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Years ago, during the "Welcome Talk" on the dock, the ranger giving the presentation made two interesting points. He stated:
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What do you do in order to get ready for your Isle Royale (and other) Spring and Summer outdoor adventures?
Today, after a totally exercise-free winter, I begin training for my two trips to Isle Royale in 2022. (Hiking in June and canoeing in August). I find that, at age 60, (more than ever) I need to be in better shape before I begin these sorts of adventures. Sadly, Central Illinois winters are not great for outdoor activities--and I live 20+ miles from a gym. So, I fall out of shape in winter. That is a TERRIBLE thing to do each year. (And, as I age, each year it takes me longer to get back in shape). Some of the things that I will be working on: 1) Losing body weight. People worry about grams and ounces of backpack weight--but then carry 10 to 50 pounds of extra body weight. After a fall and winter of having some really bad eating habits, I am resuming healthy eating choices and smaller portions as of today. 2) Increase my leg "conditioning" and my cardio health and endurance. I will start out with light walking for a couple weeks--and then progress to doing a combination of jogging and walking. (I am also hoping to enter a half-marathon this summer). I will start out with some shorter walks and jogs--and then slowly increase the daily distances and pace. I will eventually start adding my backpack (and increase the pack weight) as I get closer to summer. I will have to find some good hills and steps to go up and down (somewhere in the midst of the extreme flatness of Illinois farm country) --in order to work on those particular components of conditioning my legs for the countless uphills and downhills of Isle Royale. (Training only on flat walking surfaces or only on a treadmill doesn't really prepare you for the stepping up and down motions that you make while backpacking on isle Royale. I also plan to do leg exercises like "squats". 3) Do exercises to strengthen my "core" and do things like yoga and stretching of my muscles and tendons. As I have aged, I have discovered that injuries are more common without having good core strength--and good flexibility (stretching). Once I got into my late 40s--I started doing daily stretching before starting a day of backpacking. I also start my hikes at a very slow pace for the first 15 to 30 minutes--in order to "warm up" and loosen everything. (Unlike when I was was in my teens, 20s, and 30s, I can no longer just hit the trail at full pace in the morning--without doing some type of stretching and slow warm up). 4) Work on my upper body strength. I'm age 60. I lead a fairly sedentary lifestyle for half of the year. I have not done a big canoe trip in 40 years. I have until mid-August to get ready for that. Until things warm up --and I can start canoeing in my local area--I will be doing exercises to strengthen my arms and upper body. What things will you be doing to get ready for your Spring and Summer activities--and your trips to Isle Royale? (Any suggestions for this old guy?) Did you ever notice that four different people can describe the ease/difficultly of THE EXACT SAME section of Isle Royale trail in VERY different ways? (One person will describe the section of trail as relatively flat and easy. Another person will describe the same section of trail as being "pretty rough and filled with lots of ups and downs"). How can this be?
Let's pretend it is mid-August 2022, and you come to a Facebook seeking advice regarding your upcoming September 2022 hike of the Feldtmann Loop. Four people offer you advice. You look at their past posts in this group (and their Facebook profiles) and you discover: PERSON #1: Has been to Isle Royale 22 times. She is a middle aged female (with a self-acknowledged somewhat sedentary lifestyle). She states, in an early 2022 post, "I hope to hike on the West End of Isle Royale one day." PERSON # 2: In Late September 2021, this roughly age 40 year-old male, posted photos of his "recent" hike on the Feldtmann Loop. He also mentions that this was his sixth trip to the island (and the 4th time that he had hiked the Feldtmann Loop). PERSON # 3: Mentions (in former posts) that he had worked as a Ranger at Windigo for a few years in the mid-1980s and LOVED hiking the Feldtmann Loop as often as possible on his days off. He also states, "I hope to get back there some day. I haven't been to the island since 1993". PERSON # 4: In mid-August 2022, this male (who is probably in his mid-20s) posts photos of his recent and VERY FIRST trip to Isle Royale. He had hiked the Feldtmann Loop on that recent trip. He also mentions that he is from Colorado and he prepared for his Isle Royale trip by running in half-marathons. Is it any wonder that these four people would describe the ease/difficulty of hiking the Feldtmann Loop in VERY different ways and give you VERY different advice regarding a trip to Isle Royale? All four have valuable advice and wonderful insights to share. But, their advice is probably going to be most helpful if you do a bit of your own research and check out who is giving you the advice. It is that time of the year when (once again) many people start asking questions regarding the "bugs" on Isle Royale and when they will be present and bothersome in large numbers. Here are my thoughts on that subject:
1) ALWAYS come to Isle Royale prepared for potential encounters with large numbers of attacking flies, mosquitos, and other bugs. Bring insect repellent. Bring a head net. Maybe treat your clothing and gear with permethrin--or similar repellents. It is better to come prepared to deal with "bugs" and not need it--than to need it--and not be prepared. 2) No one knows (for sure) when and where the bugs will be "problematic" on Isle Royale. (Read that sentence again--two or three times and slowly). Contrary to popular opinion, the bugs DO NOT publish their plans long in advance on social media. Weather conditions play a big role in regard to when there are more/less "bugs". Large numbers of bugs can be present at just about anytime that the park is open. (That being said, the chances of encountering lots of problematic bugs is probably less very early and very late in the Isle Royale season). 3) Even on the same day, "bug conditions" can vary from place to place on the Island--and even at different places in the same campground (or on different sections of the same trail). 4) Some people seem to attract bugs (such as flies and mosquitos) more/less than other people. Also, different people deal with "bugs" differently. Some people can have a huge swarm of mosquitos landing on them--and hardly feel bothered by it. Other people can SEE two bugs 20 feet away from them --and practically lose their mind over "the really bad bug conditions". 5) For those who still REALLY need to have an answer to the question "When (and where) on Isle Royale will the bugs be really bad?" Here is an answer: "Moskey Basin-- from 5:45 p.m. to 9:02 p.m. on June 11, 2022 and also at East Chickenbone Campground from 7:19 p.m. to 8:27 p.m. on June 22nd." I hope that answer helps those individuals who REALLY need to know when or where the bugs will be problematic. (Actually, my answer has just about as much chance of being accurate as nearly any other answer that someone might offer). Happy trails! I read the thread (regarding cellphone coverage on Isle Royale) with great interest. Numerous opinions were expressed. THE BOTTOM LINE IS: Many people are going to bring their cellphones and electronic devices to Isle Royale--whether some other people like that or not. In the previous thread, some people did a pretty good job of presenting reasons why someone might really want/need to contact their home or work--if at all possible. They also pointed out the many other uses for cellphones in modern hiking and camping. Thus, I won't rehash that in this post. My biggest issue/concern is this: I would invite all people to use their cellphones and other electronic devices (of all kinds) in a respectful manner when they are visiting Isle Royale. When other people are trying to enjoy the view at the top of Mt. Franklin or Mt. Ojibway-- they really don't want to hear you shouting into your cellphone. ("Can you hear me NOW?"). When people are hiking down the trail, they don't want to hear your music or podcast blaring. (Please put in some earbuds. That way you still get to listen to your stuff and other people get the quietness that they are seeking). When someone is trying to sleep at night, they don't want to hear you cranking some music at a campfire--or at your shelter, in your tent, or on your boat. Please respect other people's right to experience quiet and undisturbed sleep. (Note: The official quiet hours are VERY early on Isle Royale-- 10:00 pm to 6:00 a.m. EASTERN TIME and 9:00 p.m. to 5:00 a.m. Central time) To those persons who would say: "This is my National Park just as much as it is anyone else's--and if I want to be noisy and talk loudly on my phone and play my music through a speaker--I will do so! It's my right!". I would offer two responses: 1) It's not just about "you". and your rights. Other people have rights also. That includes the right to experience REASONABLE levels of quiet in a wilderness area of a National Park. (NOTE: Some folks are indeed UNREASONABLE--and they have unrealistic and unreasonable expectations that they should not ever be able to hear any other people on Isle Royale and that no one should even say "Hi" to them on a trail and disturb their solitude. I would say to such people, sorry, but it isn't your own private park. You are going to see and hear other people and many of them will say "Hello".) 2) To those who would state that they have a right to use their electronic devices however they wish, I would also include a screenshot from the official Isle Royale National Park newspaper (The Greenstone")--which clearly states the official policies regarding both noise and electronic devices. I would invite everyone to go to Isle Royale. Enjoy! Have fun! Be nice and respectful to one another. Remember you have rights--but other people have rights too. (I once heard an old man say: "Yes, everyone has a right to swing their fists--but their right to swing their fists ends at my nose!. At that point, MY rights must prevail").  I saw some great advice today. I want to share it and slightly expand upon it.
1) Don't be overly concerned about whether there will be a few bugs--or many bugs. Always come prepared for many bugs--and enjoy. 2) Don't worry about what the temperatures will be. Always come prepared to deal with temperatures ranging from the mid-20s to upper 80s....and then enjoy. 3) Don't worry about when it will be the rainiest or the driest. It will rain as little (or as much) as it is going to rain during your trip. Always come prepared to camp and hike in very heavy rains. Then--enjoy! 4) Don't worry about finding the "best" campsite and avoiding the "worst" campsite. Go to whatever campsite fits your "schedule" and your wishes---and enjoy whatever you find there. (This IS Isle Royale--even a "bad" campsite on Isle Royale is a great place to be!). 5) Don't worry about where you will see the most moose. The moose are free to go wherever they wish--and they typically DO go wherever they wish. Just walk and behave quietly. Keep your eyes and ears open. Stay alert--and enjoy whatever you encounter (whether it is moose--or not). The important thing is--ENJOY! 6) Don't try to hike so far, so fast, and see so much of the Island in one trip-- that you actually fail to truly appreciate and enjoy the parts of the island that you DO encounter. 7) Don't worry about having the best shoes, best boots, best tent, best backpack--or the best of anything. Pick whatever works FOR YOU--and go forth and ENJOY! It is easy to devote so much time to trying to have the BEST hike, the BEST camping spot, the BEST weather, hiking the BEST trails, kayaking the BEST lakes, obtaining the BEST mileage, seeing the BEST sites/sights -- and capturing the BEST photos --that one can fail to enjoy the experience while it is happening. Just an observation. A couple of years ago, nearly "everyone" seemed to be recommending going to Lane Cove at some point in your trip (if you were arriving and departing from Rock Harbor). Now, it seems to be Moskey Basin is the campground that nearly "everyone" recommends.
Two things to note: 1) It seems that the "must-see" campground changes periodically. (How often do you see people in 2021 recommending Lane Cove?). 2) When you go to any of the "must-see" places mentioned in Facebook groups, there is a good chance that you will encounter a "crowd" because "all of the really cool kids" are now going there. I would invite people to be creative when they develop their itineraries. A) Use water taxis and the Voyager to drop you off at places other than Windigo and Rock Harbor. B) Hike "different" routes than "the crowd". C) Hike slightly longer distances each day and get to different places than the 5 or 6 most often visited campgrounds. D) Stay on the Island for more days and get to other places on the Island. E) Consider hiking on the Windigo (Western) end of the Island--and visit places other than Huginnin Cove and Washington Creek. F) If you choose to cross the Island--deviate from strictly following the Greenstone Ridge Trail -and go to places other than S. Desor, Hatchet Lake, and W. Chickenbone. G) If you have the experience and skills--consider getting a cross country permit and staying at places other than the established campgrounds. H) Travel by kayak or canoe (or other watercraft) and go to places where most other people do not go. Oftentimes, people arriving on the Island are in such a hurry to hit the trail that they fail to fully enjoy the things that the Rock Harbor and/or Windigo areas have to offer. People get dropped off by boat or plane--and off to the trail they go. They are practically "racing" to get to their first campground more quickly than other people--or to at least get there as early as they possibly can. Thus, they totally skip enjoying the area where they were dropped off.
There is something to be said for staying the first night where you are dropped off. If you are like me, the night before the trip (and/or the morning of the the trip) are somewhat sleepless times. You get up early. You may even sit in a vehicle and drive a distance in order to reach the boat or plane. Then, you sit on the boat or plane for a while. You arrive on the Island, you perhaps go through the welcome lecture and get your permits. You likely get a "late" start on your actual hike. (And, you are tired, stiff from sitting, maybe your food and hydration habits are off--Yet, you "hit the trail"). Imagine the difference, if you arrived, intentionally planning to spend the night in the area where you were dropped off. You would get settled and oriented to the area. You could do some exploring and light hiking (to get loosened up after traveling). Eat well. Get hydrated. Get a good night's sleep--and hit the trail in the morning. Some people express worries or concerns about hiking solo. Isle Royale is a great place to do solo hiking (in my never humble opinion). Most of my many Isle Royale trips have been solo hikes.
What is nice about hiking solo on Isle Royale, is the fact that it is a remote island. That means that the people who are on Isle Royale REALLY want to be on Isle Royale--and they spent considerable time, planning, and money to get there. You don't typically encounter the "random idiot" with a truck, SUV, or ATV who is going to harass or pose a danger (or an annoyance) to hikers. In the majority of instances, the people on Isle Royale form a friendly community--even if they have never met each other before. In most places on Isle Royale (especially between Memorial Day and Labor Day) you will rarely be totally alone overnight in a campground (although, that can occasionally happen). You will occasionally encounter other people on most trails. So, there is often the possibility of eventually encountering potential help in camp and on the trail. The exceptions would possibly be the Minong Ridge Trail, the Ishpeming Trail to Malone Bay, and EAST Chickenbone Campground. The Isle Royale wolves don't bother humans. So, no need to be terrified about the wolves. You can buy or rent satellite phones and/or satellite emergency devices if you want to have an even greater sense of security if you become sick or injured. Hiking solo isn't really all that different than hiking with a hiking partner--other than there is no one to split gear with. Thus, you must make sure that you personally have (and carry) everything that you will need. (On the flip side--you don't need as big of a tent for one person and a solo hiker also doesn't need as much food as two people). Another difference: If you do something like hike the Minong Ridge trail--you will have one less set of eyes to look for rock cairns --or to help find a (sometimes) hard-to-find Minong Ridge Trail. That is not so much a "problem" as it is a slightly added degree of "difficulty" Again, I think Isle Royale is a great (and relatively safe) place to do a solo hike--especially if you have some prior hiking and camping experience of any kind. I share this photo (from time-to-time) because it makes me smile. I am a hiker and pastor. I officiated at a wedding on the Windigo dock in August 2018. I met the groom in 2010 and the bride in 2013. The bride and groom (Chad and Jenn) met on the Windigo dock (Isle Royale) in 2011. The groom proposed on the Windigo dock in 2013. They were married on the Windigo dock in 2018. I snapped this photo as they posed for pictures after the ceremony. There is a much longer version of this story--which involves how the Island intertwines with the lives of several of us who met on the Island in August 2010. Here is the "shorter" part, that involves Chad: In 2010, I met Chad (and a friend of his) on the boat from Grand Portage to Isle Royale. Due to site over crowding, I shared a campsite with them at Feldtmann Lake. A young woman (NOT JENN) shared the site with us also due to overcrowding that night at Feldtmann Lake. We all took a side hike together that night to Rainbow Cove and enjoyed the sunset and watched the full moon come up behind us. We hiked back to Feldtmann Lake by moonlight--intentionally not using our headlamps. In 2011, I ran into Chad, his same hiking partner, and a couple of their friends on the Greenstone Ridge. We ending up taking a break together for a short while. At the end of Chad's trip (with me nowhere around), Chad met Jenn on the Windigo dock. They talked on the boat ride back to Grand Portage and started dating. In 2013, I traveled to Windigo for a just a few hour day trip with my visually impaired daughter. On the boat ride back, we encountered Chad and Jenn (and his hiking partner/friend was with him again also). Chad had just proposed to Jenn on the Windiigo dock moments before. So, I was one of the first to congratulate them and see the ring. Winter 2017-2018, Chad contacted me via Facebook and invited me to officiate at their wedding on the Windigo dock in August 2018. Between us, we got all of the right permits, permissions, and licenses from the NPS and the folks in Keweenaw County, Michigan--and the wedding happened on the Windigo dock. As a side note, Jenn's sister (and Maid of Honor) has been a competitor on "American Ninja Warrior". So, I am guessing that not many of you have officiated at a wedding on Isle Royale--with an American Ninja Warrior in attendance.  |
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Jon Prain ("The Isle Royale Guy") has made 18 trips to Isle Royale. He shares his insights and opinions in this blog. Archives
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