --or a lonely place out in the woods---or while staring out over a lake. I also had more time to do some journaling. I am going to include some random pictures from spots where I prayed on the trip. Some will be new pictures--others will be photos that I previously posted in recent days. I am not going to label them or give locations. I invite you to just look at them...and enjoy. This will be my last trip report for this trip--but maybe I will post a few more photos or videos as time permits. I will close this...with a couple of things from the "formal" morning prayers that I do while on the Island. (I borrow this stuff from the Northumbria monastic community in the United Kingdom). Two of the lines from the morning prayer time include these words: "Be in the heart of each to whom I speak; [And], in the mouth of each who speaks unto me." Each day, my morning prayer time ended with this blessing. (Again, from the Northumbria Community): "May the peace of the Lord Christ go with you, wherever He may send you. May He guide you through the wilderness, protect you through the storm. May He bring you home rejoicing at the wonders He has shown you. May He bring you home rejoicing once again into our doors."
0 Comments
TRIP REPORT (Part # 4). THIS TRIP WAS MORE ABOUT "THE PEOPLE". (Warning: This is mostly just long, rambling, thoughts and recollections) In my 15 trips to Isle Royale, I have met some wonderful people. Some of them have now been my friends for a decade (or more). We have taken other hiking trips together--both on Isle Royale and elsewhere. I have officiated at one Isle Royale wedding (on the Windigo dock in 2018). I have kept in touch as folks (from previous trips) as they have had children and grandchildren --and as others have reached retirement age or encountered times of illnesses. With my super slow hiking pace in 2021 -- and with me staying at some places for 2-3 days this year --people were an even greater part of my 2021 trip than on most of my previous trips. Some of my 2021 encounters lasted for just a few seconds as we passed each other on the trail--other interactions were part of hours and days of encounters on the Island. (There were even some online discussions and comments after our return home). Whether the encounters were brief--or extended-- rest assured that they had an impact on my trip and my life. Let me be clear--not all encounters with my fellow humans on Isle Royale in 2021 were magical. I encountered several people who were violating park regulations and Leave No Trace practices. There were occasional instances of members of groups arguing amongst themselves. There were a few world champion "jerks" that I met. There were even a few people who caused me to wonder how they ever managed to get through a day of life without the assistance of a guardian, aide, and/or chaperone. HOWEVER, in general, an overwhelming percentage of my encounters with other humans on Isle Royale in 2021 were wonderful and memorable. I encountered all sorts of people on my trip--ranging from tiny young children to people in their 60s, 70s, and 80s. I encountered people from many different racial-ethnic backgrounds and from various socio-economic experiences. (But, I must confess that backpacking, paddling, and boating are still activities that are still disproportionately done by persons of European heritage and of middle to higher income levels. I hope that situation will one day change). I encountered people from all along the political and social activism spectrum. There were individuals from a wide variety of gender identifications and sexual orientations. People tended to interact nicely with each other and get along well with each other....even if they were "different" from each other in some notable ways. I wish that we could bring more of those Isle Royale interpersonal experiences to our daily lives on the mainland. Daily life on the Island tends to be a great unifier and "leveler". CEOs and unemployed persons--4 year-olds and 80 year-olds -- Democrats and Republicans-- LGBTQIA+ persons and "straight" persons -- all use the same outhouses. All have to pack in their water (or filter it) when they are on the Island. All individuals have to get from Point A to Point B--and all have to find a place to stay. (They all encounter the same outhouse spiders as well). We end up sharing many common experiences together when we are on Isle Royale. We become a bit of a "community". I had some great discussions and interactions on each of the 16 days that I was on the Island in 2021. I can't possibly list them all here. Some of my more "unique" 2021 discussions included listening to a three-year-old explain the finer points and nuances of throwing rocks, sand, and sticks in the water (on one end of the continuum)--and discussing people's Ph.D. dissertations (on the other end of the continuum). There were discussions of people's past outdoor hiking and paddling trips -- from short trips in local parks to trips to the Himalayas, Europe, the Appalachian Trail, Yukon River, Pacific Crest Trail, Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Superior Hiking Trail, North Country Trail--and so many others. There were discussions with engineers, bankers, lawyers, doctors, teachers, and nurses. There were also discussions with unemployed persons, retired persons, persons in the service industries, college students, factory workers, farmers, retail store workers, restaurant workers, and self-employed people. I met people who were enjoying their first trip to the Island--all the way up to someone on their 33rd trip to Isle Royale. People talked about life, health, joys, sorrows, illnesses, birthdays, anniversaries, religion, science, hopes, and fears. People discussed "what's for dinner", which outhouse to use (and which to avoid), moose and wolf sightings--as well as talking about seeing beavers, foxes, squirrels (and other critters). We talked about trail conditions, blue-green algae, COVID-19, wildfires, fishing, retirement issues, and job issues. I also had some intense discussions with young people regarding their favorite (and least favorite) subjects in school--and the impending starting dates for the new school year. I accepted two very wonderful dinner invitations. The food was five-star and received an A++++ rating. A Scout group filtered my water for me one day on the trail. People shared snacks--both in camp and along the trail. (I discovered that I have a liking for "Mango Chips"). People offered to share beer, wine, and other alcoholic beverages with me...but I have been in recovery for 40 years and chose to decline those generous offers. (Thank you very much, --everyone-- for sharing food, water snacks, your wisdom--and other things). Other highlights include the "rock" concert and sing-along--held on the rocks at Chippewa Harbor. I found great joy in watching a small group of friends (many of whom had attended an Ivy League school together)--prepare and consume their coffee, tea, and breakfast on the dock at Daisy Farm (on a chilly morning) as they watched the sunrise. There was joy in both seeing and hearing the enthusiasm of children as they showed me their walking sticks, whittling projects, "hiding places" and "forts", and their "Junior Ranger" items. I spent nearly 10 minutes intently listening to a two-year-old--(who was still learning to talk)--as he enthusiastically described things to me. I only understood about a quarter of his words--but his intensity, enthusiasm, and animated nature were captivating as he told his Isle Royale stories. I think that I was most impressed by the people in their 20s and 30s--and by the elementary school students and teenagers. Their joy (and lack of cynicism) was refreshing. It was also great to see these younger generations getting outdoors in the wilderness. They had/have a joy for living that many of us lose as we get "older". Something that was also rather "interesting" this year was my somewhat lack of anonymity. Because I spend FAR TOO MUCH time posting and responding to things on this Facebook forum -- some people recognized me when I was on Isle Royale. I had perfect strangers call me by name. I had people come up to me and ask "are you 'Jon'?" A few people asked me to pose for selfies. Some individuals asked me for advice regarding their current trip. Others just had long discussions with me--like old friends. (Because it seemed like we "knew" each other "forever"--due to seeing each other on Facebook). To everyone that I encountered on this trip--whether it was for a few moments or a few days--I thank you for the experience. It was (and is) greatly appreciated. The people were my favorite part of this year's Isle Royale trip. Who knows, maybe some of the people (that I met this year) will still be a part of my life a decade from now--just like some of the people from my earlier trips. Again, to all the people that I encountered on my trip --thanks! I am attaching a bunch of random photos from this trip--the majority of them will have people somewhere in the photo. I am not going to label most of the photos with more than a few words. (In a day or two, I will post my final trip report regarding my 2021 isle Royale trip). TRIP REPORT 2021 (Part # 3): "THE ART OF THE NAP". For many people, (including myself), a typical Isle Royale day looks something like this: 1) Wake up. 2) Eat food and hydrate. 3) Pack up the stuff at the shelter or campsite. 4) Hike or paddle until late afternoon or early evening. 5) Set up camp. Get water. Cook a meal. 6) Go to sleep. 7) Repeat the same thing tomorrow (and the day after that--and the day after that). I had every intention of following that pattern for my 2021 sixteen-day hiking trip to Isle Royale. I planned to hike about 150+ total miles and see every trail accessible campground on the Island in one trip. (This was my 15th trip to Isle Royale). There were many planned 10 to 16 mile hiking days. HOWEVER, I experienced some significant gastro-intestinal problems on my first full day on the Island (and some symptoms lasted a least a week). So, I changed my plans and hiked only about 40 total miles in 16 days. My typical hiking day was just 4-6 miles in length. At four of the campgrounds, I spent 2-3 nights instead of just one. On many hiking days, I was in camp by late morning or early afternoon. Thus, on this trip, I perfected -- "The Art of the Nap". I also became much more skilled at just "hanging out" and "relaxing". I would invite others to also consider perfecting these wonderful (but seldom utilized) skills. In 2021, utilizing these skills was essentially forced upon me. I felt very ill on my first full day of Isle Royale backpacking in 2021 (The second day of my trip). It took me nearly 9.5 hours to hike the 6.7 miles from McCargoe Cove to Todd Harbor. I was losing bodily fluids in a significant manner (due to my gastro-intestinal challenges). Almost anytime that I sat down to take a break--I ultimately would fall asleep and take an unplanned nap. I probably took about 5-6 unplanned short naps on that first full day (Day # 2 of this year's trip). I made it to Todd Harbor in the late afternoon or early evening, and I felt a bit better than I had felt while on the trail. However, I decided to stay an extra day at Todd Harbor in order to rest, recuperate, and rehydrate. The first night in Todd Harbor, I spent the night sleeping in my camping hammock. The next morning, I moved into a shelter at Todd Harbor. I also got in two naps (2-3 hours in length). I was starting to perfect the "Art of the Nap". It is also amazing how having occasional diarrhea can motivate you to stay close to camp and just "hang out" and "relax". While I DID take some small hikes around the greater Todd Harbor campground (and I did chat with some wonderful people)--I was usually no more than a few minutes away from an outhouse. (In case the diarrhea resumed). The next day, I hiked 4.1 miles to Hatchet Lake. I was there by about midday. I was set up early and had my water filtered. I got inside my camping hammock to test if I had it set up correctly and that it wouldn't slip or fall. I fell asleep during the hammock test--and experienced a couple-hour afternoon nap. Overall, I was starting to feel better, so I hung out and chatted with people a bit more today. For the third day in a row--I was napping, "hanging out", and relaxing. A pattern was developing. The next day, I hiked to West Chickenbone. It was approximately an 8-mile hike (my longest of the trip). It was hot. There were blue-green algae problems at Chickenbone (so I got water at a creek between Hatchet and Chicknbone). I took long breaks and chatted with people along the way--and as I filtered water. I got to West Chickenbone mid-evening. So, no nap happened on that day. The next day, I hiked to Lake Richie. I was there by early afternoon. I was set up fairly early. I chatted with groups and individuals. I took a brief nap--but mostly hung out and relaxed. The next day, I traveled to Chippewa Harbor for a two-day stay. (See Trip Report --Part # 2). I hung out and relaxed with lots of people. I took 2-3 naps. I next spent three wonderful days in a shelter at Moskey Basin. I pretty much relaxed for much of my time there. I chatted with many interesting people. I even accepted a dinner invitation from a wonderful family in the shelter next door. I got in 2-3 naps per day--except on day # 1 at Moskey. On Day # 1, I only had one nap. (After all, I did hike 6.2 miles that first day. I initially set up my hammock at a tent site--and then moved to a shelter and set up again when someone left their shelter in the late afternoon. I only had time for one nap on that first day! ) At Moskey Basin, it was so relaxing being in a shelter by the lakeshore (listening to the waves and wildlife) as I drifted in and out of sleep throughout the three days. I would get up early, watch the sunrise and then eat a light breakfast. I would then go back to sleep. I would get up a couple of hours later and have a second light breakfast or brunch (as I watched beavers and mergansers)--and then I would nap again. I would wander around and talk to people in the middle of the day--then nap once more in the middle or late afternoon. I was becoming a napping machine! Next, I spent two days at Daisy Farm. I had a shelter both nights. I chatted with lots of people at Daisy Farm. I hung out and relaxed for much of the two days. One day, I hiked to Mt. Ojibway. Yet, I managed to squeeze in one nap per day while at Daisy Farm. Napping was now a firmly entrenched habit! On Day # 14 of the trip (full day # 13), I hiked to Three Mile Campground. Once again, I had a shelter. It was a cold and windy day--with some light mist or light rain at times. What could be better on a cold, damp, and dreary day than getting all snug under a down quilt and sleeping for much of the mid to late afternoon? I had finally perfected "The Art of the Nap"! On Day 15 (full Day # 14), I hiked to Rock Harbor early in the morning and was in a Rock Harbor shelter by 8:55 a.m. I hung out and chatted with many people in my nearly 24 hours at Rock Harbor. I had not showered in 15 days. So, I purchased TWO shower tokens. I had the water set about as hot as it would go. So, I had a very HOT and relaxing 10-minute shower. I put on clean clothes and some very comfortable "camp shoes". I had THREE hot meals at the Greenstone Grill. (A great change from my 15 days of trail food). While at Rock Harbor, I had some of the best conversations of my trip. I didn't get a nap that day--but I was now earning my Ph.D. in relaxation and "hanging out". I left the Island the next morning. MORAL OF THE STORY: It is perfectly O.K. to not hike or paddle all day --every day when you are at Isle Royale. Napping, relaxing, and "hanging out" can be some really great Isle Royale pastimes. (Pastimes which are enjoyed by far too few visitors to the Island--because we typically want to stay awake, keep moving, and see as many things as we possibly can in our Isle Royale trips). Frankly, anyone can hike or paddle all day--every day. That is the easy part. It is much more difficult to force oneself to NOT travel all day -- and to just hang out, relax, and nap. I am glad that I perfected those skills at Isle Royale in August 2021. TRIP REPORT 2021: (PART 2)--TWO DAYS AT CHIPPEWA HARBOR (Days 7 & 8 of my 16-day trip). The two days that I spent at Chippewa Harbor Campground (August 20-21, 2021) were among two of the best days that I have spent on Isle Royale in my 15 trips to the Island. It was mostly about the people that I met there-- but it was also about the sights and experiences (and, the naps). I had stayed at (and/or visited) Chippewa Harbor multiple times before and greatly enjoyed it. However, there was just something even more special about my time at Chippewa Harbor this year. I arrived at Chippewa Harbor (from Lake Richie) on the morning of August 20th. I was able to get Shelter # 3. I spent two nights there. Probably within an hour of arriving at Chippewa Harbor, I learned (from two different sources) that Lake Richie had just been added back to the blue-green algae "do not drink from this lake" list. Well, I had spent the previous day at Lake Richie--and I had filtered water from Lake Richie. I had consumed water from Lake Richie. I currently had water from Lake Richie in my water bottles and water storage bladder. So, I spent a considerable amount of time thoroughly cleaning my water filter, cleaning water bottles, and cleaning the water storage bladder. Then, I had to get all new water from Chippewa Harbor--filter it and treat it. (As of the evening of 9/2/2021--I so far seem to have experienced no ill effects from drinking Lake Richie water). At the Chippewa Harbor dock, there was a sailboat (with three generations of a family onboard). There were the parents --who were retirement age. Their adult son was there (a newly graduated Ph.D. recipient), as was the son's wife, and the younger couple's two very young sons. There was also a recreation/ fishing boat moored at the dock. That boat had two couples about my general age (some were older some were younger). They were out hiking when I arrived. (I had met them on the trail as I hiked toward Chippewa Harbor). They came back while I was cleaning my drinking water items and filtering new water. They went swimming. They invited me to swim also. I declined--until I finished the cleaning of my water containers and I had plenty of new filtered water. By the time that I was done with that, they were done swimming. However, I went swimming anyway. The couples had brought floating, foam, "pool noodles" with them on their boat. They told me that I could use the pool noodles if I wanted to use them (and, I did use them). It was a very hot day. The water was warm (by Lake Superior standards). I will turn age 60 in early November. And, here I was, floating around in Chippewa Harbor--with pool noodles--for probably 30-40 minutes. What a surreal experience for a senior citizen backpacker on Isle Royale! About this same time (while I was filtering water)--three sea kayakers arrived. They had paddled to Isle Royale from Minnesota and were now circumnavigating the Island. They really knew their stuff. Just before I arrived, a couple from Illinois had arrived via ferry or water taxi--and they had their canoe with them. (The next day, they would begin canoeing in the area inland lakes). Shortly after my arrival, a hiker from Illinois (about my age) had arrived at Chippewa Harbor. I had met him two days earlier as he passed through the West Chickenbone area. Various other people would come and go over the next two days. I had wonderful discussions with most/all of them. I napped a bit in the early afternoon. In the late afternoon, I took a little hike. I hiked to a little cabin at Chippewa Harbor (nicknamed by some people "The Schoolhouse" because of an abandoned school desk or two in the cabin). It is the Holger and Lucy Johnson Cabin and it has a plaque inside dedicating the cabin to them. I then hiked to the top of the ridge "behind" and above the Chippewa Harbor shelters and campground. There were some very nice views from that ridge. I had some much appreciated alone time and solitude up on this ridge. Late on the first evening, the two couples in the recreation/fishing boat shared freshly caught lake trout with some of the rest of us. Large fillets--grilled and prepared with homemade seasoning rubs and other items. It was an "all the fish that you can eat" situation. One person described it as possibly the best trout that they had ever eaten. I would have to agree. Not a bad way to end Day # 1 of my stay at Chippewa Harbor (and the end of my Week # 1 on the Island for this trip). During the night, I periodically woke up and watched the very bright moon as it "traveled" across the sky from the left side to the right side of the front of my shelter. My second day at Chippewa Harbor included meeting a man who was trying to celebrate his 40th year of life by RUNNING 40+ miles on Isle Royale in one day. He stopped at Chippewa Harbor to get water. We chatted a bit. Interesting man and interesting running goals. (I later learned that the extreme heat and the large number of blue-green algae blooms in the lakes impacted his hydration situation. So, he ran "only" 40+ kilometers instead of 40+ miles. Ultimately, he ran 27 miles on Isle Royale trails that day--which is more than a marathon. Amazing.). I did a side hike to Lake Mason in the early afternoon. (Lake Mason is located is near Chippewa Harbor). I had great solitude --for a while. Then three (or more) other parties came to see Lake Mason also. I am not complaining that others came there. The Park (and all of its various locations) are open to all persons. The presence of others merely changed the nature of my time at Lake Mason. It was still a good time. I got in another nap that afternoon. Then I had dinner. After dinner, I spent time talking to the various people who were staying at the shelters and campsites. Eventually, one of the female sea kayakers got out a ukulele and started playing it. That prompted the son (middle generation) on the sailboat to get out a youth guitar and join her. Soon, we had a 1.5 to 2-hour "concert" and sing-along session on the open and exposed rocky terrain of Chippewa Harbor Campground It lasted until about 15 minutes before quiet hours began. I gave it the name --- "The Rock Concert at Chippewa" (as we were located on the rocks of Chippewa Harbor). Some of the songs included Elvis' "I Can't Help Falling In Love With You"; Camila Cabello's "Havana"; Broadway show tunes; 1950s and 1960s "Doo Wop" songs; Kermit the Frog's "Rainbow Connection"--which I began to hear as a waltz--and I waltzed alone on the rocks at Chippewa Harbor to this song--lol; "Don't Worry ... Be Happy"; small portions of "Rapper's Delight"--by the Sugar Hill Gang); "Proud Mary"--by Tina Turner; "Dock of the Bay"; "Lean on Me"; "The Lion Sleeps Tonight"; "Oh What a Night (December 1963)"; and many others. It was another great night to occasionally watch the moon "travel" across the front of my shelter whenever I woke up. I left Chippewa Harbor the next morning and hiked to Moskey Basin--where I spent THREE days in a shelter on the lake shore. As I hiked out of the long trail to/from Chippewa Harbor--I saw two moose. (I only got acceptable photos of the cow and not the bull). I also saw a fox exploring the waterfront along the portage that is a part of Lake Richie and connects to the Chippewa Harbor Trail. At Chippewa Harbor, I had great discussions with people ranging from age two to people somewhere in their 60s. We discussed sailing, politics, retirement, God, science, the importance of throwing rocks and sticks in the water (a discussion with children), fishing, kayaking, hiking, canoeing the length of the Yukon River, nature, history, Isle Royale, and so many other topics. It was a great two days of discussions. In addition to the great discussions, I napped. I prayed. I had some alone time on a ridge above Chippewa Harbor and at Lake Mason. I saw an old cabin. I ate some of the best trout that I have ever eaten. I participated in a nearly two hour sing-along. I waltzed alone on the rocks to the song "Rainbow Connection". I watched the moon make it's way across the sky. I floated around in Lake Superior on pool noodles. I listened to Sandhill Cranes as they flew overhead. These were among the two best days that I have spent on Isle Royale over the course of 15 trips. Note: I actually do know the names of most/all the people that I encountered. I just chose to not give their names here ... especially without their express permission. I also couldn't talk about every encounter that I had with every person. Space limitations would not permit it. My failure to mention in this post actual names or specific people or certain encounters by no means diminishes the importance and value of the people, the encounters, or the experiences. A post can be only so long. TRIP REPORT # 1 (2021): It was not the trip that I wanted or planned. However, it was probably the trip that I needed. It was my 15th trip to Isle Royale. It was a 16-day solo trip to the Island (August 14-29, 2021). The tentative plan was for me to hike over 150 miles and visit all of the trail-accessible campsites in just one trip. (I have been to all of those campsites multiple times). What ultimately happened, was a 16-day trip, where I probably hiked only about 40 miles--and where I rested and explored a great deal for multiple days at some very nice campsites...(all of them located on the eastern half of the Island). What I originally planned as a trip with lots of hiking--became a trip of mostly rest and relaxation. I now realize that I needed that rest after 18 months of dealing with a world (and my personal work environment) greatly impacted by Covid-19. I got the trip that I NEEDED --and not the trip that I WANTED. DAY # 1: I traveled from Grand Portage, MN to Isle Royale on the Voyager II. I got my permit during a several-minute stop in Windigo. I was dropped off at McCargoe Cove. Because it was already early afternoon, I stayed at McCargoe Cove for the night. However, I did do a day hike all the way around Chickenbone Lake. I was feeling great and hiking strong. DAY # 2: My stomach felt a little "upset" in the morning. I had to use the restroom a couple of times in the morning before starting my hike. I chalked it up to being an "older" individual--and to traveling for two days to get to the Island. I just figured that my sleep and digestive cycles were "out of whack" from the trip and crazy schedule. No big deal. Well, it took me nearly 9.5 hours to hike the 6.7 miles to Todd Harbor. I felt nauseous...I had a stomachache much of the day. I probably set some sort of record for most "catholes" dug in one day. During my hike, I would sit down and rest next to my backpack and fall asleep. I felt dehydrated by the end of the day. I reached Todd Harbor and slept in my hammock. My best guess is that I had picked up some "stomach bug" during my two days of traveling to get to Isle Royale--and it manifested itself once I got to the Island. DAY # 3: Change of plans. Instead of hiking to North Lake Desor Campground via the Minong Ridge Trail (11.4 miles) --I stayed at Todd Harbor--resting, exploring, rehydrating. My stomach was still somewhat upset...and I often stayed near the outhouse. The shelter at Todd Harbor became open and available, so I moved from the hammock to the shelter. Temperatures were very hot (just like they had been on the first two days). Today, I started to contemplate abandoning my plan to hike 150 miles-- and (instead) do a much shorter hike. I would possibly stay on the eastern side of the Island. I would possibly hike short mileages (4-8 miles) and stay 2-3 days at some campgrounds. I was feeling drained and exhausted. Today, I would be active (and feeling somewhat normal) for a few hours at a time--then I would have to take a nap and rest. Day # 4: I got up in the morning and started hiking westward(ish). I would have a big decision to make when I reached the junction where the trail splits to go toward Little Todd Harbor or to Hatchet Lake. Going toward Little Todd meant that I was going to hike the Minong to Windigo (and then hike back to Rock Harbor). Going to Hatchet Lake meant that I was likely going to hike short mileage days--rest for days at a time--and stay on the eastern half of the Island. I spent a long time at the junction debating the decision. (More on that in another post). I was feeling pretty good when I reached the junction--but I was not feeling 100% recovered. I strongly wanted to hike to Little Todd Habor (and almost did). I ultimately went to Hatchet Lake. (It would be over a week before my stomach felt somewhat normal). I spent the night at Hatchet Lake. Hiked 4.1 miles today. Day # 5: I hiked from Hatchet Lake to West Chickenbone. (7.9 miles). Still feeling tired. Hiking slow. Because of the blue-green algae situation at Chickenbone--I picked up water elsewhere. I drank a lot of water today. Probably over 2.5 gallons. It was hot. I still wasn't feeling 100%. Day # 6: I hiked from West Chickenbone to Lake Richie (3.6 miles). What made this day notable, is that I drank water from Lake Richie. When I arrived on the Island, Lake Richie was no longer on the "do not drink from this lake" list (both per the official Isle Royale Website and the ranger that issued me my permit). The early summer blue-green algae bloom had disappeared and the lake had been taken off of the list. So, I drank water from Lake Richie. Well, the next day, hikers and boaters (newly arrived on the island) informed me that Lake Richie had just been put back on the "do not drink from this lake" list--due to blue-green algae bloom. (As of September 1st, I still haven't noticed any ill effects from drinking the Lake Richie water). Day # 7 and Day # 8: I hiked from Lake Richie to Chippewa Harbor (4.3 miles). I had a shelter both nights. I met great people (more about that in a future post). I spent two days exploring the area. I had two of my best days ever on Isle Royale--mostly due to the people that I encountered. Late in the day (on my second day at Chippewa Harbor), I started smelling smoke from the Isle Royale ("Horne") wildfire and I began having some eye irritation and similar symptoms. However, I didn't know what was causing it at this point. I figured that it was just smoke from the fires in Canada and in the Western States and itchy eyes and runny nose caused by my seasonal allergies. Day # 9, Day # 10, Day # 11. I hiked from Chippewa Harbor to Moskey Basin (6.2 miles). Originally, due to overcrowding, I was set up with my hammock at a tent campsite--and I was sharing the site with a person who arrived just moments after me. HOWEVER, someone left their shelter after 4:00 p.m. in the afternoon (which is very unusual). A family (that I had met at the Moskey dock) informed me about the newly vacant shelter--and they helped me obtain that shelter. So, I ultimately spent three glorious days and nights in Shelter # 2 at Moskey Basin ... right on the lakeshore. Again, I met many great people at Moskey Basin. (I will write about that in a post about "people"). Mostly, I spent three days just relaxing, napping, and enjoying the view. Day # 12 and Day # 13: I hiked 3.9 miles from Moskey Basin to Daisy Farm. I had a shelter both nights. I met more great people. I napped. I hiked to the Mount Ojibway fire tower to enjoy the view. I mostly just "hung out" and relaxed for a couple of days. We finally got a bit of rain--but I still did not use my raingear on this trip. Day # 14: I hiked from Daisy Farm to Three Mile Campground (4.4 miles). It was much cooler and very windy. We got a little more rain late in the day and overnight. I stayed in a shelter--located a bit farther back in the woods and not on the lakeshore. (At first, I had a shelter on the lakeshore, but the wind was blowing directly into it. So, I moved). Today, I was physically feeling better than I had previously felt on this entire trip. I even hiked at a speed of over 2 miles per hour. (This was much different than when it took me nearly 9.5 hours to hike 6.7 miles on Day # 2--when I actively had the stomach bug). Day # 15: I hiked from Three Mile to Rock Harbor--via the Tobin Harbor Trail. (About 3.6 miles). I hiked well and "fast". For the first time on this entire trip, I was also finally encountering damp trails and wet foliage--and that dampness caused my clothing to get wet as I walked. (This situation is not at all unusual on a NORMAL Isle Royale trip--but it was very unusual for this very dry year). I got a shelter at Rock Harbor. I took my first shower in over two weeks. I ate a couple of times at the Greenstone Grill. I talked to lots of people. There was a thunderstorm overnight. I went to use the outhouse during the night--and wore my raingear for the first time on this entire trip. I saw the firefighters today. Day # 16: I got up early to get on the Voyager II ferry. The ferry was leaving an hour early due to predicted high waves later in the day. I wore my rain poncho early in the morning. I rode on the Voyager from Rock Harbor to Windigo--and from Windigo to Grand Portage (Minnesota). According to the Captain of the Voyager, some of the waves that we encountered were 8 footers. (I get seasick easily--so it was NOT a fun ride. However, I never vomited). I arrived at Grand Portage in the mid-afternoon. I then started a couple-day journey back to my home in West Central Illinois--with stops to visit relatives along the way. So, I didn't hike 150+ miles nor did I visit all of the trail-accessible campgrounds as I had originally planned. However, I DID get lots of rest and I met many wonderful people. (I only saw six moose). Sometimes, we get the trip that we need --and not the trip that we plan or want. I also encountered a bad stomach virus--(likely picked up on the mainland prior to my arrival on the Island). I experienced very hot weather temperatures and very dry conditions. I drank from a lake with a blue-green algae bloom. I dealt with COVID-19 restrictions and precautions. I was on the Island during a wildfire. And, I rode through 8-foot waves on the trip back from the Island. I will post more photos and more details about specific aspects of the trip in the coming days and weeks. (This will be as my schedule) permits. I was away from home for 20 days--if you include my travel time to and from the Island. Thus, I now have much "catching up" to do at both home and work). The attached photo was taken during sunset at Todd Harbor on Day # 3.  |
AuthorJon Prain ("The Isle Royale Guy"). I have been to Isle Royale 18 times. Archives
August 2022
Categories |
RSS Feed