You Have More Than Three Choices on Isle Royale--You Really Do! The vast majority of people who come to Isle Royale seem to want to do the same three things (and many people advise them to do those same three things). 1) Hike across the Island --using primarily the Greenstone Ridge Trail. 2) Plan their hike around the "dream" of staying at least one night at Moskey Basin. 3) Visit the same 3-5 (overcrowded?) campgrounds on the Eastern (Rock Harbor) end of the Island. (Lane Cove, Three Mile, Daisy Farm, Rock Harbor, Moskey Basin) ---or stay at the Rock Harbor Lodge and housekeeping cabins. There is SO much more to see and do on Isle Royale than just those three things! For your sake --and for other people's sake ---and for the Island's sake--please try something a little different. Let's try to spread out a little bit and add a bit of variety to our Isle Royale trips. My Biases and Preferences I am going to state four of my biases right up front. (I know there are people who will strongly disagree with these comments-- and that is their right). 1. I find hiking across the Island (using primarily the Greenstone Ridge Trail) to be one of the more "underwhelming" and boring hikes on the Island. Except for a few mile section near Mt. Franklin and Mt. Ojibway --there are not a lot of great panoramic views to be seen from along the Greenstone Ridge Trail. (I am not saying there are absolutely no great panoramic views on the Greenstone Ridge Trail outside of that small area--but the other great views on the Greenstone are few and far between). REGARDING THE CAMPGROUNDS ALONG THE GREENSTONE: Personally, I believe that even the "worst" campground on Isle Royale is a far better place to be than most other places on the planet. That being said, if I have the opportunity to skip staying at Island Mine, South Lake Desor, Hatchet Lake--or either of the two Chickenbones -- I try to do so. That is because there are quite a few Isle Royale campgrounds that I like so much better than those that I just mentioned. Let me be clear, I am BY NO MEANS saying to totally avoid these campgrounds and/or avoid the Greenstone Ridge Trail. I am simply saying that there are many other (and, arguably, even better) trails, routes, and campgrounds on Isle Royale. So, don't be in such a rush to automatically want to backpack across the island using primarily the Greenstone Ridge Trail. (A shorter hike--confined to just one side of the Island --can often be a much more satisfying experience than hiking across the Island. So, carefully consider your other options). Here are a couple photos showing some pretty typical views of what you will see for much of your 2-5 days on the Greenstone Ridge Trail. 2. I find Moskey Basin Campground to be PERHAPS "overrated". If you get one of the lakeshore wooden shelters at Moskey Basin--and if the weather is nice-- Moskey Basin is perhaps one of the best campgrounds and best experiences on Isle Royale. However, if you don't get one of those six shelters (or if the weather is hazy, foggy, or rainy), Moskey Basin is (in my never humble opinion) just another (slightly better than average) Isle Royale campground. The views from the tent sites and group sites (which double as an overflow camping area) oftentimes don't permit you to even see the lake from your campsite. And, sometimes, Moskey Basin can be one of the most overcrowded campgrounds on the Island. I am not saying to completely avoid Moskey Basin. However, I certainly would not build my trip around a dream of staying at Moskey Basin. I would also be prepared to perhaps be somewhat disappointed with the "Moskey Basin Experience" if I couldn't get one of the lakeside shelters and had to stay at a crowded "overflow" tent site with no view of the lake. Here are two pictures from Moskey Basin. One was taken standing outside of a shelter on the lakeshore and the other is from a crowded overflow campground--with lots of tents and lots of people and no view of the lake. Which would you prefer? You can see the big difference getting one of the six shelters can make. 3. There Is More to Isle Royale Than Just Five Campgrounds. Many (most?) people (who visit Isle Royale) will stay at just five locations for most (or all) of their trip. Those five places are Rock Harbor (campground, Lodge, or cabins); Three Mile Campground; Daisy Farm Campground; Moskey Basin Campground; and Lane Cove Campground. While there is nothing "wrong" with that--it sure tends to make things overcrowded at those five locations. It also gives someone a fairly limited Isle Royale experience. In the image (below) you will see a map of Isle Royale. Many (or most) people who visit Isle Royale never leave the area in red--or rarely leave the red area. There is so much more to see and do--and it helps everyone--and the Island--if we spread out a bit. 4. Many people lack the physical conditioning (and experience) to hike the entire length of the Minong Ridge Trail. Thus, hiking the entire Minong Ridge Trail is not a safe and wise alternative for many people. LET ME BE CLEAR --- I am not a person who believes that the Minong Ridge Trail is a big scary trail that is (by its nature) an extremely tough and super dangerous trail. HOWEVER, I do firmly believe that a great many visitors to Isle Royale lack the conditioning and outdoor experience necessary to hike the entire Minong Ridge Trail safely and successfully. (NOTE: The section of the Minong Ridge Trail between McCargoe Cove and the junction to Hatchet Lake is o.k. for most --but not all--people. It is easier than the rest of the Minong). In general, the Minong Ridge Trail is very poorly marked. The trail is intentionally poorly maintained. Many people get temporarily "lost" (multiple times) while on the Minong Ridge Trail. Water sources are few and far between. The trail is rocky and has countless ups and downs. It goes through swamps and bogs and over the top of a few wet and muddy beaver dams. Sometimes you have to walk through creeks or over a very twisted and shaky single log. It can sometimes be pretty isolated and lonely on the Minong. (I once went 28 hours on the Minong Ridge Trail without seeing another person). If you become sick or injured, it may be 12-30 hours before help can be contacted and you can be evacuated and arrive at a medical facility. In short, this isn't the place for a person who is out-of-shape or who lacks outdoor skills and experience, or who is not able to be completely self-sufficient in the wilderness (even when injured or ill). Thus, if you want to do something "different" while on Isle Royale--for many people hiking the entire Minong Ridge Trail is NOT a good alternative --given their conditioning, experience level, and navigational abilities. I will include some Minong Ridge Trail photos below (Click to enlarge). These are all pictures of the actual trail and not scenery. TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT! Instead of doing the same things that many other people are doing---maybe try something different (different than what the crowds are doing and/or different than what you may have done on different trips). For more information regarding each of these ideas, you can contact me directly (either via private Facebook message or email: [email protected]); or you visit my personal Isle Royale website theisleroyalguy.com and look at all of the information pages and the helpful links page on my site; or (as always) you can visit the Official National Park Service Isle Royale website. (Click here) HERE ARE JUST SOME POSSIBLE IDEAS: 1. If you tend to stay at the Lodge and/or cabins--consider getting into the backcountry and doing some backpacking, paddling, and/or camping. 2. If you tend to stay in the backcountry (camping, hiking, and paddling)--consider staying at the Lodge or a cabin --for at least one night. (Note: They Lodge rooms and cabins are already mostly booked for 2024--you would have to check frequently for a cancellation and hope to be the lucky one who times things right and gets the vacated room or cabin. You can start booking a year in advance). 3. If you are a usually a backpacker--consider doing a canoe or kayak trip. If you are typically a paddler, consider a backpacking trip. 4. If you tend to stay on the East (Rock Harbor) end of the Island--consider a trip to the West (Windigo) end (and vice-versa). 5. There are several ways to get to/from the Island. Try using one that you haven't tried before. A) The Ranger III ferry (Houghton Michigan). B) The Isle Royale Seaplanes (Hancock, Michigan and Grand Marais, Minnesota). C) The Voyager II and Sea Hunter III ferries (Grand Portage, Minnesota). D) The Isle Royale Queen IV ferry (Copper Harbor, Michigan). E) Charter trips with private companies (there are backpacking outfitters and guides, private transport and tour companies, sailing charters, fishing charters, scuba diving charters, youth camps that make trips to the Island, etc. (Click here for the currently published official list. New ones might not have been added yet to the website list). F) A person can use their own private boat--and they may even be able to transport it to the Island on the Ranger III---or pilot it to the Island across Lake Superior. Again, try something different than what you have done in the past--but always do so legally and safely 6. Instead of starting your actual backpacking or paddling at either Rock Harbor or Windigo --consider using a water taxi or the Voyager II (or maybe even a private charter boat) to either drop you off and/or pick you up at some other location on the Island than at Rock Harbor or Windigo. Some examples: Be dropped off at a place like Chippewa Harbor or Malone Bay and backpack to Rock Harbor (or maybe backpack from the drop off point to Windigo). A friend and I (and a canoe) were dropped off by the Voyager II at McCargoe Cove--and we paddled and portaged our way back to Rock Harbor. Be dropped off at McCargoe Cove and hike to Chippewa Harbor or Malone Bay and be picked up there. There are many ways to mix and match the available drop off and pick up locations. You don't have to only start at Rock Harbor or Windigo. Be creative! 7. IF YOU ARE IN GOOD PHYSICAL SHAPE AND HAVE GOOD BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING, NAVIGATION, AND WILDERNESS SELF-SUFFICIENCY EXPERIENCE -- maybe consider backpacking the length of the Minong Ridge Trail. 8. Backpack the Feldtmann Loop and/or Huginnin Loop trails. 9. I want to list this particular option once again--as its own separate item. Consider using one of the many commercial guide, tour, and/or adventure services who have permits from the National Park Service to do business with park visitors The official published list is here. (Click here.) (Sometimes it takes a few months for newly approved entities to make it to the list on the website) 10, Create itineraries that take you away from the usual 4-6 typical campgrounds used by so many people. I --and other people --can perhaps help you plan an itinerary that fits your situation. 11. Plan longer trips--so that you have more time to get to places other than just the typical ones located close to the main transportation docks (in Windigo and Rock Harbor). Short trips (4-6 days or less) limit how far you can venture from the major transportation docks. 12. Consider renting a boat, canoe, or kayak for the day in Windigo or Rock Harbor. 13. Take a tour on the MV Sandy--a tour boat operating out of Rock Harbor. Visit places (via the Sandy) that you can't hike to (unless you can walk on water). Just remember--backpackers and paddlers can also rent watercraft for the day at the marinas and/or take a tour on the Sandy. These amenities are NOT just for Lodge and cottage guests. 14. Instead of hiking across the Island using JUST the Greenstone Ridge Trail--find ways to "spice up" that cross Island hike--by getting off of the Greenstone Ridge Trail periodically and detour through other (more interesting?) places for a day or two. Maybe see a part (or all) of the Feldtmann Loop as part of your hike across the Island. Maybe drop down to Malone Bay, or Chippewa Harbor, or Moskey Basin --instead of staying solely on the Greenstone Ridge Trail. Perhaps, leave the Greenstone Ridge Trail and (in either direction) hike on the easier section of the Minong Ridge Trail that lies between the Hatchet Lake Junction and McCargoe Cove. (And, stay at Todd Harbor and McCargoe Cove instead of Hatchet Lake and the Chickenbones). Maybe visit Lane Cove. BOTTOM LINE: Do more than just hike on the Greenstone Ridge Trail as you cross the Island. See some other places and other trails. Take a couple more days for your journey and stay at a couple of campgrounds other than just those located on (or near) the Greenstone Ridge Trail. Spice it up! 15. If you are very skilled with remote wilderness camping and are good with traveling cross-country through thick ground cover using a map and compass (never bring and use JUST a GPS system)--you might perhaps consider doing some cross-country (i.e. off-trail) hiking and camping on Isle Royale. (I personally think you should have also been to Isle Royale at least 2-3 previous times before attempting cross country camping and hiking on the Island). The terrain is slow and difficult to navigate. There is much thick underbrush and numerous obstacles. You may encounter large swamps and bogs. There are many rules to follow and special permitting needed (See here). However, you will have great solitude and perhaps see places few other people will see. Again, I can't stress enough, this is "expert" level stuff--not beginner or "first-timer" (on Isle Royale) stuff. Heck, it is easy enough to sometimes get disoriented or "lost" just stepping off of the trail a couple hundred feet in order to go to the bathroom. Cross country hiking and camping takes that "risk" to a significantly higher level. CONCLUSIONThere are many ways to enjoy Isle Royale, Thus, please don't stick to the same 3-4 ideas. Find ways to spread out and see new things! Again, if you want some free help planning your trip--reach out to me via a Facebook private message or email me at [email protected]
1 Comment
John Craun
1/10/2024 10:08:51 am
Great post Jon.
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Jon Prain ("The Isle Royale Guy") has made 18 trips to Isle Royale. He shares his insights and opinions in this blog. Archives
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