 Isle Royale weather is extremely unpredictable. Come prepared for almost all types of weather. Then...ENJOY! "What will the weather be like June 12-17th?" On a fairly regular basis, people post questions in online forums, asking what the Isle Royale weather will be like during the specific dates of their planned trip. (They will also ask what the "bugs" will be like during specific dates). How in the world can anyone know the answers to those two questions? Think about the town where you currently live. Can you tell me (on March 16th) what the weather will be like in that location during the 4th Week of July 2023? Will it be hot? Cold? Rainy? Will there be any severe storms? Will you encounter any flies, spiders, or mosquitos during that week? In the same way that you cannot make accurate predictions regarding the weather in your hometown on the 4th Week of July -- neither can anyone consistently, and accurately, tell you what the weather (and "bugs") will be like on Isle Royale four months from now. The Isle Royale Weather is VERY Unpredictable! In the area where you reside, I suspect that people routinely make comments and jokes regarding how inaccurate the weather forecasts can be. (The weather forecaster says that it will be sunny and dry tomorrow-- with high temperatures in the low 80s. Then, tomorrow arrives, and it ends up being cloudy, rainy--with high temperatures in the low 60s). If you think that the weather forecasts in your home area tend to be inaccurate and unpredictable, please note that the weather forecasts --for Isle Royale and Lake Superior-- tend to be much more unpredictable and changeable than they are in most people's home areas. ALWAYS REMEMBER: ISLE ROYALE WEATHER CAN CHANGE QUICKLY, DRAMATICALLY, AND WITH LITTLE ADVANCE WARNING! BE PREPARED FOR THAT POSSIBILITY. I do personally check the various weather forecasts for Isle Royale (and for the greater Isle Royale area) as my trips approach. However, it has been my personal experience, that the weather forecasts are probably incorrect as often (or even more often) than they are accurate. This is especially true for the forecasts more than 24-48 hours out. COME PREPARED FOR "EVERYTHING" When planning their Isle Royale trip, many people tend to look at the recent Isle Royale weather forecasts (and look at the "typical" or "average" Isle weather for that time of the year) and then pack accordingly. I STRONGLY DISAGREE WITH THIS APPROACH! I tend to look at the official RECORD low temperatures and official RECORD high temperatures for that time of the year. I then acknowledge the harsh reality that the UNOFFICIAL highs and UNOFFICIAL lows are even more extreme than the official highs/lows. I then come to the Island fully-prepared to potentially face NEW (unofficial) record low/high temps. I don't care if the average (OFFICIAL) low temperature in August is 52 degrees and the official record low is 34 degrees. I am going to come prepared for overnight lows in the mid to upper 20s. I am also coming prepared to hike in daytime highs in the upper 30s or low 40s all the way up to the mid-90s or higher. I often achieve this level of preparation through layering and mixing and matching a rather small number of clothing items. I certainly don't bring 20 different jackets and 15 changes of clothing in order to address the various weather scenarios. It is entirely possible to be well-prepared for a wide range of weather conditions--and NOT pack the contents of your entire closet. Here is a chart (allegedly) showing the OFFICIAL "average" and "record" temps for Isle Royale. Please note that the UNOFFICIAL record temperatures will likely be several degrees lower or higher than these official highs and lows. EXAMPLE: The "official" record low for August may be 34 degrees--but I have UNOFFICIALLY seen my own thermometer read 28 degrees in August. I have also had water --that was left in a cooking pot overnight-- freeze in August).  Expect That You Will Get Wet--and Be Prepared For it! I tell people to always expect to get very wet on Isle Royale--and to always come prepared to deal with extreme wetness and precipitation. (Then, give thanks and rejoice if everything stays relatively dry). On Isle Royale, you are almost constantly surrounded by water. Lake Superior is the world's largest freshwater lake. And, Isle Royale is an island that sits in the midst of it. Isle Royale has many inland lakes, creeks, streams, ponds, bogs, and swamps. The humidity levels can sometimes be very high. The morning dew can be extremely heavy--and cover EVERYTHING with wetness. Trails often have places which are covered with water or mud. On top of this, you also have the possibility of rainfall during your trip. Whether because of recent rain (or because of heavy early morning dew) the thick and tall foliage that envelopes many of the Isle Royale trails can be very wet. And, that wet foliage will transfer that wetness onto you as you walk through it. I have been thoroughly soaked from head-to-toe while walking through some dew-covered trails. Some people even choose to do their very early morning hiking while wearing rain gear --because of the heavy dew and excessive (and wet) foliage that encroaches upon the trails. With so much wetness--in so many different forms--in so many places--the chances are pretty good that you (and your footwear, clothing, and gear) could become very wet at some point during your Isle Royale trip. Therefore, it is advisable, to come to the Island prepared to encounter that degree of wetness and humidity -- in terms of your clothing, your footwear, your tent (or other form of shelter), your electronic devices, and your other gear. Remember--the temperatures may also get very cold--so hypothermia is also a risk. BE PREPARED! An Extreme Rain Story: One year, I was doing a 10-day hike on Isle Royale. Just as I finished my evening meal on Day # 2 (and at West Chickenbone Campground) it started to rain. It rained all through the night. It was raining when I woke up the next morning (Day # 3 of my trip) . I packed up all of my gear in the midst of a heavy rainstorm. It then rained (hard) all through the day while I hiked. It was also cold and windy. I reached my planned destination (Hatchet Lake) shortly after midday. I decided to not stop. Instead, I chose to keep walking (in order to help me stay warm) and in hope that the rain would stop and I would not have to set up camp in the rain. I reached South Lake Desor in the very late afternoon. It was still raining. It was still windy and cold--and I was getting close to being hypothermic. I set up camp in the rain. I also prepared and ate my third consecutive meal in the rain. I went to bed while it was still raining. It rained all night. I packed up in the rain the next morning (Trip Day # 4). Breakfast was prepared and eaten in the rain. I hiked all morning in the rain. I ate lunch in the rain. (This was my fifth consecutive meal in the rain). In the early afternoon, it finally stopped raining--but it didn't really matter. The trails were mostly water and mud. The foliage along the trails was soaked. Water was continually falling off of the trees --and I was soaked (both from my own perspiration inside of my rain gear and from the rainwater that had been "everywhere" for roughly the past 42 hours). When I reached Windigo (Washington Creek Campground)--some gracious people offered to let me share their wooden shelter and to dry out for the next 24-48 hours. Everyone that I encountered was wet. It didn't matter what clothing, footwear, rain gear, or tent that they had. There is simply no way to stay completely dry (in the outdoors) in the midst of 42 hours of continual rain (and after nearly another day of water falling off of leaves and the ground being saturated--with standing water in many places). In such conditions, you will get wet. The only questions are--how wet will you, your clothing, and gear be-- and will it create a potentially dangerous scenario? Are you prepared to deal with that degree of wetness if it were to happen during your trip? Could you keep your sleeping bag--and some clothes--dry enough to help you ward off hypothermia? Heat and Hydration Heat injuries and dehydration are very real possibilities on Isle Royale--even on days that are cloudy and not extremely warm. This is especially true when hiking on the open and exposed ridges and when out on the open lakes in a boat, canoe, or kayak. Many people report drinking far more water than they anticipated while on Isle Royale...or they report that they wished that they had carried much more water. (When hiking, this water "problem" is compounded by the fact that water if often difficult to acquire on the Isle Royale trails). On a map, a water source may APPEAR to be close to the trail--but (in reality) it might be nearly impossible to reach (or it will be so smelly and putrid that you won't want to try to filter it). Thus, be sure to be carrying plenty of water with you when you leave camp in the morning. I typically carry 2-3 liters of water when I depart camp. Some people carry more--some people carry less. Some Weather-Related Links
1 Comment
 This week, I want to discuss some ways to increase your chances of seeing moose. I also want to share some of my moose photos and tell some stories of my own encounters with Isle Royale moose. NOTE: The photos were taken with zoom features on the camera. I did not get overly close to the moose in these photos. (Click the photos to enlarge them) No Guarantee You Will See Moose Let me share a harsh reality. There is no guarantee that you will see any moose during your Isle Royale visit. Many people DO see moose while visiting Isle Royale. However, there are also many people who DON'T see any moose. Isle Royale is not a zoo. The moose are not kept in cages or other enclosures to make it easier for you to view them. Isle Royale is not a circus. The moose do not put on shows at specified times and locations. Seeing one (or more) moose on Isle Royale is a totally random event. A moose encounter happens when you (and the moose) just happen to be in the same general area at the same time. It is primarily all about "luck". Increase Your Chances of Seeing Moose Time and Location Theoretically, you can see moose at just about any location on the Island and at any time of the day. That being said, the large majority of moose encounters probably happen in the early morning hours and in the evening hours. Many of the encounters also seem to happen within a half mile of a water source. And, as silly as it may sound, the Rock Harbor and Windigo areas seem to have more than their fair share of moose encounters. (In part, this is because more people are in those locations. Thus, more people are present to see the moose. Also, wolves tend to stay away from people. Thus, the moose sometimes like to be close to populated places --like Rock Harbor and Windigo -- because the wolves tend to stay away from these heavily human-populated areas. I have seen many moose early in the morning--as I am often one of the earlier persons to hit the trails. Thus, I encounter moose who are still asleep near the trail (who jump up and flee when they hear/smell me coming). Sometimes, in the early morning, I stumble upon moose who are casually eating leaves and plants. Washington Creek Campground (Windigo) often has moose in the the creek at some point during the day. (I have seen them most often between 6:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m. Eastern Time. However, I have probably encountered them at just about all hours of the day and night). Encountering them in Washington Creek is especially true the later you get in the season -- when more plant life is growing in the creek. The main "roads" in the Rock Harbor area (around the cabins and campground) seem to be areas where moose sometimes frequent. Feldtmann Lake Campground also seems to have a somewhat elevated amount of moose sightings. Sound and Scent Issues--Especially Sound The moose can smell you and hear you. Thus, be aware of your odors. Also, be especially aware of the amount of sound and noise that you make. The more odors that you have, the more that the moose will know you are there. Try to keep your natural body odor to a minimum. Also, odors from things like deodorant, perfume, and cologne can alert the moose to your presence. Other odors that the moose seem to notice include coffee, cigarette smoke, marijuana smoke, vaping smells, soap, petroleum-based fuels, etc. The moose will very likely smell you as you approach--particularly the more odors that you have. Odors can lower your chance of seeing moose. In my opinion, sound issues cause far more problems than odors when it comes to trying to encounter moose. I can't stress enough that many visitors to Isle Royale are just "too darn noisy" as they come down the trail (or as they operate their watercraft). They are talking to companions and/or they are playing music and podcasts through the speakers on their cellphones and other devices. They have numerous things hanging from their packs that rattle and "clank" with each step that they take. The sound of their trekking poles (or paddles) coming into contact with various surfaces can be very loud. I have been sitting down along a trail (taking a break) and I have sometimes heard people approaching for 5 to 15 minutes (or more) before they reach my location. If an old guy (with 61 year old ears) can hear you 15 minutes before you arrive--imagine what a moose (with super-sensitive ears) can hear. It is important to reduce your noise level if you wish to increase your chances of encountering moose. Being Alert If you wish to see moose, it helps if you stay alert and are looking for moose and listening for them. I have frequently encountered people on the trails (and on the waterways) that are primarily focused on getting to their next destination...and little else seems to matter to them. They are moving fairly quickly. Their heads are down (looking at the trail) as they hike (or they are looking at the water--or looking straight ahead at a point on the horizon) while paddling. They are not paying attention to what is off to their left or right. They are not listening for sounds. They are talking--or they have their earbuds in place. They are "zoning out" as they hike or paddle. A moose could be 30 feet off to their left and they might miss it--because they are not paying attention. To see (or hear) a moose--it certainly helps to be looking for moose (and listening for them). When you reach an open area--perhaps at a pond, bog, a small lake, or maybe at a small field or meadow -- I invite you to pause for a moment. Take time to look around. Scan the area for signs of wildlife. Listen for sounds. Don't just rush past the open area --giving it no attention. I invite you to actively look for wildlife and actively listen for wildlife. SOME OF MY "SCARY" MOOSE ENCOUNTERS My Very First Moose Encounter On my first Isle Royale trip, I was alone and approaching North Lake Desor campground. I had already left the Minong Ridge Trail and was hiking the spur trail to the campground. It had been a long hike from Windigo. I was tired. I was thirsty. I REALLY had to go to the bathroom. I couldn't wait to take off my pack, go to the bathroom, drink some water--and start setting up camp. Then, I encountered a cow moose and her calf (see the two photos above of a cow and a cow and calf). The cow was on one side of the trail and the calf was on the other side of the trail. There was no way that I was going to walk between a cow and a calf. Thus, I stayed close to some trees and watched the cow and calf. They never got more than 20 feet away from the trail as they casually ate. This went on for over 30 minutes. So, for 30 minutes, I stood there watching the cow and calf. At one level, that was a wonderful experience watching two moose for over 30 minutes. However, my "heavy" pack was still on my back. My bowels and bladder were bursting. The longer I stood there--the later it was getting (and setting up camp was getting pushed back later and later). Finally, after more than a half hour, the cow and calf moved on and I was able to get to the North Desor campground. The Boardwalk to Chippewa Harbor I was hiking to Chippewa Harbor campground. On that trail, there is a very long (elevated) boardwalk that is built over swampy land and over water for much of its distance. It is sometimes 2-3 feet above the water. The boardwalk has some twists and turns. I was walking on this 12-inch wide boardwalk with a pack on my back. As I came around a curve, I startled a large bull moose that had been eating plants in the water. He was in front of me and to my right. I was 2-3 feet above the water--standing on a 12-inch boardwalk. The moose panicked. He was standing in the water. The elevated boardwalk blocked his path on one side. On the other side there were thick clumps of trees blocking his path. I was sort of in front of him (on the curve of the boardwalk) and the path behind him was partially blocked by trees--but other areas behind him were partially open. The moose started running around in circles--confused as to where to go. First, he ran in my direction (which scared me). He realized I was there--so he turned toward the boardwalk. He saw that route blocked by the boardwalk. He then turned the other direction--and found his way blocked by trees. He started running forward--and remembered I was there. Then--he turned back toward the boardwalk. Then, he went back toward the trees. After 2-3 rounds of this type of panic, he finally found an opening behind him and he galloped out of there at a fast pace. Remember, this big bull moose was in water. So, all of this running and turning around in circles was amplified by the big splashing sounds that he was making in the water. And, there I was, with a pack on my back. Standing 2-3 feet above the water on a 12-inch board. I was watching this (large) startled bull moose running every possible direction (including running toward me). Interesting times! My Mistake I was hiking between East Chickenbone and McCargoe Cove. As I came down a hill toward a boardwalk and a watery area, I saw that a cow and calf were out in the water eating plants, They were "close" to the boardwalk--but I figured that they were far enough away for me to walk through the area safely. The moose were also looking the other way and paying no attention to me as I approached the boardwalk. Plus, there was a beaver dam and large beaver lodge that would be between me and moose for some of the time that I was on the boardwalk. (It would conceal me as walked). Thus, I decided that the moose were far enough away and it was safe for me to walk across the boardwalk. The cow and calf never even looked at me as I started across the boardwalk. I eventually started to pass behind the large beaver lodge (while still on the boardwalk). I could no longer see the moose in the water because the beaver lodge blocked everything. I then heard some walking in the water. It sounded like the moose were walking away. Thus, I figured that my situation was improving. I was wrong. Mama moose was NOT walking away. She (and baby) had actually walked TOWARD the boardwalk. As I finished walking past the beaver lodge (and as I could see the water and the moose again)--I looked toward the water. Mama and baby were NOT farther away. Mama was now only 15 to 20 feet from the boardwalk. She was now fully aware of my presence and she was NOT happy that I was there. Her body language and snorting made that very apparent. I practically flew off the final feet of that boardwalk and positioned myself behind some trees. Mama moose paced back and forth--20 to 30 feet away from me--pawing and snorting all the while. I stayed frozen in fear behind the trees. Finally, mom and baby each gave out calls to each other--and mom finally left me and went back to her baby. I was terrified. I have seen many moose over the years. I try to be very careful around moose and other wildlife. This time, I misjudged the situation and I misjudged the distances--and it almost resulted in injury to me. The Hammock Situation I was at North Lake Desor campground, sleeping in my hammock. (The hammock had bug netting and a tarp). As I shifted positions in the middle of the night, I was somewhat awake. I started hearing a loud "crashing" sound moving through the woods. (That noise definitely caused me to wake up!). It quickly became apparent that the noise was a moose galloping through the woods. Initially, the sound was far away. However, it soon grew closer and closer. As the sound grew closer, it was clear that this galloping moose was heading toward my campsite. (My campsite was located right between where the sound was coming from and Lake Desor. My guess is that the moose was heading to the water to eat and drink--and to avoid predators). It soon seemed very apparent that my hammock was probably right in the moose's pathway. I began to brace myself for what seemed like an inevitable collision. Then, when the moose was probably 20-30 feet from my hammock. The galloping sound abruptly came to a complete halt. Maybe the moose saw my camp--or more likely it smelled my camp or heard me. All I know is that I was VERY happy that the galloping sound had stopped--and that the moose slowly walked away--and eventually entered the lake elsewhere. (I could hear it walking and eating in the water) I will conclude this week's blog post with more moose photos.  One of the best things about a trip to Isle Royale is the fact that you can meet some really great people (if you are open to that). Some of these people can even become your good friends. Thus, I would encourage everyone--even those introverts who come to Isle Royale for solitude -- to spend at least some time interacting with other people while visiting Isle Royale. Leave me Alone! I understand the desire to have solitude while on Isle Royale. By nature, I am an EXTREME introvert. However, in my professional life over the years (pastor of a congregation, military officer and chaplain, small-town mayor, and certified substance abuse counselor), I have always had to outwardly function as an extreme EXTROVERT. (And, the introvert part of me just "hates" that!). As an extreme INTROVERT, being with people for long periods of time drains me and exhausts me. One of the big reasons that I come to Isle Royale once or twice each year-- is to be alone. I leave my wife and kids at home and I travel to the Island ---alone. I get nearly 10-12 hours of being alone in my car while driving to the ferry or seaplane and another 10-12 hours of being alone on the drive back home. When I am at Isle Royale, I usually hike alone. I usually camp alone. I typically like to be alone on Isle Royale--in order to reflect, to pray, and to simply "recharge my batteries". We introverts don't usually "hate" other people--but we really DO need our time alone in order to rebuild our energy. One time (during a peak season on Isle Royale) I somehow managed to go for 28 consecutive hours of hiking and camping on the Minong Ridge Trail without seeing another person. That extremely rare situation --28 hours with no human contact (during peak season)--was GLORIOUS! I, as much as anyone, understand the need and desire to be alone while on Isle Royale. Yet, There Are Many Great People on Isle Royale! Every year, several thousand very interesting and delightful people come to Isle Royale between April and October. Some of them come to Isle Royale to work. Others are a part of families that have been coming to Isle Royale for generations. The biggest percentage make the journey across Lake Superior just to visit the Island for a brief while. Whatever their reason for coming to Isle Royale, the vast majority of them have had some very interesting life experiences and they have great stories to tell. Spending too much time alone (and going out-of-your-way to avoid everyone) can cause you to miss out on experiencing one of the greatest things that Isle Royale has to offer --encounters with these really great people --and hearing their interesting stories. (Sometimes, you may even meet people who eventually become your friends). Finding the Balance I have had to find ways to balance my need/desire to be alone in the wilderness--with the reality that it is impossible to be absolutely alone (for very long) in a National Park. I have also learned to embrace the reality that many of the people (that I might encounter on Isle Royale) have some great life experiences to share (and that my life is better for having met them). What works well for me, is I try to obtain significant time alone while I am hiking on the trail (or while paddling on the water). For the most part, you can actually spend quite a bit of time not encountering other people on the trails and waterways of Isle Royale. On the occasions, when I do encounter other people, I can be very friendly, polite, and pleasant--spend 30 seconds to a couple of minutes sharing information about trail conditions and what lies head--and then go back to enjoying my own solitary way. During an 8 hour hike, it is very easy to spend all but about 15 minutes of that time alone--but still be pleasantly engaged with the people that I encounter on the trail. Even if I spend 30 minutes (out of 8 hours) chatting with folks on the trail or on the water--I still have had 7.5 hours of time alone. That's a huge percentage of time to myself. Even when am hiking or paddling with other people (which I sometimes do) --that doesn't mean that we have to be actively "engaged" with each other all of the time while we hike or paddle. It is entirely possible to hike or paddle in silence--and just enjoy what the Island has to offer and enjoy being in the other person's presence. A six hour hike (or six hour paddle) does not HAVE to be a six-hour non-stop conversation. With most of my hiking partners, we don't actually even hike "together". They hike at their pace and I hike at my pace--and we meet at a couple of designated checkpoints during the hiking day to make sure that each other are O.K. (We also share a campsite and spend considerable time together in camp). We are alone ... together. I also tend to find time to be alone--by typically having my own separate tent, hammock, or tarp when I am on trips with other people. Even when I am traveling with other people, it is still pretty easy for me to spend 16+ hours (each day) alone or in silence. Docks, Filtering Water, Campfires, Ferries Some of the best places to interact with other people are at locations where people congregate to filter water. This may along a shoreline. It may be at a dock. (Docks, in general, tend to be great gathering places where conversations occur). Some campgrounds have a communal fire ring--and someone may have a fire going for everyone to enjoy. People (in neighboring campsites) sometimes engage in conversations while someone's dinner is simmering. Conversations also tend to happen on the ferry rides to and from the Island. I have enjoyed many great conversations at all of these types of places. It has been my experience, that conversations (which start between complete strangers--in the above locations) can often result in further conversations breaking out as you encounter the same people later in the same day or later in the same trip. There are also people that you encounter again-and-again on multiple trips to Isle Royale over a period of years. Sharing Campsites/Shelters (and August 2010) Sometimes, overcrowded conditions (or bad weather) will "force" you to share tent sites--or cause someone to offer to share a shelter with other people. As a severe introvert, I sort of "cringe" at such scenarios (because I like my privacy). However, I will admit, that every instance (on Isle Royale) where I have shared a tent site or shelter--has turned out just fine. At worst, it was a "neutral" experience and (at best) it has created relationships where I am still in contact with some people 12+ years after sharing a campsite. The people have all been interesting and they have all had great life stories to share. I could write multiple blog posts about the interesting people that I have meet through sharing tent sites and shelters on Isle Royale. One such experience does stand out far above the others. In August 2010, due to overcrowding, I ended up sharing a tent site at Feldtmann Lake with two guys in their 20s. (I would soon turn age 49 and I was hiking solo). We were eventually joined in the campsite by a young woman in her 20s. That night, the young men were going to Rainbow Cove to watch the sunset--and the young woman and I were invited to join them. We chatted for 2-3 hours on the beach at Rainbow Cove. We watched the sun go down in front of us and the full moon rise behind us. We intentionally walked back to Feldtmann Lake using only the moonlight (we kept our flashlights turned off). After leaving Feldtmann Lake the next morning, I ran into the young men as they took a lunch break at Siskiwit Bay--and the young woman and I both stayed at Siskiwit Bay campground the next night--at separate campsites, For some reason (maybe to share some photos) I had contact information for each of them. I have stayed in touch with them and even became Facebook friends with each of them. It has now been 12+ years since we shared that campsite at Feldtmann Lake. In addition to occasional Facebook contact, I have also run into each of them (totally unplanned) on Isle Royale at various other times. They were each single and "child-free" when I first met them at Feldtmann Lake in 2010. They now all have young children. (Seven children between them). My own two children are now adults. In several more months, I will become eligible to receive Social Security. With the two young men, I have actually had planned trips to Isle Royale with each of them (separately). In 2016, I hiked the Minong Ridge Trail with one of the young men and his wife. In 2019, I also hiked the Feldtmann Loop with him, his wife, and his father-in-law. (We are all in the photo at the top of this article posing at the Windigo sign). With the other young man, I (a pastor) was invited to officiate at his Isle Royale wedding on the Windigo dock in 2018. (He had met his future bide on the Windigo dock. He proposed to her on the Windigo dock. They got married on the Windigo dock). I happened to run into him on the trip when he met the woman and I was on the same ferry back to the mainland with him and his fiancee--just moments after he had proposed. Totally unplanned encounters. IRONY: On the day that he and his bride-to-be were arriving on Isle Royale for their Windigo wedding--the young woman (with whom we had shared the Feldtmann campsite back in 2010) was also at the Windigo dock--getting on a ferry to depart the Island. It is a small world. The Rock Concert at Chippewa In 2021, I spent two nights at Chippewa Harbor. I could write multiple blog posts about those two days and the people that I encountered at Chippewa Harbor. We were a very diverse group of people--sea kayakers, a three generation family with a sail boat, a couple of hikers, three couples on a recreational fishing boat. (They prepared a roasted lake trout meal for me that was PHENOMENAL!). One night, one of the sea kayakers got out her ukulele and some song sheets. One of the folks on the sailboat got out a small guitar. For about two hours, a small group of us had an impromptu concert and sing-a-long on the big rocky area at Chippewa Harbor. We sang children's songs, campfire songs, and Top 40 classics from roughly five decades. Some of the songs included Elvis' "I Can't Help Falling In Love With You"; Camila Cabello's "Havana"; Broadway show tunes; 1950s and 1960s "Doo Wop" songs; Kermit the Frog's "Rainbow Connection"--which I began to hear as a waltz--and I waltzed alone on the rocks at Chippewa Harbor to this song--lol; "Don't Worry ... Be Happy"; small portions of "Rapper's Delight"--by the Sugar Hill Gang); "Proud Mary"--by Tina Turner; "Dock of the Bay"; "Lean on Me"; "The Lion Sleeps Tonight"; "Oh What a Night (December 1963)"; and many others. The "Rock Concert at Chippewa" was a great night. CONCLUSION: A 2021 TRIP REPORT STATEMENT Probably the best way to wrap up this blog post is to share the following passages from my August 2021 Isle Royale trip report:
I had some great discussions and interactions on each of the 16 days that I was on the Island in 2021. I can't possibly list them all here. Some of my more "unique" 2021 discussions included listening to a three-year-old explain the finer points and nuances of throwing rocks, sand, and sticks in the water (on one end of the continuum)--and discussing people's Ph.D. dissertations (on the other end of the continuum). There were discussions of people's past outdoor hiking and paddling trips -- from short trips in local parks to trips to the Himalayas, Europe, the Appalachian Trail, Yukon River, Pacific Crest Trail, Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Superior Hiking Trail, North Country Trail--and so many others. There were discussions with engineers, bankers, lawyers, doctors, teachers, and nurses. There were also discussions with unemployed persons, retired persons, persons in the service industries, college students, factory workers, farmers, retail store workers, restaurant workers, and self-employed people. I met people who were enjoying their first trip to the Island--all the way up to someone on their 33rd trip to Isle Royale. People talked about life, health, joys, sorrows, illnesses, birthdays, anniversaries, religion, science, hopes, and fears. People discussed "what's for dinner", which outhouse to use (and which to avoid), moose and wolf sightings--as well as talking about seeing beavers, foxes, squirrels (and other critters). We talked about trail conditions, blue-green algae, COVID-19, wildfires, fishing, retirement issues, and job issues. I also had some intense discussions with young people regarding their favorite (and least favorite) subjects in school--and the impending starting dates for the new school year. I accepted two dinner invitations during this trip. I spent nearly 10 minutes intently listening to a two-year-old--(who was still learning to talk)--as he enthusiastically described things to me. I only understood about a quarter of his words--but his intensity, enthusiasm, and animated nature were captivating as he told his Isle Royale stories. To everyone that I encountered on this trip--whether it was for a few moments or a few days--I thank you for the experience. It was (and is) greatly appreciated. The people were my favorite part of this year's Isle Royale trip. Who knows, maybe some of the people (that I met this year) will still be a part of my life a decade from now--just like some of the people from my earlier trips. Again, to all the people that I encountered on my trip --thanks!  INTRODUCTION A trip to Isle Royale can be one of the best times of your life. HOWEVER, every year, people make decisions that contribute to them having some unpleasant experiences while on Isle Royale. I have personally made decisions which caused me to have some unpleasant times. And, I have witnessed other people who were having a less-than-wonderful time on Isle Royale (as a result of decisions that they had made). Here, in no particular order, are some ways to have an UNPLEASANT Isle Royale trip. 1. Fail to Research and Properly Plan It is important to research and plan for your Isle Royale trip--so that you will know what to expect. Isle Royale IS A U.S. NATIONAL PARK LOCATED ON AN ISLAND IN LAKE SUPERIOR AND THERE ARE MANY RULES AND REGULATIONS WHICH YOU MUST FOLLOW. You are not allowed to bring your motorized vehicles (or use wheeled devices) on Isle Royale. You can't bring any pets or animals with you (except for some actual SERVICE dogs--under VERY specific conditions and only if following strict rules). There is no bridge to the Island. The ferry boats (and seaplanes) DO NOT transport motor vehicles, RVs, and/or campers. You need to reserve your transportation to/from the Island in advance (oftentimes many months in advance). The National Park is open only in certain months of the year. The Lodge and cabins are often booked months (or sometimes, over a year) in advance. If you are a backpacker, camper, or paddler--many of the campgrounds have consecutive night stay limits. Campfires are prohibited at most of the campgrounds. All water in the backcountry needs to be filtered or boiled. THESE ARE JUST SOME OF THE MANY RULES, REGULATIONS, AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR ISLE ROYALE. Therefore, you need to do your research and plan for these sort of things--or you may encounter some unpleasant surprises. I have personally encountered people who thought that they could drive to the Island (via some non-existent bridge) or who thought that the ferry boat would transport their car or RV to the Island. I have seen people show up at the dock expecting to bring their dog or cat with them. There are people who are totally unaware that the ferries (and seaplanes) require advance reservations and that they run on very limited schedules. Thus, these people show up (with no reservations) and truly believe that the next ferry (or seaplane) will show up in 15-30 minutes to take them to the Island. I have seen various individuals who (prior to the welcome lecture when they arrived on the Island) were totally unaware that you must filter or boil all drinking water in the backcountry (or that campfires are prohibited at most Isle Royale campgrounds). Thus, they found themselves having to try to buy water filters, more fuel, or camping stoves at the Rock Harbor or Windigo stores. (Which may--or may not--have had the items available for purchase). I have met people that were totally unaware that most Isle Royale campgrounds have consecutive night stay limits (such as only one consecutive night at Rock Harbor Campground). Thus, they show up with heavy and bulky gear--expecting to stay several consecutive nights at the Rock Harbor campground--only to learn that they will have to hike a minimum of 3-7 miles the next day--in order to get to a different campground. BOTTOM LINE: It is important to research and plan for your Isle Royale trip--unless you wish to encounter some very unpleasant surprises. Visit the official Isle Royale website (CLICK HERE FOR THE LINK) or read the Park newspaper --"The Greenstone"--(which is available on the official Isle Royale website). I also have links to much of this information (and much more) on my Isle Royale website -- THE ISLE ROYALE GUY. (Click here for a link) 2. Bring Too Much Stuff (and/or Stuff That Is Too Heavy) Bringing too much stuff--or bringing things which are too heavy --can negatively impact your Isle Royale trip. This is particularly true if you are backpacking on Isle Royale. However, to a lesser extent, bringing too much stuff (or stuff that is too heavy) can also negatively impact paddlers, boaters, and/or people staying in the Lodge, cottages, or cabins. Probably the most miserable and hurting person (that I have ever encountered on Isle Royale) was a man who had a full backpack that probably weighed 50-60 pounds. He had many items tied to the outside of his pack (and much of it was fairly loose and bouncing around as he hiked--negatively impacting his stride and his balance). He carried a big (and heavy) case for his camera and camera equipment in his one hand. He had a (full) 1-2 gallon plastic water container in his other hand. That is how he was hiking down the trail. I think that he was on Day #4 or Day #5 of doing this when I encountered him on the trail. He was absolutely miserable, exhausted, and experiencing some discomfort--and he freely admitted it. He vowed to never come back to Isle Royale ever again. I have seen adult males -- in their late teens and early 20s (who were probably football players and in somewhat decent physical condition) who were struggling on their hikes (and adjusting their route) --because their backpacks and pack contents were too heavy. I have seen small persons--who were carrying loads that were too heavy in proportion to their small body size--and they were hurting with nearly every step that they took. If you are backpacking on Isle Royale, the weight and size of your full load can make a difference between having a pleasant hike and a miserable hike. If you are a paddler, there is a good chance that you will (at some point) have to make a portage or you will have to haul your gear up a hill from the shoreline to your campsite. Having a fully-packed load that is too much and/or too heavy might very well determine whether you will need to utilize one "trip" or two "trips" in order to portage all of your stuff (or to carry it all to your campsite). Imagine, for a moment, a portage that is one mile long. If you can carry everything in one "trip"--you will need to walk just one mile to complete the portage. However, if you need to make two "trips" to complete the portage--you will hike one mile with the first heavy load. You will then walk back one mile --probably carrying no load (or just some water). Then, you will pick up your second heavy load and hike the same one mile portage again. That's a total of THREE miles. That might not seem like very much when you are sitting at your computer planning your trip. However, I suspect that you will feel very differently when you are actually carrying those heavy loads up and over the Greenstone Ridge a couple of times. 3. Neglect Adequate Hydration The failure to stay adequately hydrated can lead to many challenges and problems on Isle Royale. Dehydration can contribute to things like heat stroke and heat exhaustion (which are often called "heat injuries"). A lack of hydration can lead to stomach and muscle cramping, headaches, confusion, disorientation, and blurred vision. A failure to stay properly hydrated can impact your energy levels, your balance, blood pressure, cardiovascular functioning ... and so much more. Thus, maintaining adequate hydration during your Isle Royale trip is EXTREMELY important. This is true--even if you are just stayng at the Lodge or at a cottage or cabin. I know that this next statement may be very difficult for some people to believe--because water seems to be "everywhere" on Isle Royale. HOWEVER, finding and accessing water to drink can be very challenging on Isle Royale. On a map (and sometimes in real life) it may seem that a water source is so close to the trail. However, oftentimes, it will be very difficult to actually access that water. It may be located at the bottom of a steep hill or cliff and very thick ground cover (and the cliff) may hinder your ability to access that water. A creek may only flow periodically--or it might have been dammed by beavers far away from the trail and not be flowing. You may encounter water at a bog, swamp, or beaver pond--but the water will be too nasty smelling and too nasty tasting to drink--no mater how much you filter it and treat it. The safest policy is to ONLY PLAN ON BEING ABLE TO GET WATER AT OFFICIAL CAMPGROUNDS. The fact that water is difficult to access also means that you will probably need to carry more water with you. In my opinion, two liters/quarts of water would be a bare minimum to leave camp with in the morning--and many people will feel that they want/need to have 3-4 quarts of water when they depart camp. How much water to carry is a very personal decision and water is "heavy" (2.2 lbs. per liter). However, I would much rather have water (and not need it) than need water (and not have it). I also make sure to drink a full liter of water before I leave camp in the morning and to drink water routinely throughout the day. If you want to be miserable (and maybe even have life-threatening problems) while on Isle Royale -- fail to stay properly hydrated. 4. Fail to be Properly Prepared Failing to be properly prepared covers a wide range of issues. Allow me to put some of them in a list format:
BOTTOM LINE: Be prepared --- BEFORE you come to Isle Royale --- unless you want to risk having a miserable time while on Isle Royale! 5. Try to Do Too Much During Your Trip Another way to be miserable on Isle Royale is by trying to do too much during your trip. Many people try to cover too much distance while backpacking, hiking, boating and paddling. (See my blog post from last week for more on this topic). Many people make their schedule so full---that they can really encounter significant problems if they experience delayed transportation to the Island, bad weather, Illness, or injury. A few years ago, I encountered a group of co-ed youth and their adult leaders. They had covered nearly 50 miles by noon on their third day. They were exhausted---and taking a meal break and brief rest at a campground. Yet, their key leader wanted them to hike nearly seven more miles before sundown. Some of these kids were just 11 to 14 years old and were far from their mature body size. Some were carrying packs that weighed over a third (and nearly half) of their body weight. They were tired and miserable. Paddlers and lodge/cabin visitors (and even "day trippers") can similarly push themselves too hard to do too much ... in too brief of time. If you want to see more of Isle Royale and if you want to do more things while on Isle Royale--then plan to be on Isle Royale for more days--or spread things out over 2-3 trips. Being exhausted, sore, injured, and feeling rushed is probably not an ideal way to experience Isle Royale. As the old saying goes-- "Take time to stop and smell the roses". 6. Try to "Live Off of the Land" Periodically, I have encountered hungry persons (or other people have encountered hungry persons) who INTENTIONALLY brought very little (or NO) food with them to Isle Royale--because they planned to "travel light" and to "live off of the land" by eating berries and catching fish from shore. (Some people even planned on killing or trapping mammals--like moose and beaver. Please note: Killing anything other than fish is very illegal on Isle Royale and your chances of being successful is also not very likely). You cannot 100% count on catching enough fish to sustain you (especially if fishing from shore). Berries are not available during much of the summer. Thus, these "live off the land" types can sometimes get pretty hungry...especially if they don't have a watercraft to help them fish away from shore. Fortunately, some people usually find a way to pull together enough "extra" food to feed the hungry folks a meal--but that is just ONE meal. Please, please please -- bring enough food with you for your entire trip--and consider it a "bonus" if you acquire enough fish and berries to sustain you. 7. Leave Things Out and Unattended Foxes, squirrels, chipmunks, mice, and some birds (such as gray jays)--love to take advantage of people who leave things unattended on Isle Royale. You also ought to keep food and "smellables" sealed, "double bagged" --and buried deep in your pack (and then keep the pack inside of your closed tent or shelter). It literally takes only a few seconds for these critters to steal your food and gear. I was once camping near a guy (I think at Hatchet Lake) who took his trail runners off and switched to flip-flops while his dinner simmered 20-30 feet away. He got up to check his food--and a fox ran through camp and stole one of his unattended trail runners. I actually saw the fox run through camp and take it. The man never got his trail runner back. Thus, he finished his cross-island hike in flip-flops. I have seen people cooking at a picnic table at a shelter--and they stepped inside for a moment to get something. During that brief absence -- a jay or a squirrel or chipmunk will enter the scene and eat some of the food or steal it. They might run off with a lightweight spoon or other small object. It takes just a moment (and/or a turned back) for stuff to disappear. One person ate half of a granola bar or energy bar. They folded the wrapper over the top of it--and put it in an outside pocket of their backpack. They left their pack unattended while they did other things. A critter chewed through the outside backpack pocket to get to the open food. Another person left an open bag of trail mix in their zipped tent--and went away for a day hike. When they came back, a critter had chewed their way into the tent and helped themself to an open bag trail mix. Keep food sealed, double-bagged, buried in your pack, and inside of a closed tent or shelter. If you want to potentially lose things and be miserable--leave things unattended. 8. Do "Stupid Stuff" and Take Needless Risks Space limitations do not permit me to list all of the "stupid stuff" that I have seen people do on Isle Royale (and some of it was done by me). People do things like attach hammocks to dead trees, place tents under big dead branches (on a windy day), dive into shallow water, taunt and irritate animals, do risky things with fire and fuel, fail to filter or boil water before drinking it, hike on exposed ridges during lightening storms, get into wrestling matches in rocky areas, hike and/or use watercraft while very drunk or very high, do risky things with knives, hatchets, or saws. Some people go boating, paddling, and/or hiking beyond the limits of their equipment and beyond their own skill and experience levels. The list could go on and on. If you want to potentially have a miserable Isle Royale trip, do "stupid stuff" and take needless risks. CONCLUSION A trip to Isle Royale can be one of the greatest experiences in a person's life. However, making poor decisions has the potential to turn a great trip into a miserable (and sometimes dangerous) experience. Try to make good decisions and take steps to reduce your risks. Happy trails and wonderful waterways!  I could pay for one or two trips to Isle Royale, if I had a dollar for every instance that a first time Isle Royale hiker said "it took me longer than I expected to hike to (fill in the blank)". That doesn't necessarily mean that Isle Royale trails are "difficult". It means that (for many people) their hiking pace is slower on Isle Royale than in other locations. Thus, when you are planning an Isle Royale backpacking or hiking trip, it is important to anticipate having a much slower hiking pace than originally planned ... and to adjust things (like your schedule and water supply) accordingly. SURVEY RESULTS In a 2021 survey of past Isle Royale visitors, conducted by Liz Dengate, 61% of the respondents reported that they covered under 2 miles per hour during their Isle Royale hikes (with 57% of the respondents reporting that they covered between 1 and 2 miles per hour). Another 29.5% said that they covered 2 to 3 miles per hour. There were just 8.5 percent of the respondents who reported covering over 3 miles per hour while on Isle Royale. WHY ARE THE TRAILS SLOW? Take a look at these photos of Isle Royale trails.... (You can click to enlarge the photos) Let me be clear, not all sections of all Isle Royale trails look like the places shown in these photos. HOWEVER, there are enough segments of trail that DO look something like what is depicted in these photos. It is sections of trail (like the sections in the photos) which will slow down your hiking pace. These segments of trail are not necessarily difficult. Yet, it is nearly impossible to hike through such sections very quickly.
Imagine hiking through areas (such as these) during a rainstorm or when these surfaces are wet. Wet conditions will usually slow down your pace even more. EYEGLASSES It has been my personal experience, that wearing eyeglasses (especially bifocals, trifocals, and other multi-focal lenses -- and/or wearing eyeglasses with prisms) will oftentimes slow down your hiking pace. It is one thing to walk on a smooth sidewalk (and/or walk on a level trail) while wearing bifocals or prisms. It is a totally different thing to try to hike quickly (across trails like those in the photos) while wearing bifocals, trifocals, progressive lenses, or lenses with prisms. When you wear eyeglasses, you tend to spend quite a bit more time looking down at your feet and down at the trail -- making certain where you will place each footstep. As you examine just a SINGLE FOOTSTEP, you might not even notice that you are looking down at your feet and hiking more slowly. However, over a period of many miles (or many hours)--and after taking tens of thousands of slightly slower footsteps-- the CUMULATIVE EFFECT of taking slightly slower steps begins to become very apparent. Eyeglasses can slow your pace. TREKKING POLES AND WALKING STICKS Using trekking poles (or a hiking stick) --or using no poles or sticks--is a very personal and individualized decision. However, I invite you to look at the above photos once again. I think most people can see the value of having trekking poles or a hiking stick (to help you maintain your balance) on the uneven terrain that is shown in the photos. THE TRAILS ARE PROBABLY LONGER THAN YOUR MAP SAYS Many people report that they believe the distances on the maps (and on mileage charts) are not accurate. We don't know if this is true or not. However, many people report that their GPS devices often report longer distances than are stated on the map. You will hear similar reports from people wearing pedometers or from experienced hikers who are timing their pace or using a pace count. It is entirely possible that the trail you THINK is 10 miles long--might be closer to 12 miles long. THE IMPLICATIONS OF THIS FOR YOUR HIKE
There are many reasons why you might experience delays on your Isle Royale trip. Thus, when planning your trip, you really ought to include a day (or two) in your schedule where nothing is planned--in case you need that day in order to address a delay.
 A large number of Isle Royale visitors will come to the Island and follow the same 3-4 variations of the same 2-3 basic itineraries and see the same 4-6 locations.
Some people will come as hikers and see Rock Harbor, Three Mile, Daisy Farm, Lane Cove, and/or Moskey Basin. A few might add McCargoe Cove into the mix. Other people will stay at the Rock Harbor Lodge (or the Rock Harbor housekeeping cottages) and do day hikes and short boat rides in the greater Rock Harbor area. There is nothing "wrong" with these itineraries. However, there is a whole lot more of Isle Royale to see! I would invite you to "think outside the box" and experience more of what Isle Royale has to offer! SOME INITIAL IDEAS For starters, I would invite "hikers" and "paddlers" to view Rock Harbor as being MORE than just a place to arrive and/or depart--and more than just a place to grab a cooked meal and a beverage. At Rock Harbor, you can hike the Stoll Trail out to Scoville Point and back. You can rent a canoe, a kayak, or a small motorized boat and explore the greater Rock Harbor area via water. (Learn more about the canoe, kayak, and boat rentals here.) There are also actual boat tours (on "The Sandy") to places like Lookout Louise, the Edisen Fishery, Rock Harbor Lighthouse, the summer headquarters of the Wolf and Moose Project, Raspberry Island, and/or Passage Island. Learn more about the sightseeing tours here. Here is a link to a pdf file "The Rock Harbor Area Guide". Heck, you can maybe even start or end your hiking trip (or paddling trip) with a night or two at the Rock Harbor Lodge or the housekeeping cottages --if there is space available. Think outside of the box! Far too often, people arrive at Rock Harbor and they immediately hit the trail (or the waterways). What if, at the beginning of your trip, you intentionally planned on spending the first night (and maybe even part of the next day) at Rock Harbor--and explored all that Rock Harbor has to offer? At the end of your trip, what if you spent the next-to-last night at Three Mile Campground--got up early in the morning--and arrived at Rock Harbor very early in the day--and spent the full day (and your last night) enjoying the Rock Harbor area? Think outside of the box! For the guests of the Rock Harbor Lodge and/or the housekeeping cottages (who are physically able and have the equipment and skills), imagine if you planned your trip in such a way that you could spend a night or two (at the beginning or end of your trip) hiking and camping at some of the campgrounds --or paddling to a destination-- and camping overnight at a campground? What if, instead of (or in addition to) staying at Rock Harbor, you spent a night or two at the more rustic Windigo camper cabins? Change can sometimes be good! Think outside of the box! One more point: Hikers should consider a paddling trip and paddlers should consider a hiking trip. Think outside of the box! CREATIVE USE OF WATER TRANSPORTATION Many hikers and paddlers will arrive at (and possibly also depart from) Rock Harbor and visit the same 4-6 campgrounds during their trips. Other people will choose to start at Windigo and follow some fairly predictable routes. Nothing says that a hike (or a paddling trip) HAS to start (or end) at Rock Harbor or Windigo. There are other options. WATER TAXIS: Weather and space permitting, there are water taxis out of Rock Harbor that can take you to various other places to start your hiking or paddling trip. YOU NEED TO RESERVE WATER TAXIS IN ADVANCE! Visit the water taxi page by clicking this link: (Water Taxi Link) THE VOYAGER II is a boat from Grand Portage, MN. You need advance reservations and some dates fill up fast! The Voyager II travels from Grand Portage to Windigo. Then, it departs from Windigo and travels to Rock Harbor. Between Windigo and Rock Harbor it will also stop at McCargoe Cove and/or Belle Isle--if someone has advance reservations to be dropped off or picked up at one of those two places. The Voyager spends the night in Rock Harbor. The next morning, it leaves Rock Harbor for Windigo (and back to Grand Portage). Again, if there are advance reservations for drop off or pick up, the Voyager II will stop at Daisy Farm, Chippewa Harbor, and/or Malone Bay. Why not use the Voyager to start/end your hiking or paddling at someplace OTHER THAN Windigo or Rock Harbor? The Voyager II will also drop off resupply packages at each of the stops that I have mentioned. The Voyager II website is here. (Grand Portage Isle Royale Transportation Line) BOTTOM LINE: Your hiking or paddling trip doesn't have to start/end at just Rock Harbor or Windigo! Think outside of the box and explore using the water taxis or the Voyager II to start/end your trip at places OTHER THAN Windigo and Rock Harbor. (Note: It is always wise to have a "Plan B" --in case the weather keeps the water taxis and/or Voyager from traveling). CREATIVE HIKING AND PADDLING ITINERARIES Many people stick to fairly common and pretty predictable routes. Think outside the box! Whether you are on the trails or on the water--consider mixing and matching the standard routes and creating a route of your own. (I will use some hiking examples). GREENSTONE RIDGE ALTERNATIVES: Many people will get on the Greenstone Ridge Trail (at either Rock Harbor or Windigo) and hike fairly directly to the other end of the island using primarily just the Greenstone Ridge Trail. What if you took a longer and more INDIRECT route across the Island? What if (between Windigo and the Island Mine Junction) --you you added a couple days and hiked the majority of the Feldtmann Loop instead of hiking directly between the Island Mine Junction and Windigo via the Greenstone Ridge Trail? What if (instead of hiking a direct route on the Greenstone Ridge Trail (between Chickenbone Lake and Hatchet Lake) --you took a couple day "detour" that passed through McCargoe Cove and Todd Harbor (using the Minong Ridge Trail for part of that detour)? Both at Hatchet Lake and at Chickebone Lake there are trails that connect the Greenstone Ridge Trail and the Minong Ridge Trail. Why not use them? What if, you left the Greenstone Ridge Trail for a day or two and dropped down to stay at places like Malone Bay, Chippewa Harbor, Moskey Basin and/or Lake Richie? NOTE: Between Lake Richie and Rock Harbor, you can hike that entire section relatively close to Lake Superior and entirely avoid the Greenstone Ridge Trail between Lake Chickenbone and Rock Harbor. My absolute favorite route across the Island is a long one. Where I choose to stay each night varies--but the actual route goes like this: Windigo to Feldtmann Lake (with a sunset side hike to Rainbow Cove)--Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay to Island Mine--to South Lake Desor to Hatchet Lake to Todd Harbor to McCargoe Cove. Then, from McCargoe Cove to Rock Harbor, I hike either via Lane Cove or Moskey Basin or Daisy Farm and/or Three Mile. There are many possible route choices between Rock Harbor and McCargoe Cove. The Bottom Line: If you choose to hike across the Island, there are many creative routes--which do not require you to confine yourself exclusively to the Greenstone Ridge Trail (or solely on the Minong Ridge Trail). Think outside of the box! STAY ON ONE SIDE OF THE ISLAND: You can also design creative "loops" that will keep your entire hike on either the Windigo half (or on the Rock Harbor half) of the Island. Some of the best Isle Royale hikes DO NOT involve crossing the Island. On the Windigo end of the Island, I like hiking the Feldtmann Loop Trail. An added bonus to hiking the Fedltmann Loop is to also hike the Huginnin Loop as an overnight hike or as a day hike. On the Rock Harbor end of the Island, there are many great loops (especially if you want to hike one or two big mileage days). My biggest loop on that side of the Island takes me from Rock Harbor to Lane Cove to McCargoe Cove (passing through Mt. Franklin and Mt. Ojibway). Then McCargoe Cove to Todd Harbor to Hatchet Lake to West Chickenbone to Lake Richie to Chippewa Harbor to Moskey Basin to Daisy Farm to Three Mile and back to Rock Harbor. A shorter variation of this route is to skip Todd Harbor, Hatchet Lake and Chippewa Harbor and go from McCargoe Cove (through West Chickenbone) to Moskey Basin and back to Rock Harbor via Moskey Basin, Daisy Farm, and Three Mile). CONCLUSION: Four big things to remember: 1. There is much more to Isle Royale than is to be found in a 10 mile circle near Rock Harbor. 2. The Rock Harbor area DOES offer much to see and do. Hikers and paddlers should spend more time exploring all that the greater Rock Harbor area has to offer. Rock Harbor is more than just a place to spend a few hours at the beginning and end of your trip. 3. You don't have to begin (and end) your hiking or paddling ONLY at Rock Harbor or Windigo. You can use water taxis and the Voyager II in very creative ways to increase your potential beginning and ending points. 3. Whether on the trail --or on the waterways-- you have COUNTLESS OPTIONS beyond the 3-4 options that most people choose to use. 4. You can always reach out to me via Facebook private messaging or via email ([email protected]) to ask me for some FREE route advice. Remember, I am not an expert. I am just a guy who has been to Isle Royale quite a few times. Think outside of the box!  Some Initial Thoughts The weight of someone's fully-loaded backpack is a very personal choice. You are free to carry a backpack that is as heavy (or as light) as you wish. One person might carry a fully-loaded backpack (including water, food, and fuel) that weighs OVER 75 lbs. Another person might carry a fully-loaded backpack that weighs LESS THAN 15 lbs. I have done both extremes in my 52 years of hiking and backpacking. Personally, on Isle Royale, I prefer to have a fully-loaded pack (including food, water, and fuel) that weighs somewhere in the 12 to 35 lb. range (depending upon the expected weather, the length of the trip, and my goals for the trip). Why Some People Go Lighter I (and many other people), believe that a lighter pack weight places less strain on the body. And, it assists you in hiking longer distances and/or at a faster pace with greater ease. That is why I often try to carry a lighter pack weight on my Isle Royale backpacking trips The "Trade-Offs" & Risks That being said, there are usually some "trade offs" that are made as you seek to go lighter with your pack weight. You often end up carrying less "stuff". Thus, out in the wilderness, you might not have all of the "stuff" that you want (or the "stuff" that you believe you need). You might not be as comfortable--especially in camp--due to the stuff that you leave at home. Your sleeping bag might not be as warm. You might leave the camp shoes or camp chair at home. Your tent might be less roomy (or you might decide to leave the tent home and use just a simple tarp instead). You might not bring as many changes of clothing with you. The lighter that you go, the more that you must rely upon your skills and your experience level (and less upon your equipment and clothing items). Thus, going extremely lightweight, probably isn't advisable for people who have limited outdoor skills or limited outdoor experience. Some Ways to Lower Your Pack Weight Leave Stuff Home
One of the easiest, and best, ways to lower pack weight to leave stuff home and not bring it with you on your trip. (What items you choose to leave home is a very personal choice and must be based on your personnel needs and personal preferences). How many changes of clothing do you REALLY need? How much cooking gear (and how many eating utensils) do you need to bring? Do you need that ax, saw, and big "Rambo" knife? Do you need that camp chair? Camp shoes? Do you need all of that electronic gear (and the associated batteries, chargers, and cords?) Do you need a long sleeve shirt AND a fleece jacket AND a "puffy" down jacket AND a windbreaker AND a rain jacket -- or can you get by with bringing just 2 or 3 of those items? When I am going very ultralight, I bring only one change of clothing with me --at most. I rinse out and/or wash my clothing during my trip. I choose to eat food that only requires me to boil water. Thus, I bring a tiny cooking pot that holds just over two cups of water. (Why bring a 10-cup cooking pot to boil only 2 cups of water?). I pour the boiling water directly into the food packages and eat right out of the packages. I use a long-handle titanium spork to eat my food. Thus, I leave all other eating utensils and cooking utensils at home. I don't bring a plate, bowl, and cup with me. (I drink out of my water bottles). I don't bring any frying pans, additional pots, serving spoons, or spatulas. There is no significant need for a saw or ax on Isle Royale. It is against park regulations to cut down standing trees--even dead ones. Cutting branches off of standing trees (even dead standing trees) is not permitted. Fires are not permitted at most campgrounds--and (at the places where fires are permitted) you are encouraged to use wood no thicker than 3 inches thick. Clearing trails is not permitted-- unless you have permission and proper supervision. So, why bring the ax and saw? The same is true about the big "Rambo" knife. What are you going to do with that huge knife---that you can't do with a tiny knife? Bring Smaller & Lighter Stuff I would invite you to think about "The Big Four" items. 1) Your backpack. 2) Your tent/shelter. 3) Your sleeping bag. 4) Your sleep pad. It is amazing how much weight you can save--just by getting smaller and lighter versions of any (or all) of those four items. A tent can easily weigh 5 to 7 pounds. Yet, there are also tents out there that weigh just 2 to 3 pounds. And, if you are experienced with using just a tarp (instead of a tent), there are some tarps that weigh less than 8 ounces. If you use a 2 lb. tent instead of a 7 lb. tent--you can cut 5 pounds off of your pack weight. (Furthermore, why does a solo hiker need a 3-4 person tent?) Similar arguments can be said about backpacks and sleeping bags, Do you want to carry the 5 to 7 pound version (of a backpack or sleeping bag)--or the 1 to 3 pound version? Sleep pads (depending upon their thickness, comfort level, warmth, and materials) can range from just a few ounces to over five pounds. It is possible for "The Big Four" items (combined) to weigh as much as 20+ pounds or as little as under three pounds. Making changes in your "Big Four" is one of the places where you can rather quickly reduce your overall pack weight. Little Amounts Add Up--Get a Scale! Fractions of ounces quickly add up to become full ounces. Ounces soon add up and become pounds. Be mindful of the weight of EVERY item in your pack. Get a kitchen / food scale--or a postal scale--and weigh EVERYTHING. When you have a choice between a heavier item and a lighter item--try to bring the lighter item. (EXAMPLE: One pair of shorts might weigh 3 or 4 ounces and another pair of shorts might weigh 7 or 8 ounces. Bring the 3 ounce shorts). Hypothetically speaking, let's say that you have 32 times in your pack. If you can reduce the weight of each of those 32 items by an average of just one ounce--the total reduction of your pack weight is two pounds. If you reduce each item by an average of two ounces--you reduce your pack weight by four pounds. Remember, fractions of ounces-- and ounces-- add up. Reduce weight every way that you can. Find Items That Can Serve Multiple Functions. The photo -- at the top of this article (showing an item that looks a bit like a tent) -- is a photo of my Gatewood Cape (sold by Six Moon Designs). It serves as BOTH rain gear--and as a form of shelter. When possible, it is good to carry items that can serve multiple functions. Another example: I have a down "puffy" jacket. I bring the down jacket on my trips--and then I bring a lighter (40 degree) sleeping bag (or a 40 degree quilt) instead of bringing a (heavier) 30 degree sleeping bag (or quilt). On cool nights, I wear the down jacket to bed. In short, the down jacket is not JUST a jacket--it is also a part of my sleep system. It serves two functions. My hiking/trekking poles also serve as a pole for my tent/shelter (instead of me carrying tent poles). Instead of carrying a small trowel or shovel to dig a "cat hole" (to go to the bathroom in the woods), I use a tent stake (or a stick) to dig a cat hole. I don't bring a drinking cup with me on my trips. However, if I need something like a cup, I can always use my cooking pot for that purpose. Try to bring items that can serve multiple functions--and leave some other items at home. Conclusion Reducing pack weight can reduce some of the "wear and tear" on your body. It can make your hike (or your long portages) easier and more enjoyable. A lighter pack weight can also make it possible for you to cover longer distances at a faster pace. In July 2022, I took my 17th trip to Isle Royale. My fully-loaded pack weighed between 12 and 18 pounds on that trip (depending upon how much food was in my pack at any given time). Without water, food and fuel, my pack weighed roughly 7.5 pounds. I could have packed slightly lighter--and trimmed another one to three pounds off of that weight. If you want to know what was in my pack--click on this link: WHAT'S IN MY BACKPACK?  Every year, there are people who need to be rescued on the Minong Ridge Trail (MRT). Perhaps they become injured in a fall. Dehydration can sometimes be their major issue. They might become lost. There are many reasons why people might need to be rescued on the Minong Ridge Trail. And, because of it's remoteness, it might be very difficult for someone on the Minong Ridge Trail to reach out to anyone for help. Once help is contacted, it may still take that help many hours (or a day or longer) to reach you. That is why people should exercise extreme caution before hiking the Minong Ridge Trail. Do the number of rescues seem to indicate that the Minong Ridge Trail (MRT) is a difficult trail? Perhaps. However, I think it also shows that (far too often) the "wrong" people are hiking the Minong Ridge Trail and/or they are not coming properly prepared (and properly equipped) for the special challenges that the Minong Ridge Trail presents. Personally, I have hiked many trails that are more "difficult" than the MRT. WHAT IS THE TRAIL LIKE? The MRT (especially between Windigo and Todd Harbor) IS NOT like some fairly easy trail at your typical State or County park. Frankly, the MRT is also not as easy as thousands of miles of trail in many National Parks. However, the MRT is also not as difficult as a Mt. Everest expedition nor like a journey through the Yukon wilderness. People tend to either over hype the difficulty of the Minong Ridge Trail --or they tend to (foolishly and dangerously?) downplay the special challenges that the Minong Ridge Trail offers. There Are Essentially "Two Different" Minong Ridge Trails You will hear different people share far different stories about their experiences on the Minong Ridge Trail (in regard to trail difficulty). Part of that is due to the Minong Ridge Trail (MRT) being a VERY different place --depending upon the recent weather situation and the trail conditions when a person hikes it. The drier that recent conditions have been-- the "easier" the MRT is to hike (generally speaking). If recent conditions have been very wet, you are definitely dealing with a FAR DIFFERENT Minong Ridge Trail. In wet conditions, you will have many sections of the rocky trail that become slippery and almost treacherous. Sections of the trail will be underwater. (I have seen sections of the "infamous" beaver dams be under 5-7 inches of flowing water--or more). Stepping stones on creek crossings may be underwater and creeks may have overflowed their banks. Foliage may be wet and soak you from head to toe as you walk through overgrown sections of trail. In some places, the trail itself can become a "creek" with water flowing down it. So, weather and trail conditions, can play a big role in "which" Minong Ridge Trail you encounter. (Also, things like torrential rains and lightening on the ridges can cause you to hunker down in safer places for a few hours or even for a whole day--and that can impact the amount of time --and number of days--that it takes you to hike the MRT). The Trail Can Be Hard to See/Find The MRT is rugged and primitive. The trail is INTENTIONALLY not well marked. It is INTENTIONALLY less well-developed and not as well-maintained. It is definitely a wilderness area. You will only see actual signs at a few key places --like trail junctions and campgrounds. (Only about 6 or 7 signs in roughly 30 miles of trail). For people who are used to seeing painted "blazes" every few hundred feet on many major trails (like the Appalachian Trail)--there ARE NO BLAZES on Isle Royale--and especially not on the Minong Ridge Trail. In various places, the trail is difficult to see/find. In many places, you will find yourself navigating your way from one small pile of 3-5 rocks (a "cairn") to the next pile of 3-5 rocks. What will you do if a moose (or some "environmentalist" who wants no human-made things in the wilderness) knocks over a cairn or two? You have to be prepared for dealing with things like that. "False Trails" Can Happen You will also find places where (sometimes) a moose trail appears to be the actual trail. At times, there are places where multiple humans have become misdirected in the same places--and these disoriented humans have unintentionally created a false trail. If you are hiking on the MRT--you have to be prepared for things like that. Are your hiking and land navigation skills able to deal with such challenges? If not, please do yourself (and everyone else) a favor--and do not hike the MRT (especially between Todd Harbor and Windigo). You probably need more training and experience before hiking the Minong Ridge Trail. (And, that's perfectly O.K.) It Is Rocky and "Hilly" In Many Places The MRT is rocky in many places. These rocks are very slippery when wet--and sharp and jagged if you fall on them. Walking lots of miles on jagged rocks can take its toll on the feet, ankles, and knees of some people. There are also many ups and downs on the trail. You will hike up 50-150 feet and then hike down 50-150 feet many times during any given day. That too can take its toll on some people. Is your body up to that sort of hiking? If not, you should probably skip the Minong Ridge Trail--until such time (if any) that your body is ready for such trail conditions. It Is Wet and Swampy The MRT is wet and swampy in places. Don't be surprised if your feet and clothes get wet on an MRT trip. There will be 3-4 places (particularly between N. Desor and Windigo) where you will walk on top of muddy and wet beaver dams. (In wet weather, these dams can even be partially underwater). You will have streams to cross that (when they are running) can only be crossed by stepping on rocks (that may--or may not--be fully above water) or by you actually walking through the creek. There are a couple of places where you cross a stream by walking on a single rickety old log. There are some narrow boardwalks and bridges (roughly 12 inches wide). In wet weather, parts of the trail will mostly be just thick mud--or even be underwater. If you hike the MRT--be prepared to get wet and muddy--and then be pleasantly surprised if that doesn't happen. The Trail Can Be Overgrown There are some places (and certain times of the year) when some sections of the trail can be mostly obscured by overgrown foliage. You will usually still be able to follow the trail--but it might be a challenge for some people. If there has been recent rain or heavy dew, walking through such sections can also cause you to get very wet. Pushing your way through an overgrown trail can also slow you down. That brings me to the next point... The MRT Can Be a SLOW Trail Given the types of conditions mentioned above, it is really not very surprising that many people report hiking only 1.0 to 1.5 mph --OR SLOWER on many places on the Minong Ridge Trail (especially in places like the section of trail between Little Todd Harbor and N. Lake Desor). Hiking slower means that it takes you longer to get from Point A to Point B. This means you are spending more time hiking and are likely expending more energy and getting more fatigued. You are also drinking more water--because you are on the trail longer. When planning your overall trip, and when planning the length of your individual hiking days (and when planning the amount of water you will need to carry)--you must remember that hiking one mile per hour may be all the faster that you are going to hike in some long stretches of the MRT... and that slow pace can make a big difference on so many different aspects of your hike. Plan and prepare accordingly and you should be fine. Fail to plan and prepare accordingly...and you may need to be rescued by the rangers and/or the Coast Guard. HYDRATION ISSUES ARE NUMEROUS You Will Likely Consume Lots of Water Many people remark that they can't believe how much water they drink on the MRT. The hiking days are potentially long. The trails are somewhat challenging. The exposed rock ridges can be super warm or even hot. It is not uncommon for someone to say that they carried 3 liters of water and still had to maybe ration it and/or some people may have even run out of water when carrying 3 liters. I will repeat myself--THREE LITERS OF WATER MAY NOT BE ENOUGH WATER FOR SOME PEOPLE ON THE MRT Yet, water takes up a lot of room and it weighs a lot (2.2 lbs. per liter--or 6.6 lbs for 3 liters and 8.8 lbs for 4 liters). The extra weight --though necessary--can make the hike more difficult and tiring. Thus, you have to be in good backpacking shape and you need to have a pack and water containers that can carry 3-4 liters of water. Come prepared --both in terms of your physical conditioning and your gear. Don't Plan On Finding Water Between Campgrounds The chances are VERY good--that the water that you have with you when you leave your campsite in the morning-- will be the ONLY water that you have until you get to your next campground at night. THE MAP MAY SHOW THAT WATER EXISTS NEAR THE TRAIL --BUT DON'T BELIEVE IT! You may be only 50 -100 feet away from water--but cliffs, thick undergrowth, or other impassable conditions will keep you from getting to that water source. You may indeed be near swamps, bogs, beaver ponds, and similar watery areas as you backpack on the MRT. Yet, that water will be so muddy and so full of "gunk" that it will be nearly impossible to filter (and it will very likely clog your filter numerous times--just trying to filter a liter or two). Even when filtered, the smell and the taste of such water may very well cause you to want to vomit. So, don't plan on it as a possible source for drinking water...even if both filtered and treated. A creek that was there last year (or even earlier in the same summer) may have since dried up due to weather conditions---or been dammed up somewhere by beavers. YOU CANNOT COUNT ON ACQUIRING ANY WATER BETWEEN CAMPGROUNDS --even if that water source was there last year or earlier this year. (A Special Note About Little Todd Harbor: If you plan to skip staying overnight at Little Todd Harbor--but still want to refill on water there--please remember that it is a 1.2 mile round trip hike from the Minong Ridge Trail to Little Todd Harbor and back to the trail). As an alternative, if it is flowing, there IS a creek that the Minong Ridge Trail crosses --just a short distance from the Little Todd Harbor trail junction. (The MRT crosses this creek roughly 0.5 miles "southeast" of the Little Todd Harbor trail junction-- between Little Todd Harbor and Todd Harbor on the MRT. My GPS app says it is located at 48.01058, -88.91931). Probably No Water If you Camp Off Trail Sometimes, people will express that they have a desire (or an actual plan) to camp "off trail" somewhere on the Minong Ridge Trail --at a place other than an official campground. (This is called "cross country" camping on Isle Royale. It requires a specific permit and is governed by specific rules. See the link here). The biggest challenge for doing this--in addition to finding a safe spot that fits all of the requirements set forth in the regulations--is not having any water source at this "off trail" spot. This means that you might possibly need to carry TWO DAYS worth of water with you when you start out on that two day section of trail. MY PREFERRED DIRECTION The MRT officially runs between Windigo and McCargoe Cove. I prefer to hike the MRT from McCargoe Cove to Windigo. The biggest reasons are (possibly) having an "easier" first day when you hike it in that direction. I also think that the last day is far easier when you hike from McCargoe Cove toward Windigo. Many people begin their time on the Minong Ridge Trail (when coming in from the east) by either hiking to McCargoe Cove from somewhere else on the eastern (Rock Harbor) end of the Island or by getting dropped off at McCargoe Cove by a boat (such as the Voyager II). This automatically means that --on Day # 1--you have the choice of staying overnight at McCargoe Cove or you can hike "just" 6.7 miles from McCargoe Cove to Todd Harbor. Conversely, if you start out on the MRT at the Windigo end of the MRT--your hike to N. Desor on Day # 1 is roughly 12.6 miles. It is somewhat uphill for much of the way. You will walk over the top of 3-4 beaver dams (potentially already getting your feet wet and muddy in the very first half of Day # 1). Your pack weight will likely be at it's heaviest if this is your first day. Also, if you (foolishly?) try to hike this section of trail on the same day that you arrive at Isle Royale---you automatically get a somewhat late start to the hiking day--even if you are on one of the first boats or planes to arrive that day. (If you really plan on hiking the MRT from Windigo to McCargoe Cove, I highly recommend spending the first night enjoying Windigo and Washington Creek Campground--THEN starting out on the MRT very early the next morning). If you are hiking the MRT from McCargoe Cove to Windigo, the last day of your hike (12.6 miles from N. Desor to Windigo) will be with your lightest pack weight. You can start the long (12.6 mile) hike early in the day--just as the sun is coming up and before the sun on the ridges gets too hot. The general elevation trend will be downhill throughout most of the day. If you get wet and muddy at the beaver dams--it will be in the last half of your last day on the trail. You will most likely be done hiking for this trip and you won't need to hike any more in that wet and muddy footwear once you reach Windigo, You can clean up your footwear a bit and let it start to dry. The store, showers, and laundry capabilities also await you in Windigo. This is why I prefer to hike the MRT from McCargoe Cove to Windigo--instead of the other way around. AIM FOR SHORTER DISTANCE DAYS In my opinion, the MRT is more fun--and less challenging---if you stay at EVERY campground along the way. (McCargoe Cove, Todd Harbor, Little Todd Harbor. North Lake Desor, and Windigo/Washington Creek). When you skip one of the campgrounds, not only do you miss out on some great experiences, you also potentially push yourself to hike too far in one day. Some of the distances between campgrounds on the MRT are rather short--but the short sections can sometimes physically and emotionally kick your butt. One such section of trail is between Little Todd Harbor and North Lake Desor. It is only around 5.7 miles in length--but they are possibly the toughest and slowest 5.7 miles on Isle Royale. It is not uncommon for some people to hike this section at a pace of just 1 or 1.5 mph. Some folks might even hike that section more slowly than that. So, for many people, hiking that one short section of trail is going to take 4 to 6 hours. If you then add to that 5.7 mile distance--the 7 miles between Little Todd Harbor and Todd Harbor-- you now have nearly a 13 mile day of hiking some of the toughest miles on Isle Royale. It will be a very long day--and if you don't start early in the day--you may not get to your campsite before dark. It can be a similarly long and hard day if you try to hike from McCargoe Cove to Little Todd Harbor in one day (13.5 miles). I tried that in 2012--after being dropped off by the Voyager II at McCargoe Cove in the early afternoon. It was not fun. My hiking partner and I hiked into Little Todd Harbor after dark. We were hiking roughly the last mile with headlamps and creeping our way down the trail one very short and slow step at a time. We had to set up camp, filter water, and prepare a meal in the dark (after hiking 13.5 miles on the MRT and after the long boat ride from Grand Portage. MN to Windigo to McCargoe Cove). In many ways, we were reckless idiots. (Part of the issue was--the boat was over an hour late getting us to McCargoe Cove and we failed to shorten our planned hiking day accordingly. We should have stopped at Todd Harbor instead of pressing on to Little Todd). So, I speak from personal experience. I have hiked long days and short days on the MRT. At age 60, I hiked from Rock Harbor to Windigo in slightly under 3 days --going via the MRT. I covered the distance from McCargoe Cove to Windigo in under 48 hours. I have also taken 4 days to hike from McCargoe Cove to Windigo. Trust me, the four day option was much easier and a heck of a lot more enjoyable. Every campground on the MRT is wonderful. I don't like missing any of them. EMERGENCY COMMUNICATION I would strongly encourage people hiking the Minong Ridge Trail (in addition to bringing a map and compass) to also carry a GPS device or GPS cell phone app (that works off of satellite signal and not cell tower signals. And, be sure to download the proper Isle Royale maps BEFORE your trip). ALSO BRING SOME SORT OF SATELLITE COMMUNICATION DEVICE. Remember, you will very likely NOT have a cellphone signal on Isle Royale and will not be able to place a phone call for help. I discuss such communication devices on this page of my website. (Click this Link) SOME VIDEOS My favorite set of Minong Ridge Trail videos was created by Donna WIlson. Her YouTube Channel is called "Some Bold Adventure". Episodes 4 thru 11 of this particular video series are the episodes which cover Donna backpacking on the Minong Ridge Trail between McCargoe Cove and Windigo. In my opinion, her videos (regarding the Minong Ridge Trail) give the best depiction of what hiking the MRT is really like. I have personally hiked the Minong when trail conditions were BETTER than they were when Donna hiked the trail. I have had times when the Minong Ridge Trail conditions were WORSE than they were when Donna did her hike. So, this video series is a fairly good representation of "typical" hiking conditions on the MRT. Here is the link: Donna Wilson (Some Bold Adventure) Minong Videos CONCLUSION The Minong Ridge Trail IS NOT for everyone. It is indeed a challenging hike and it does have some risks. The biggest risks (in my opinion) occur when the "wrong" people (who are not yet ready for a MRT hike) come poorly trained, poorly equipped, and poorly prepared and they still try to hike the MRT anyway. They are essentially an accident and a rescue that are just waiting to happen. In my opinion, the MRT IS NOT a place for beginners and rookies. You really need to be an experienced backpacker who is is well-versed in things like land navigation and outdoor survival in tough conditions (in the event that you encounter some problems during your hike). It is important to have some past experience in dealing with backcountry situations where unexpected things (like bad weather or damaged gear) have occurred. Frankly, even with people who are well-versed in backpacking, ideally hiking the MRT should not happen on someone's first Isle Royale trip. (I would encourage them to get some prior Isle Royale backpacking experience before attempting to hike the Minong). A person (ideally) needs to be in "better than average" physical condition when hiking the MRT. The hiking days are often long and a bit challenging. A person would be well-advised to carry 3-4 liters of water on the MRT--which means having a heavier pack weight (while hiking a somewhat challenging trail). Not everyone is physically able to do such things. In my opinion, the Minong Ridge Trail is not particularly difficult (unless trail conditions are super wet). The big problem is that people --with too little backpacking experience (and too little backcountry experience)--attempt to backpack the entire Minong Ridge Trail. They try to hike the MRT and hike daily sections that are probably "too big and too long" and they don't allow enough time to hike any particular section of trail. They carry too little water. They are not well prepared to deal with a minor first aid emergency--much less deal with a major first aid emergency. They are not easily able to find any trail --unless that trail looks almost like a super highway--and is wide and has big signs. Their land navigation skills are virtually non-existent. Their physical conditioning is poor. In my opinion, such persons should not be on the Minong Ridge Trail. It is safety issue The problem is not so much that the Minong Ridge Trail is "difficult". (To a certain extent, the MRT IS somewhat difficult). The problem is that some people try to hike the Minong Ridge Trail --and they have planned their hike poorly or incompletely. They are poorly trained. They are poorly equipped, They are in somewhat poor physical condition. And, they are lacking in very basic backcountry and wilderness experience. They aren't yet ready for the Minong Ridge Trail. Oftentimes, the hiker is more the problem than is the "difficulty" of the Minong Ridge Trail. Backpacking the Minong Ridge Trail can be a great (and possibly life-changing) experience on Isle Royale. However, backpacking the Minong Ridge Trail is not for everyone. You have to be properly prepared and you need to have the proper experience, equipment, physical conditioning, and a proper plan. Pictures of the actual Minong Ridge Trail. In each of these photos, the trail runs top to bottom in roughly the center of the photo (Click to enlarge each photo)Some Other Photos From the Minong Ridge TrailThus far, I have made 18 trips to Isle Royale. Of those 18 trips, 12 have been completely solo. On two additional (long) trips, I was solo for part of the trip and I then spent time with friends for another part of the trip. Bottom Line: I REALLY enjoy being alone on Isle Royale.
I think that there are many joys and benefits of being solo on Isle Royale. There are also some risks and challenges associated with being alone. In this blog post, I will attempt to explore both the joys--and the challenges & risks--of traveling solo on Isle Royale. I am going to start out with the challenges and risks of being solo. 1. If you are "solo", you have no one to assist you if you have an emergency. That is always one of my biggest concerns when I am solo. "What if trip, fall, 'face plant on a rock', have a heart attack or stroke, impale myself on something sharp, become extremely ill, break a bone, etc.?" In such an instance, I would have no one to assist me and no one to go get help--and that could be the difference between life and death. I ultimately decided that I cannot completely eliminate the risk of such things happening--even if I am traveling with other people. The best that I can do is take steps to manage such risks--both when I am with others--and especially when I am alone. As a solo traveler, I need to plan better and prepare for my trip better. I need to pack things that will help me deal with medical emergencies and other emergencies. I ought to carry a satellite communication device or emergency beacon. People need to know my planned itinerary. As a solo person, I need to be well-trained in how to treat myself for medical emergencies and injuries...and I must have the necessary supplies with me. 2. If you are solo, you have to carry EVERYTHING and do ALL of the work. People who are with a partner or group will often split up the gear and food among the people in the group. They will also divide up the various tasks and chores. (One person will set up the tent, while another person goes to collect and filter water, and a third person might start meal preparations). As a solo traveler, you carry it all and you do it all. 3. When you are solo, you have no one else with whom you can consult. You have no one else to ask--"Should we turn left or right?" or "Does that look like a blue-green algal bloom to you?". There is no one to help you find the next rock cairn or locate that temporarily "missing" section of trail (if hiking) and no one to help you look for the portage sign (if paddling). You are all alone. Thus, the only skills that you have are the skills that YOU bring. You have to know how to use a map and compass. You need to know how to do first aid. You need to know how to set up the tent and work the stove and troubleshoot all problems. It is all up to you. So, you need to come fully prepared. 4. Solo trips can have times that are a bit "scary". I remember being at North Lake Desor Campground--on the Minong Ridge Trail. I was the ONLY person at the entire campground. The next closest campgrounds were nearly six miles away in one direction, over 12 miles away in the other direction, and all the way across a lake in another direction. That means that I was definitely .... alone. I must confess, it was very "unsettling" that night when a pack of wolves began to howl. Another time, I was hiking alone on the very remote 7 mile trail between Malone Bay and the Ishpeming Fire Tower. I heard something large--and four-legged--walking in the woods--just out of my eyesight. (It sounded bigger than a fox--but smaller than a moose--and about the same as my Chocolate Lab back home). When I walked--it would begin to walk. When I stopped walking. It stopped walking. Again, that situation was very "unsettling" when I was all alone--and probably a few miles away from anyone else. Also, meeting strange and/or quirky people on the trail or in campgrounds makes me feel more nervous when I am alone than when I am with other people. I don't think any of them were dangerous. It is just that you are a bit more aware of such people (and more cautious) when you are alone. HOWEVER, TRAVELING SOLO ALSO HAS BENEFITS A. You have something that is often missing in our society---solitude. This is particularly true if you leave the radios, mp3 players, and podcasts home. Think about your daily life. How often are you TRULY alone? How often are you away from the sounds of radios, televisions, people, computers, the hum of refrigerators, and the buzz of florescent lights? When I am traveling alone on Isle Royale, I can sometimes go for hours without seeing another person. I once went for 28 hours (on the Minong Ridge Trail) without encountering another human being. Last July (after much training, rehearsal and proper preparation) I did a solo night hike on an "easy" section of trail that I knew very well. I started hiking (by headlamp)--at 1:30 a.m.. At around 3:30 a.m., I shut off my headlamp for a while and just stood there--taking it all in. It doesn't get much more "alone" than that. I was solo on a trail--about 5-6 miles from Windigo--at 3:30 a.m. No lights. No boat or plane noises. No one was talking in campsites. Complete solitude. (I will admit, on that night hike, my mind kept switching back and forth between "Oh, Wow! I am all alone on Isle Royale in the middle of the night! How cool is this!" and "Oh, crap! I am all alone on Isle Royale in the middle of the night. How stupid am I!" (Please remember, I had planned, prepared, and rehearsed that night hike for a few years before doing it.) B. You truly get to do things YOUR way when you are solo. You select the route. You pick the food. You set the pace. You decide when to take a break. You decide when to go to sleep and when to get up. As long as you stay within the park rules and regulations, you can do whatever YOU want to do--whenever you want to do it--without consulting with another human being. How often do you get to do that at home, work, and/or school? C. You will probably hear and see more wildlife when you are solo. Unless you are making a great deal of noise (or are talking to yourself)--a solo person usually moves through the wilderness much more quietly than two people or a group. This increases your chances of hearing and seeing more wildlife. D. "There's always room for one more!" The word "always" is perhaps a bit of an exaggeration--but I think that you will soon get my point. There may be room on a boat or plane for ONE more passenger--but maybe not for two, three, or six additional passengers. People might be more willing to invite ONE person to share a campsite or shelter--than to invite a group of five people to share a campsite or shelter. Many hikers--and especially many boaters--are VERY proud of their wilderness cooking. They love to show off their cooking skills---especially if they have a little "extra" or some leftovers. Thus, they might say to you, "You just grab yourself a plate, and tell me if that isn't the BEST fish (or chili, or cobbler, or barbecue, or home dehydrated apple slices) that you ever tasted!". A solo hiker (or solo paddler) will likely receive that sort of invitation far more often than a group of four or five people. As a frequent solo traveler, I have often been invited to partake in activities (and/or food) that I am not so certain I would have received if I was with a partner or with a group. E. I think that there is a somewhat greater "sense of accomplishment" when you do a solo trip. I think that the person (who is doing the solo trip) feels that sense of accomplishment---as do many other people who hear the story of a solo journey. Spending seven days in the wilderness is indeed an accomplishment. However, spending seven days in the wilderness ALONE--perhaps seems like a slightly "bigger" accomplishment in the eyes of many people. Our society seems to place a special value on solo endeavors. Little children are quick to say, "And, I did it ... all by myself!" Headlines will read, "He/She sailed around the world--solo". At a music concert, we single out soloists for special recognition. History books tell us that Charles Lindbergh was the person to fly across the Atlantic Ocean--solo. Our society seems to place a special value on solo accomplishments. Solo trips to Isle Royale probably fall in that same category (in the eyes of some people) Whether you travel alone, with a partner, or with a group...enjoy your Isle Royale adventures! Here is a bunch of random Isle Royale information that I have assembled. I have seen one (or more) people overlook each of these things—and then be faced with tough choices and/or unpleasant experiences during their Isle Royale trip. Please consult the official National Park Service Isle Royale website and/or the Isle Royale Official Park newspaper ("The Greenstone") for the best and most recent official information.
-- DRINKING WATER: Unless you are staying ONLY at Rock Harbor or Windigo and are ONLY drinking water from a water faucet at one of those two areas--you will need to filter or boil all of your drinking and cooking water on Isle Royale. The filter must filter out things 0.4 microns or smaller. You cannot (safely) just drink water out of a stream or lake. You cannot just chemically treat the water. The water needs to be boiled or filtered. The National Park Service and the CDC ALSO recommend treating the filtered water with chemical treatment (such as iodine tablets, bleach, or other chemical treatments) or with a UV treatment--such as a “Steripen” IN ADDITION TO FILTERING THE WATER. (Some people disagree with the need to both filter AND treat the water--but that is the official recommendation. Sometimes, inland lakes have blue-green algal blooms. This can make the water extremely toxic and such water CANNOT BE MADE SAFE by boiling, filtering, and/or treatment. -- PETS: You cannot bring your dog, cat, or other animal with you to Isle Royale. The only exception is ADA service dogs and there are extremely strict rules (and paperwork) regarding bringing them to Isle Royale. -- CELLPHONES: For all practical purposes, your cellphone will not work to make phone calls, texts, or to use the internet on Isle Royale. There are a few (usually high elevation) spots where you MIGHT catch a cellphone signal from Canada. Be prepared to pay some hefty international fees (if your phone works in those spots) and if you don't have an international servce plan. Also, if you are just hiking through one of those areas where there is a Canadian cell signal—and your phone is “on” and NOT in airplane mode—your phone might get all of your unopened texts, phone messages, and app updates (and you will have to pay huge fees). -- WiFi AVAILABILITY: There is some limited WiFi available in limited places at Rock Harbor--for overnight guests at Rock Harbor Lodge. -- CAMPING PERMITS: If you are going to be camping or using any of the camping shelters on Isle Royale, you will need to get a backcountry camping permit when you arrive on the island (or when on the Ranger III boat) — CAMPFIRES: There are VERY few places on Isle Royale where you can have a campfire. And, some of those places (where you can have a campfire) only have a “community” campfire ring that must be shared with others at the entire campground. So, you probably shouldn't plan on sitting around a campfire every night. or cooking all of your meals over a campfire — FIRES, SAWS, & AXES: You can only use dead and downed wood for campfires. You cannot cut down standing trees or tree libs--even if they are dead. They recommend using nothing thicker than three inches in diameter (about the size of a wrist). You probably won’t be using it. (And, unless you are properly trained and officially authorized to do so--you can't clear trails). So, you might as well leave that saw, ax, and hatchet at home. — FINDING WATER TO DRINK: On a map, many places along the Isle Royale trails --LOOK like they are close to places where you can stop and filter water. The truth is—you are probably separated from that water source by high rocky cliffs and/or by impenetrable underbrush—or the swampy and murky water that you find near the trail may be so nasty that your water filter will want to run away in fear. For the most part, if hiking, you should only plan on being able to filter water at established campgrounds. When you leave camp in the morning, you should probably plan on carrying enough water to last you until you reach your campground at the end of the hiking day. --PICNIC TABLES are only available at campgrounds located along Lake Superior-and not even all of the Lake Superior campgrounds have picnic tables. inland campgrounds do not have picnic tables. — TOILET PAPER: Plan on bringing your own toilet paper. READ THAT PREVIOUS SENTENCE AGAIN. Unlike years ago, in recent years--the National Park Service has stopped stocking outhouses with toilet paper. Also, it is almost unheard of to find toilet paper at an inland campground (unless someone accidentally left their paper behind). — REGARDING HAMMOCKS: There are rules and conditions regarding the use of hammocks on Isle Royale. It can sometimes be difficult to find a spot to hang your hammock that meets all of the rules. In campgrounds, hammocks may only be used within the existing impacted area of designated sites and not in the surrounding trees. Hammocks may not be hung inside shelters. Choose trees with care; many cannot support a hammock. Hammock use must not damage trees. If your party has more than one hammock—the challenge of finding suitable (and "legal") spots to hang multiple hammocks becomes even more difficult--or an impossibility. Permissible hammock locations may not always be available--so bring a tent or tarp or similar back up plan. (Note, I am often a “hammock hanger”. So, I am definitely not anti-hammock). — STAYING AT SHELTERS: Wooden camping shelters are available at ONLY SOME Isle Royale campgrounds. Wooden shelters do not exist at any inland campgrounds. Furthermore, not all campgrounds along Lake Superior have wooden camping shelters either. There is no guarantee that you will be able to get a spot in a wooden shelter--so--bring a tent, a tarp, a camping hammock--etc. Keep reading for more about shelters. — HAMMOCKS AT SHELTERS: You cannot use hammocks INSIDE the wooden shelters. — TENTS AT SHELTERS: You can set up tents INSIDE the wooden shelters. (Some people do this for extr warmth and for extra protection from wind and rain. Using nails, tacks, hooks, staples, or tape to attach things to the shelters is prohibited! --SIX PEOPLE IN A SHELTER: In theory shelters sleep six people. However, that many people in shelter can sometimes feel crowded. And, --if a strong wind is blowing rain inside of the sheter--people and gear located near the screened wall of the shelter may get wet. — SHELTERS CANNOT BE RESERVED nor can shelters be used as a spot to store your gear while you camp elsewhere at the same campground or while you camp elsewhere on the Island. — FIRST COME BASIS: Shelters are on a “FIRST COME” basis. My rule of thumb is DON’T PLAN ON GETTING A SHELTER. Be pleasantly surprised if you get one. Always bring a tent, tarp, or similar form of shelter with you. It is far more likely that you WON'T get a spot in a shelter than you WILL get a spot in a shelter. — SHARING SHELTERS: It is the National Park Service recommendation (NOT AN NPS LAW OR RULE) that you share shelters until they reach their capacity of six people. The reality is, there is NOT a lot of shelter sharing that happens at Isle Royale unless there is bad weather or similar problem. Even in those rough situations, don’t always count on someone sharing a shelter with you. People will sometimes say "NO" to sharing a shelter that they occupy--even during a big storm and even if they are alone in a shelter. Be pleasantly surprised and grateful if sthe haring of shelters happens. I tend to offer space in the shelter that I occupy--especially if the weather is poor. --SHARING OF TENT SITES: Sharing of tent sites happens often. When conditions are crowded, sharing of tent sites IS THE NORM. You are expected to share tent sites in crowded conditions. — DAILY FEES: There is a $7.00 per person--PER DAY park entrance fee. (Persons age 15 and under are exempt from this fee). Be prepared to pay the fee. You can pay the fee in advance or pay it at the park when you arrive. HOWEVER, please be advised that the National Park Service now only acccpts credit cards (and not cash). There are also Isle Royale passes and National Park Service passes that you can purchase to cover the daily fee. T — LIVING OFF OF THE LAND: DO NOT plan to “live off the land” while at Isle Royale. 1) Killing and or trapping the animals of Isle Royale is forbidden. Also, you cannot gather their eggs (nor can you try to obtain milk from the animals). 2) Do not planning on surviving on fish. You might not be lucky enough to catch any fish on a particular day--nor on your entire trip. 3) Don’t assume that you will find anywhere near enough berries to sustain you. You cannot cut or uproot any plants—other than eating berries. Thus, you cannot gather edible plants to consume. PLEASE BRING ENOUGH FOOD FOR YOUR ENTIRE TRIP (AND FOR ONE OR TWO EXTRA DAYS--IN CASE YOUR TRANSPORTATION HOME IS DELATED). — CAMPING AND HIKING AWAY FROM CAMPGROUNDS AND TRAILS: You cannot camp at any place other than the established campgrounds. UNLESS you get a special cross country permit. Those permits have strict limitations regarding where you can use them. — IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ THIS: Once you get on your boat or plane (to or from Isle Royale), your backpack or luggage will be stored—and YOU WILL NOT HAVE ACCESS TO IT DURING THE TRIP TO/FROM THE ISLAND. So, you might want to have big pockets (or a small bag) in which to carry any food, water, jackets, rain gear, mediction, maps or documents that you plan to use en route to/from the island. Also, it might be a half-hour (or more) before you get reunited with your pack or luggage after you reach land. Thus, you might want to carry with you anything that you might need in your first half-hour on the island (including a wallet, park passes, any receipts you might need, rain gear, and/or any medication). --IT WILL PROBABLY BE COLD ON THE BOAT: Bring a jacket. Also, bring rain gear—just in case. Not all boats have enough indoor seating for all passengers. Also, if you are feeling seasick—you WILL be outside. (even in the rain). --SUNBURN ON BOATS: Many people get sunburned on the boats. The sun reflects off of the water and off of shiny surfaces on the boats. Nothing is worse than starting off (or ending) your isle Royale trip with a sunburn. So, if you are outside on the boats, please cover your skin with appropriate sun-blocking clothing, hats, and/or sunscreen. — LEAVE YOUR MOTOR VEHICLE AND YOUR CAMPER ON THE MAINLAND: You cannot drive a motor vehicle to Isle Royale. There are no bridges. You cannot bring your vehicle or your camper on the ferries. People have actually thought that they could bring their vehicles and campers to Isle Royale. — PLAN ON GETTING WET AND MUDDY when you are at Isle Royale—and be pleasantly surprised if that doesn’t happen. — IT CAN GET COLD ON ISLE ROYALE: It can get cold on Isle Royale—especially overnight. In ANY month—be prepared for temperatures down into the 30s (Fahrenheit). In May, June, September, and October— it can get into the 20s. The record low for October is 13 degrees. — STAY LIMITS AT CAMPGROUNDS: There are consecutive night “stay limits” at all of the campgrounds (and shelters) at Isle Royale. Probably the most important ones to note are the ONE CONSECUTIVE NIGHT STAY LIMIT at Rock Harbor Campground, Three Mile Campground, and Lane Cove Campground. (There some exceptions to that one night stay limit very early and very late in the season). TWO CONSECUTiVE NIGHT LIMITS: At Lake Desor, Chickenbone Lake, Hatchet Lake, Lake Richie, Little Todd Harbor, Feldtmann Lake, Intermediate Lake, Lake Whittlesey, Pickerel Cove, and Wood Lake. There are MANY campgrounds with a THREE CONSECUTIVE NIGHT STAY LIMIT. See the official National Park Service Isle Royale website and/or "The Greenstone" Isle Royale newspaper for the complete and latest list of stay limits. — GROUP PERMITS: If you are going to have more than six (6) people in your group —you need a GROUP CAMPING PERMIT. You need to get that permit BEFORE YOU COME TO THE ISLAND. There are very strict limits on where people can stay and how many groups can stay. Get your group permit early in order to avoid problems and issues. One note: More than 10 people are not allowed in a group. Thus, groups larger than ten people need to split into TWO totally independent groups with completely different itineraries than each other. They canno stay closer than a half-mile to each other. |
Author
Jon Prain ("The Isle Royale Guy") has made 18 trips to Isle Royale. He shares his insights and opinions in this blog. Archives
March 2024
Categories
All
|
RSS Feed