 Back in the 1970s and 1980s, my full pack typically weighed between 45 and 65 pounds--with my record being 75+ pounds. On my July 2022 (nearly 90 mile) Isle Royale hike, my pack never weighed more than 18 lbs--even with 3 liters of water and up to 5 days of food. (And, I could have made it 2-3 pounds lighter if I had wanted to). I am not recommending pack weights of over 75 lbs nor pack weights of 18 lbs. (or less). However. most people could probably benefit from lightening their pack a little bit. That's what I want to talk about in this article.  I saw the above photo online and it is what was inspired this article. I remember those days. It was an era when many people bragged about how HEAVY their pack was (as opposed to the modern trend of boasting of the LIGHTEST pack weight). I still see many people hiking with fully-loaded packs like this (and that is their right and their choice. "Hike Your Own Hike" -- HYOH). Some of these people truly love this type of backpacking and are comfortable doing it. However, many other people carry loads like this and they look uncomfortable, miserable, exhausted, and sometimes they are even limping. While I am writing this article for everyone -- my target audience are the people who currently hike with loads like those seen in this photo--but who are miserable and are looking to explore other options.  Screenshot of me holding my super ultralight pack--loaded with everything except food. Notice how small and empty it is. There is very little in the main body of the pack--even several inches below where my hand is located is essentially empty. It is much smaller and lighter than the packs worn by the couple in the earlier photo. With two liters of water and 5 days of food--this will weigh around 15 lbs. fully loaded--including the weight of the pack. LEAVE STUFF HOME! One of the primary reasons why some people's packs weigh so much (and why the wearer of the pack is miserable) is the fact that they simply bring too much stuff with them. Much of the stuff is simply not needed on an Isle Royale trip and should probably be left at home. Allow me to list some of the things that I leave home. (This is MY list--and your list may vary).
Get a Scale --and Weigh Things.One of the best investments that you can make is to buy a small postal scale or a kitchen/food scale. Preferably this will be a digital scale. Then weigh all of your potential pack contents. Bring Lighter Weight Items.When trying to reduce your pack weight, one of the more "dangerous" thoughts is that "a fraction of an ounce doesn't really matter" or "a few ounces won't make a difference". Thus, you bring the additional item or the heavier item. Fractions of ounces add up and soon equal full ounces. Full ounces add up and equal pounds. Let's assume that you have 32 items in your pack. If you reduced the weight of each item by an average of just half-an-ounce you would cut a pound from your overall pack weight. If you cut the average weight of each item by TWO OUNCES -- you would cut 4 lbs of pack weight. It all adds up. Most of the time, you can cut quite a bit of pack weight without buying anything else (other that the above-mentioned scale). Let's assume that you own two pairs of shorts. One pair weighs 6 oz. and the other pair weighs 4 oz. Bring the lighter pair of shorts. Some people bring a 7-10 ounce "Rambo" survival knife with them on their trip. I bring a tiny 0.7 ounce knife. Thus, I bring half-a-pound less -- just by my choice in knives. If you make enough of these lighter types of choices (from among the gear and clothing that you already own) you can potentially drop several pounds off of your pack weight. Bringing items that are "bigger than you need" can also add to pack weight. I tend to be a solo hiker who almost never heats more than two cups of water at a time. Why should I bring an 6 to 10 cup cooking pot? Why should a solo hiker bring a 2-4 person tent? Should a solo hiker bring a small (1 to 3 ounce) Sawyer water filter or a "pump-style" water filter (which is more appropriately suited for small group use) and which weighs over a pound? A Special Note About Food Do you REALLY need to bring a large amount of food--or can you easily and safely get by with bringing less? Bringing just 2-4 ounces less of food per day--can easily shave a pound (or more) from your pack weight on a week long trip. So, think twice before you keep adding more food items "just in case". ALSO, pay close attention to the CALORIES PER OUNCE. Here is an example: Walnuts have about 185 calories per ounce. Conversely, a 2.6 ounce packet of tuna--has just 70 calories -- which is less than 27 calories per ounce. To get nearly 1,500 calories, you can either bring ONE 8 ounce bag of walnuts--or 21 foil packets of tuna (that will weigh more than 3.4 pounds). The number of calories per ounce can make a big difference in both pack weight and pack volume. The "Big Four" ItemsI am NOT suggesting that people run out and buy all new gear that is lighter in weight (and expensive). However, we all need to eventually replace or upgrade pieces of gear as they wear out. Thus, when you are replacing gear -- try to keep weight in mind. Over a period of years, you can lighten your pack weight significantly -- especially when you replace any of the "Big Four" items. The "Big Four" items are:
TENT: Some tents weigh 5-7 pounds (or more). There are other tents that weigh under 2 pounds. Some tarps weigh under 8 ounces. (NOTE: Using very light tents and/or using a light tarp instead of a tent -- is not safe or advisable for everyone). BACKPACK: Some empty packs weigh 5-6 pounds. One of my current packs weighs between 8 and 13 ounces --- depending upon how I have it set up. My other main pack weighs just 1 lb. 10 ounces. NOTE: Light packs are definitely not for everyone. They can carry very little weight. They can carry far less volume, and the material is oftentimes more subject to ripping and tearing. My lightest pack is designed to carry no more than 15-20 pounds of stuff. SLEEPING BAG / QUILT: Some weigh over 5 pounds. Others weigh between 1 to 2 pounds. That is a BIG difference. SLEEPING PAD: They can range in weight from less than 8 ounces to over 3 lbs. Thus, the "Big Four" can weigh a combined total that is OVER 21 pounds or as little as under 3 pounds. Therefore, let "weight" be one of the deciding factors whenever you replace items -- especially when you replace one of the "Big Four" items. CONCLUSION & WARNINGSPack weight is a very personalized choice -- or a very personalized series of choices. ("Hike Your Own Hike"). However, if you want to reduce your pack weight, there are many ways to do so that wont "break the bank" or empty your wallet. (There are also some -- semi--costly -- ways that you can reduce your overall pack weight -- as you replace worn out gear with lighter gear over a period of years).
WARNING: Going lighter with gear, clothing, and food is NOT advisable or safe for everyone (especially going ultralight or super ultralight). Using some types of lighter gear, lighter clothing, or less food or lighter food is advisable only if you have special training or experience. Please exercise extreme caution as you attempt to lower your pack weight. PLEASE NOTE: The author of this article has over 53 years of camping and hiking experience as well as military training and wilderness survival training. He has also been to Isle Royale National Park nearly 20 times. He has many decades of experience using lighter gear and doing light weight backpacking.
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 MY PERSONAL OPINION: Trying to do too much stuff -- in too little time -- can negatively impact your Isle Royale experience. Slow down. Relax. Cover fewer miles. See fewer places. Do fewer things. Here is the big irony regarding an Isle Royale visit --- doing less usually means that you will experience more. I tend to read many online posts from people who are planning Isle Royale trips. I also (free of charge) help many people plan their Isle Royale trips. In the vast majority of instances, what I observe are people who are trying to cram more "stuff" into a limited time frame. They want to cover longer distances. They want to see more things. They want to hike across the Island (on a limited time schedule). They want to visit more places on Isle Royale. Sadly, the harder they push--the less they really experience. In my opinion, Isle Royale is NOT a place that you should merely SEE or VISIT -- and faithfully check items off of your "to do list" as you see them or as you do them. Rather, Isle Royale is a place that you need to fully EXPERIENCE---with all five senses (and with that inner "sixth sense"). That full experience cannot usually be achieved if you are trying to do too much in too little time. If you want to fully experience Isle Royale, you need to slow down--savor each moment --and take it all in. Inhaling Fast Food--or Experiencing Quality Dining? It is our tendency in the U.S. to try to eat our meals almost as quickly as possible. We often view mealtime as a necessary imposition that pulls us away from doing the "really important" things. Even as people are "inhaling" their fast food--they tend to multi-task and "inhale" their food while driving and/or while staring at their mobile phone or while staring at a computer screen (or a television). We rush through mealtime and fail to fully experience the food (and the people around us). I once went out to dinner with a fairly new military colleague who was quickly becoming a good friend. We went to an Indian restaurant. We consumed lots of great food (and beverages) in a very relaxed way. It was essentially a multi-course meal. We were at the restaurant for over four hours (and, we paid and tipped the staff appropriately for all of their time and efforts). It was the most enjoyable and relaxing meal that I have ever had in 62+ years of living. The restaurant was not busy--and it was fairly quiet. Some Indian music -- that was relaxing and practically meditative -- played softly in the background. The lighting in the restaurant was soft and low. Thus, our senses were not overly bombarded by loud noises and harsh lighting. There was considerable time between courses for us to simply relax and chat--while we waited for more great food to be prepared and brought to our table. The taste, smell, and texture of the food was out of this world. We ate slowly and we fully experienced and enjoyed each morsel --- using all of our senses. After most of the meal was done, we continued to relax. We ate desserts and chatted some more while we sipped our after dinner coffee (or similar beverages). We never once looked at our cellphones. For over four hours, we were completely absorbed in the conversations, the friendship, the relaxing setting, the restaurant staff, and the fabulous food. We dined using all of our senses while fully enjoying each moment. Isle Royale As a "Quality Dining Experience" How do you want to experience Isle Royale? Do you want your Isle Royale experience to be similar to going through a drive thru (and inhaling your food while you multi-task) --- OR --- do you want your Isle Royale experience to be similar to the quality (4+ hour) dining experience (that I described above)? In order for my military friend and I to have that quality dining experience, we had to slow down and forget about the clock, our cellphones, and all of our "to do lists". We were two very busy Army Captains attending an academically intense military course for many weeks. There were thousands of pages of reading. There was research to be done and papers to be written. There were many hours of classes to attend. And, it was still the Army. We had uniforms to iron and press (and obtain sharp creases using starch). There were boots to polish (to the point that you could see yourself reflected in them). Physical training started at 5:00 a.m. each morning--(meaning that we had to be on the drill field at 4:45 a.m). There were inspections of our uniforms and our grooming. We were busy Army officers and students at an advanced military "school". We had sergeants, senior officers, and instructors "breathing down our necks" and who were pushing us almost every day (7 days per week). We were extremely busy and we had much to accomplish. Yet, we took that night off. We slowed down. We essentially said "to hell with it all" -- and we enjoyed a long (relaxing) meal and we enjoyed each other's friendship. Part of fully experiencing Isle Royale will require a person to do what my military friend and I did. You ultimately have to say "to hell with it" all. You have to set aside the schedules, the itineraries, the "to do lists", the cellphones, the text messaging, and all of the things that are going on at work and at home (and even set aside the things that you want to accomplish while on Isle Royale). You have to consciously decide to "live in the moment" and enjoy every single second--utilizing all of your senses. Toss out the plans and simply "go with the flow". If (on Isle Royale) you are focused on reaching a certain destination and accomplishing certain tasks on a particular day (by a particular time) ... then you will have likely failed to fully experience the Island. Your focus will NOT have been upon "the Island" and "the moment". Rather, your focus will have been on your plan, your schedule, and the clock (and/or on things "back home"). It is one thing to SEE a few otters swimming in the water as you hike or paddle. It is another thing to pause and to just sit there and watch the otters for 15-30 minutes. It is one thing to reach a scenic overlook--snap a few photos--and then move along. It is a totally different thing--to STOP--take off your pack (and maybe even take off your footwear and socks) -- and eat a meal at that scenic overlook--as you fully use all of your senses in order to fully "take in" that moment and that place. If you think that you see great things at a scenic overlook --when you pause there for 3-5 minutes. Imagine all that you can experience (at that same scenic overlook) when you stay there for 30 minutes and utilize all of your senses. It is one thing to exchange some pleasant "chit chat" with a fellow Island visitor (as you filter water side-by-side at the shore line). It is another thing to fully engage in an actual conversation with that same person -- learn about each other -- and maybe even become long-term friends. Do you want fast food from the drive thru (eaten while multi-tasking) -- OR -- do you want a four hour quality dining EXPERIENCE? Slow down. Do less. Set aside your plans, your itineraries, and your agendas--and simply experience the days and the moments as they unfold. Intentionally take time to notice more things. You will get to your campground whenever you get to your campground. Who cares if you don't get a shelter and maybe have to SHARE a tent site? Forget about racing to get to the campground before other people. Instead, stop and enjoy the otters. Take in the views along they way. Notice the flowers. Hear the birds. Smell the pines. Taste the thimble berries. Feel the sun on your face, the wind blowing through your hair, and the icy (and soothing) water on your tired and aching feet was you wade in Lake Superior. Don't strive to complete a checklist of items. Instead, pause often and savor the experience. Yes, you will probably get to the campground later and you may need to share a tent site. Heck, maybe that person (with whom you end up sharing the tent site) will become your new friend (and you may still be close friends 14 years later). Live in the moment. Use all of your senses ... and enjoy each second that you are on Isle Royale. MOUNT OJIBWAY FIRE TOWER I am constantly amazed at how different people experience the Mount Ojibway fire tower (and similar scenic places) on a clear and cloudless day. Some people experience Mt. Ojibway as primarily a place with good cellphone reception. They reach Mt. Ojibway and get out their phones and start sending text messages. They check their emails, update their social media, and talk to people "back home" and people at work. How can someone fully experience Isle Royale and Mt. Ojibway when they are reading (and replying to) that email from "Mary in accounting" or when they are posting photos to Instagram or talking via cellphone to their significant other? At best, their attention is divided. They are not fully present at Mt. Ojibway. A part of them is essentially "back home". They are not fully experiencing Mt. Ojibway with all of their senses. Their eyes are staring at a cellphone screen. Their ears are listening to someone at the other end of the phone connection. Their brain is back at the office. And, how can I (a fellow Isle Royale visitor) fully enjoy Mt. Ojibway --when someone is standing (just a few feet away from me) --shouting louder and louder into their cellphone saying, "Can you hear me now?" Yes, such people will have visited Mt. Oibway. They will have photos from Mt. Ojibway. But, will they have fully EXPERIENCED Mt. Ojibway? A Rabbi. An SUV. A Spider Web. I was an Army National Guard Chaplain. At the time, my rank was "Captain". I was working at an event with another Chaplain (a Jewish Rabbi). He was a Major. Thus, he outranked me. Near midday, the Chaplain / Major / Rabbi said to me, "Chaplain Prain, let us go to the dining facility and get ourselves some lunch". He was a Major. I was a Captain. Thus, we went to lunch. As we walked across a parking lot, he said to me, "Chaplain Prain, let us pause and ponder this wondrous thing that God has placed along our path". He was a Major. I was a Captain. So, we both stopped to ponder. What did we stop to ponder? There was an SUV with a spare tire on the back of it (with no protective covering over the spare tire). A spider had spun a web in the hub area of the spare tire. The rabbi had stopped us--as we walked to lunch -- in order to ponder a spider web in an SUV spare tire. For at least five minutes we stood there. Picture it --if you will. Two Army chaplains. In uniform. A Major and a Captain. Both staring at a spider and a spider web that were in the hub of a spare tire on the back of an SUV. We stood there -- staring -- not just for one minute or for two minutes -- but for at least five minutes. At first, we were mostly in silence (which was even more awkward). Then, the Rabbi started to point out various details about the web. The intricate patterns. The strength of the fibers. The ability of the spider to move freely on the web--while flies and other insects became trapped on the same spun fibers. The list of what we observed and "pondered" went on and on. Then, the Rabbi said, "Chaplain Prain, let us pray and give thanks for this wondrous thing--before we go and enjoy our meal.". He was a Major. I was a Captain. So, we prayed and gave thanks to God for the spider and the spider web --and for all of the interesting things about the spider and the web. (The Rabbi also said a prayer for the meal that we were soon to eat). On Isle Royale, do you ever "pause to ponder this wondrous thing that God has placed along our path"? Have you ever stopped and stared at something (like a spider web) for many minutes -- contemplating all of the fine details and intricacies? Do you stop and give thanks for it? Do you engage all of your senses? (-- OR -- are you simply trying to get from Point A to Point B?) CONCLUSION What will you do with your Isle Royale experience? Will it be like a speedy trip through a fast food drive thru (followed by multi-tasking as you "inhale" your food) -- OR -- will it be more like a 4+ hour quality dining experience --where you set everything else aside -- and "live (undistracted) in the moment" and fully experience the food, the friendships, and the setting ---utilizing all of your senses?
Will you rush from place to place on the Island--striving to secure a shelter and completing all of the things on your Isle Royale "to do" list -- OR -- will you be more like the Rabbi --who made me stop for several minutes to simply "pause and ponder this wondrous thing that God has placed along our path". The choice is yours.  Trying to do too much-- in too short of time -- can oftentimes negatively impact your Isle Royale experience. It is almost as if the Island itself (or Mother Nature or "Murphy's Law") actively seek to penalize people who try to do too much in too little time on Isle Royale. The more that you try to pursue a busy (or "tight") schedule while on Isle Royale --the more that the Island, Mother Nature, and Murphy's Law seem to push back at your busy plans and "tight" schedule. My mom had a sign in her kitchen that read: "The hurrier I go -- the behinder I get". One of my co-workers had a sign in her office which read, "Man plans and God laughs (Swedish Proverb)". Those two statements also seem to apply to Isle Royale trips. Murphy's Law & O'Toole's Corollary When I was in a college, a friend had a poster on his dormitory wall that read: MURPHY'S LAW: "Anything that can go wrong--will go wrong." O'TOOLE'S COROLLARY TO MURPHY'S LAW: "Murphy was an F *%# ing optimist." Always keep Murphy and O'Toole at the very front of your mind when planning an Isle Royale trip. O'Toole and Murphy both seem to have special and enhanced "super powers" when it comes to Isle Royale and Lake Superior. Somewhat Unique Transportation IssuesI have traveled quite a bit and I have visited quite a few places. Rarely are me (and my plans) as much at the mercy of "Mother Nature" as when I visit Isle Royale. Ultimately, Mother Nature is going to do whatever Mother Nature is going to do and there isn't very much that we can do about it. Isle Royale National Park is an island (technically, a group of islands) in Lake Superior. There are limited ways to get to and from Isle Royale. Those limited methods of transportation are highly dependent upon the weather. Furthermore, if there are mechanical issues with a seaplane or a ferry (or your private boat), it isn't as if there are spare ones sitting around (not being used) that can be put into service in a matter of minutes or hours. If weather conditions (or the very rare mechanical issue) keeps your mode of transportation from operating --you have few choices but to wait. Such delays can significantly interfere with your Isle Royale plans. Thus, be ready for the delays --and be ready to change your plans. Mother Nature Doesn't Care About Your Plans I once saw a father (and his two young adult sons) who were "stranded" on Isle Royale due to a weather delay with their return transportation. The father's daughter (and the boys' sister) was getting married in one or two days and the longer that the transportation delay dragged on--the less likely it looked like they would get to the wedding in time. I have seen similar things happen with Isle Royale visitors who needed to get back home for planned funerals or who desperately needed to get back home due to strict attendance policies at work, school, or the military. Frankly, Mother Nature does not care how important your event is back home--nor does Mother Nature care if you miss the event. (Neither do Murphy or O'Toole). Therefore, try to not have any important things planned for immediately after your anticipated return from Isle Royale -- because you may regret it. Mother Nature also does not care about your plans (or your itinerary) while you are actually on Isle Royale. And, Murphy and O'Toole will actively work to destroy your plans and your timeline. The shorter your visit -- and the more mileage and activities that you try to squeeze into a very short time frame --the more it is likely that Murphy, O'Toole, and Mother Nature will actively seek you out, find you, and disrupt your plans. REMEMBER: Your transportation TO Isle Royale might be delayed by a few hours--or by one or two DAYS. BAD CASE SCENARIO # 1: You have determined that it will take you exactly four days to hike (or paddle) across the Island. Thus, you plan a very "tight" itinerary and you schedule your return transportation (at the other end of the Island) for exactly four days after your planned arrival on the Island. QUESTION: What is your plan if your transportation TO the Island is delayed by one or two days? Will you be able to hike or paddle across the island in just 2-3 days? (Ferries and seaplanes often tend to be full. Thus, it is not very easy to simply push back your departure time by one or two days and catch another seaplane or another ferry off the Island at that later date). Remember, Mother Nature does not care about your plans. BAD CASE SCENARIO # 2: You spend over $1,400 on transportation to bring your entire family to Isle Royale by seaplane for A DAY TRIP. You have plans to spend eight hours on Isle Royale. Then, your flight TO the Island is delayed by fog for 3-5 hours. You have just paid a whole lot of money for a very short visit to the Island. Here's an even worse case scenario: What if fog or weather issues delay your RETURN flight until the next day --and you came to the Island prepared for only a day trip? (Similar things can happen with ferries--but they happen far less frequently). Mother Nature does not care about your plans. BAD CASE SCENARIO # 3: Your small family plans a 1-2 night stay at the Lodge or the housekeeping cabins. You spend $600-$1,500 on transportation. You spend another $300-$600 on lodging. You have great plans for boating, canoeing, hiking the ridges, traveling by tour boats, etc. Then, lightening storms keep you from hiking the ridges, and wind and waves cancel all of your boating activities and boat tours. Your entire plans for those two days are "ruined". Mother Nature does not care about your plans. BAD CASE SCENARIO # 4: Your hiking or paddling trip encounters some significant delays (or significant re-routing) because of severe (lightening?) storms or wild fires--or someone in your party becomes injured or ill. If you have not intentionally built in a couple of extra days into your trip plan--you could be facing some significant challenges in reaching your departure point on time. Mother Nature does not care about your plans. (A side note: A moose may block your path for 20 to 90 minutes and cause you to get to camp much later than planned). THE SHORTER YOUR ISLE ROYALE VISIT -- AND THE MORE MILEAGE AND THE MORE "STUFF" THAT YOU TRY TO SQUEEZE INTO A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME -- THE MORE LIKELY THAT "MOTHER NATURE" WILL BE ABLE TO INTERFERE WITH YOUR PLANS. Always remember: Mother Nature does not care about your plans! (And, Murphy and O'Toole are actively working to disrupt your plans). What Can You Do About It? Overall, there is little (or nothing) that we can do to change Mother Nature. All that we can do is alter our plans and alter our attitude regarding Mother Nature (and any delays). Here are some suggestions: 1. Less is more. You do not have to try to "experience everything" --nor do you have to try to "see everything" -- in one Isle Royale trip. The bottom line: You can't see and do everything in just one or two trips to Isle Royale ... so don't even try. This summer will be my 20th trip to Isle Royale--and there is still new stuff to see and do. Thus, I would invite you to intentionally scale down your plans. Plan on doing fewer things. Plan on covering MANY fewer miles. Plan on seeing fewer sights (and sites). It will make for a less stressful and more relaxing trip. And, the less that you have planned, the less that Mother Nature (and Murphy and O'Toole) can disrupt. Keep it all very minimal and very simple. 2. DO NOT plan a hike across the Island unless you have AT LEAST a 6-7 day (or longer) visit to the Island planned. If you will be on the Island for less than a week -- please do yourself a favor and confine your trip to one end of the Island and be dropped off and pickup at the exact same spot (either Rock Harbor or Windigo). If you confine your visit to one end of the Island (and have the exact same drop off and pick up site) transportation delays may somewhat alter your plans--but transportation delays won't destroy your plans. Even if you have a four day trip planned -- and your ferry to the Island is delayed by two+ days--you can still travel to the Island on Day # 3--spend an overnight at a campground located within several miles of the dock-- and catch your boat back home on Day # 4. You can't have that sort of flexibility when your return boat (or your return plane) is now supposed to meet you on the other end of the Island--TOMORROW. Therefore, do not try to hike across the Island unless you plan to be on the island for least 6-7 days. (Otherwise, transportation delays, lightening delays, illnesses, and injuries might make your life very miserable or force the entire cancellation of your trip). 3. The fewer "moving parts" that you have in your itinerary the less you will expose yourself to stress and transportation delay issues. Conversely, the more food drops that you have scheduled (by ferry) and the more water taxi (or ferry) drop-offs and pickups that you have scheduled as part of your itinerary the more that you will expose yourself to being negatively impacted by weather and transportation delays. It is fine to have a food drop-off scheduled. However, you better not allow your food supplies be so low--nor have your itinerary so "tight"--that your trip is negatively impacted by a few hour (or couple day) ferry delay. EXPECT that there will be delays and plan accordingly. HYPOTHETICAL SCENARIO: Let's say that you plan on hiking across the Island from Rock Harbor to Windigo in four days and have reservations for the Voyager II ferry back to Rock Harbor on Day # 4 and have reservations to depart from Rock Harbor on Day # 5. What happens if you are delayed in getting to the Island by a day or two? That delay will likely impact you getting to Windigo by the fourth day. Which will impact you catching the Voyager II at Windigo on Day # 4--which will then impact you being at Rock Harbor in time to catch your transportation off of the Island on Day # 5. And, what if the ferry from Windigo to Rock Harbor is delayed by weather for an entire day? Again, you would miss your transportation off of the Island at Rock Harbor. Always remember, Mother Nature does not care about your plans --and neither do Murphy nor O'Toole. 4. Try to have 1-2 extra days built into your trip plan for every major leg of your trip. Imagine if (in the above scenario) your kept the same plan to hike across the island in 4 days --but your plan was modified so that you caught a ferry from Windigo to Rock Harbor on Day # 6 (instead of Day # 4) and you planned to depart the Island on Day # 8 (instead of Day # 5). With this more relaxed and reasonable plan, if your transportation to the Island was delayed by a day or two--you would still have plenty of time to hike across the Island and catch your ferry from Windigo to Rock Harbor. And, if the ferry from Windigo to Rock Harbor was delayed by a day or two--you would still have plenty of time to catch your transportation off of the island. Give yourself more time to complete each leg of your trip. 5. Bring extra food and fuel-- in order to be better prepared if you are delayed getting off of the Island. 6. DO NOT have important things planned for the first couple of days after your anticipated return home. If you REALLY need to be at work, school, a wedding, or a funeral immediately after you get back home--you probably need to schedule a trip that is 1-2 days shorter than you had originally hoped. Sorry, but that is simply the harsh reality (if you really need be someplace just a day or two after your scheduled return home). 7. If you are coming to Isle Royale for just a day trip, there is very little reason to believe that you will be stranded on the Island overnight due to bad weather. There is certainly no need to bring a backpack full of camping gear and supplies (for a day trip). HOWEVER, if you really need certain medications, I would bring enough medications for an extra day or two. I might also bring a warm enough jacket, a wool cap (or "beanie"), a cheap emergency rain poncho, a water bottle, and maybe one of those reflective emergency blankets that is about the size of a deck of cards. I would also bring money and/or especially a credit card--in order to buy food (and pay for a Lodge room --in the rare event that a Lodge room is available). CONCLUSION Mother Nature has a tendency to frequently interfere with people's Isle Royale plans. Thus, you should plan and prepare accordingly. ("Hope for the best--but plan for the worst".) The shorter in duration that your trip is (and/or the more mileage and more "stuff" that you try to squeeze into a very small time frame) -- the greater the chances are that you will attract some unwanted attention from Mother Nature, Murphy's Law, and O'Toole's Corollary. They will seek you out, find you, and "mess with you".
Therefore, keep your plans simple. Don't try to squeeze lots of mileage and lots of stuff into a short period of time. Give yourself some extra --and totally uncommitted--days in your Isle Royale schedule (in order to compensate for any potential delays). Expect that there might be transportation delays. Anticipate that there might be severe weather, illnesses, or injuries that will slow you down and delay you. There is nothing that Mother Nature, Murphy and O'Toole hate more--than a person who is fully prepared for all types of delays. Happy hiking and peaceful paddling!  You Have More Than Three Choices on Isle Royale--You Really Do! The vast majority of people who come to Isle Royale seem to want to do the same three things (and many people advise them to do those same three things). 1) Hike across the Island --using primarily the Greenstone Ridge Trail. 2) Plan their hike around the "dream" of staying at least one night at Moskey Basin. 3) Visit the same 3-5 (overcrowded?) campgrounds on the Eastern (Rock Harbor) end of the Island. (Lane Cove, Three Mile, Daisy Farm, Rock Harbor, Moskey Basin) ---or stay at the Rock Harbor Lodge and housekeeping cabins. There is SO much more to see and do on Isle Royale than just those three things! For your sake --and for other people's sake ---and for the Island's sake--please try something a little different. Let's try to spread out a little bit and add a bit of variety to our Isle Royale trips. My Biases and Preferences I am going to state four of my biases right up front. (I know there are people who will strongly disagree with these comments-- and that is their right). 1. I find hiking across the Island (using primarily the Greenstone Ridge Trail) to be one of the more "underwhelming" and boring hikes on the Island. Except for a few mile section near Mt. Franklin and Mt. Ojibway --there are not a lot of great panoramic views to be seen from along the Greenstone Ridge Trail. (I am not saying there are absolutely no great panoramic views on the Greenstone Ridge Trail outside of that small area--but the other great views on the Greenstone are few and far between). REGARDING THE CAMPGROUNDS ALONG THE GREENSTONE: Personally, I believe that even the "worst" campground on Isle Royale is a far better place to be than most other places on the planet. That being said, if I have the opportunity to skip staying at Island Mine, South Lake Desor, Hatchet Lake--or either of the two Chickenbones -- I try to do so. That is because there are quite a few Isle Royale campgrounds that I like so much better than those that I just mentioned. Let me be clear, I am BY NO MEANS saying to totally avoid these campgrounds and/or avoid the Greenstone Ridge Trail. I am simply saying that there are many other (and, arguably, even better) trails, routes, and campgrounds on Isle Royale. So, don't be in such a rush to automatically want to backpack across the island using primarily the Greenstone Ridge Trail. (A shorter hike--confined to just one side of the Island --can often be a much more satisfying experience than hiking across the Island. So, carefully consider your other options). Here are a couple photos showing some pretty typical views of what you will see for much of your 2-5 days on the Greenstone Ridge Trail.
2. I find Moskey Basin Campground to be PERHAPS "overrated". If you get one of the lakeshore wooden shelters at Moskey Basin--and if the weather is nice-- Moskey Basin is perhaps one of the best campgrounds and best experiences on Isle Royale. However, if you don't get one of those six shelters (or if the weather is hazy, foggy, or rainy), Moskey Basin is (in my never humble opinion) just another (slightly better than average) Isle Royale campground. The views from the tent sites and group sites (which double as an overflow camping area) oftentimes don't permit you to even see the lake from your campsite. And, sometimes, Moskey Basin can be one of the most overcrowded campgrounds on the Island. I am not saying to completely avoid Moskey Basin. However, I certainly would not build my trip around a dream of staying at Moskey Basin. I would also be prepared to perhaps be somewhat disappointed with the "Moskey Basin Experience" if I couldn't get one of the lakeside shelters and had to stay at a crowded "overflow" tent site with no view of the lake. Here are two pictures from Moskey Basin. One was taken standing outside of a shelter on the lakeshore and the other is from a crowded overflow campground--with lots of tents and lots of people and no view of the lake. Which would you prefer? You can see the big difference getting one of the six shelters can make.
3. There Is More to Isle Royale Than Just Five Campgrounds. Many (most?) people (who visit Isle Royale) will stay at just five locations for most (or all) of their trip. Those five places are Rock Harbor (campground, Lodge, or cabins); Three Mile Campground; Daisy Farm Campground; Moskey Basin Campground; and Lane Cove Campground. While there is nothing "wrong" with that--it sure tends to make things overcrowded at those five locations. It also gives someone a fairly limited Isle Royale experience. In the image (below) you will see a map of Isle Royale. Many (or most) people who visit Isle Royale never leave the area in red--or rarely leave the red area. There is so much more to see and do--and it helps everyone--and the Island--if we spread out a bit.  4. Many people lack the physical conditioning (and experience) to hike the entire length of the Minong Ridge Trail. Thus, hiking the entire Minong Ridge Trail is not a safe and wise alternative for many people. LET ME BE CLEAR --- I am not a person who believes that the Minong Ridge Trail is a big scary trail that is (by its nature) an extremely tough and super dangerous trail. HOWEVER, I do firmly believe that a great many visitors to Isle Royale lack the conditioning and outdoor experience necessary to hike the entire Minong Ridge Trail safely and successfully. (NOTE: The section of the Minong Ridge Trail between McCargoe Cove and the junction to Hatchet Lake is o.k. for most --but not all--people. It is easier than the rest of the Minong). In general, the Minong Ridge Trail is very poorly marked. The trail is intentionally poorly maintained. Many people get temporarily "lost" (multiple times) while on the Minong Ridge Trail. Water sources are few and far between. The trail is rocky and has countless ups and downs. It goes through swamps and bogs and over the top of a few wet and muddy beaver dams. Sometimes you have to walk through creeks or over a very twisted and shaky single log. It can sometimes be pretty isolated and lonely on the Minong. (I once went 28 hours on the Minong Ridge Trail without seeing another person). If you become sick or injured, it may be 12-30 hours before help can be contacted and you can be evacuated and arrive at a medical facility. In short, this isn't the place for a person who is out-of-shape or who lacks outdoor skills and experience, or who is not able to be completely self-sufficient in the wilderness (even when injured or ill). Thus, if you want to do something "different" while on Isle Royale--for many people hiking the entire Minong Ridge Trail is NOT a good alternative --given their conditioning, experience level, and navigational abilities. I will include some Minong Ridge Trail photos below (Click to enlarge). These are all pictures of the actual trail and not scenery. TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT! Instead of doing the same things that many other people are doing---maybe try something different (different than what the crowds are doing and/or different than what you may have done on different trips). For more information regarding each of these ideas, you can contact me directly (either via private Facebook message or email: [email protected]); or you visit my personal Isle Royale website theisleroyalguy.com and look at all of the information pages and the helpful links page on my site; or (as always) you can visit the Official National Park Service Isle Royale website. (Click here) HERE ARE JUST SOME POSSIBLE IDEAS: 1. If you tend to stay at the Lodge and/or cabins--consider getting into the backcountry and doing some backpacking, paddling, and/or camping. 2. If you tend to stay in the backcountry (camping, hiking, and paddling)--consider staying at the Lodge or a cabin --for at least one night. (Note: They Lodge rooms and cabins are already mostly booked for 2024--you would have to check frequently for a cancellation and hope to be the lucky one who times things right and gets the vacated room or cabin. You can start booking a year in advance). 3. If you are a usually a backpacker--consider doing a canoe or kayak trip. If you are typically a paddler, consider a backpacking trip. 4. If you tend to stay on the East (Rock Harbor) end of the Island--consider a trip to the West (Windigo) end (and vice-versa). 5. There are several ways to get to/from the Island. Try using one that you haven't tried before. A) The Ranger III ferry (Houghton Michigan). B) The Isle Royale Seaplanes (Hancock, Michigan and Grand Marais, Minnesota). C) The Voyager II and Sea Hunter III ferries (Grand Portage, Minnesota). D) The Isle Royale Queen IV ferry (Copper Harbor, Michigan). E) Charter trips with private companies (there are backpacking outfitters and guides, private transport and tour companies, sailing charters, fishing charters, scuba diving charters, youth camps that make trips to the Island, etc. (Click here for the currently published official list. New ones might not have been added yet to the website list). F) A person can use their own private boat--and they may even be able to transport it to the Island on the Ranger III---or pilot it to the Island across Lake Superior. Again, try something different than what you have done in the past--but always do so legally and safely 6. Instead of starting your actual backpacking or paddling at either Rock Harbor or Windigo --consider using a water taxi or the Voyager II (or maybe even a private charter boat) to either drop you off and/or pick you up at some other location on the Island than at Rock Harbor or Windigo. Some examples: Be dropped off at a place like Chippewa Harbor or Malone Bay and backpack to Rock Harbor (or maybe backpack from the drop off point to Windigo). A friend and I (and a canoe) were dropped off by the Voyager II at McCargoe Cove--and we paddled and portaged our way back to Rock Harbor. Be dropped off at McCargoe Cove and hike to Chippewa Harbor or Malone Bay and be picked up there. There are many ways to mix and match the available drop off and pick up locations. You don't have to only start at Rock Harbor or Windigo. Be creative! 7. IF YOU ARE IN GOOD PHYSICAL SHAPE AND HAVE GOOD BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING, NAVIGATION, AND WILDERNESS SELF-SUFFICIENCY EXPERIENCE -- maybe consider backpacking the length of the Minong Ridge Trail. 8. Backpack the Feldtmann Loop and/or Huginnin Loop trails. 9. I want to list this particular option once again--as its own separate item. Consider using one of the many commercial guide, tour, and/or adventure services who have permits from the National Park Service to do business with park visitors The official published list is here. (Click here.) (Sometimes it takes a few months for newly approved entities to make it to the list on the website) 10, Create itineraries that take you away from the usual 4-6 typical campgrounds used by so many people. I --and other people --can perhaps help you plan an itinerary that fits your situation. 11. Plan longer trips--so that you have more time to get to places other than just the typical ones located close to the main transportation docks (in Windigo and Rock Harbor). Short trips (4-6 days or less) limit how far you can venture from the major transportation docks. 12. Consider renting a boat, canoe, or kayak for the day in Windigo or Rock Harbor. 13. Take a tour on the MV Sandy--a tour boat operating out of Rock Harbor. Visit places (via the Sandy) that you can't hike to (unless you can walk on water). Just remember--backpackers and paddlers can also rent watercraft for the day at the marinas and/or take a tour on the Sandy. These amenities are NOT just for Lodge and cottage guests. 14. Instead of hiking across the Island using JUST the Greenstone Ridge Trail--find ways to "spice up" that cross Island hike--by getting off of the Greenstone Ridge Trail periodically and detour through other (more interesting?) places for a day or two. Maybe see a part (or all) of the Feldtmann Loop as part of your hike across the Island. Maybe drop down to Malone Bay, or Chippewa Harbor, or Moskey Basin --instead of staying solely on the Greenstone Ridge Trail. Perhaps, leave the Greenstone Ridge Trail and (in either direction) hike on the easier section of the Minong Ridge Trail that lies between the Hatchet Lake Junction and McCargoe Cove. (And, stay at Todd Harbor and McCargoe Cove instead of Hatchet Lake and the Chickenbones). Maybe visit Lane Cove. BOTTOM LINE: Do more than just hike on the Greenstone Ridge Trail as you cross the Island. See some other places and other trails. Take a couple more days for your journey and stay at a couple of campgrounds other than just those located on (or near) the Greenstone Ridge Trail. Spice it up! 15. If you are very skilled with remote wilderness camping and are good with traveling cross-country through thick ground cover using a map and compass (never bring and use JUST a GPS system)--you might perhaps consider doing some cross-country (i.e. off-trail) hiking and camping on Isle Royale. (I personally think you should have also been to Isle Royale at least 2-3 previous times before attempting cross country camping and hiking on the Island). The terrain is slow and difficult to navigate. There is much thick underbrush and numerous obstacles. You may encounter large swamps and bogs. There are many rules to follow and special permitting needed (See here). However, you will have great solitude and perhaps see places few other people will see. Again, I can't stress enough, this is "expert" level stuff--not beginner or "first-timer" (on Isle Royale) stuff. Heck, it is easy enough to sometimes get disoriented or "lost" just stepping off of the trail a couple hundred feet in order to go to the bathroom. Cross country hiking and camping takes that "risk" to a significantly higher level. CONCLUSIONThere are many ways to enjoy Isle Royale, Thus, please don't stick to the same 3-4 ideas. Find ways to spread out and see new things! Again, if you want some free help planning your trip--reach out to me via a Facebook private message or email me at [email protected]
 Planning Your Isle Royale Trip Is ImportantIsle Royale is probably different than many places that you will visit. Isle Royale is the type of place where a failure to PLAN your trip in advance (and a failure to properly PREPARE for your trip--in advance) can cause you to have a very frustrating and disappointing experience. A failure to plan and prepare may also lead to illness and injury. One of the biggest challenges of Isle Royale is its remoteness. You can't just jump in your car and drive to Isle Royale--nor (once you are at Isle Royale) can you just jump back in your car and leave whenever you want. For all practical purposes, you can only reach (and leave) Isle Royale in three ways: 1) Seaplane (for which you need advance reservations). 2) Ferries (for which you need advance reservations). 3) Private watercraft. Furthermore, you usually need to be pretty self-sufficient at isle Royale (especially if hiking, paddling, or boating in the "backcountry"). It you didn't bring something that you will need --there is a pretty good chance that you might NOT be able to acquire the item once you are on the Island. Plan well and pack appropriately. Advance planing, research, and preparation are essential for a successful Isle Royale trip. You May Need to Plan and Reserve Things Up to a Year in Advance As I write this (on January 1, 2024) many/most nights at the Rock Harbor Lodge, Rock Harbor housekeeping cabins, and Windigo camper cabins--are already booked to capacity--or are getting filled very fast--for the entire 2024 season. There are no waiting lists kept. In many instances, your only hope now (to book lodging for 2024) is that someone cancels their lodging reservations and you are fortunate enough to discover the cancellation and book your own lodging immediately. Reserve your lodging NOW--and if your dates are already not available, keep checking the reservation website regularly and frequently for cancellations. Transportation does not usually fill as fast as lodging. HOWEVER, in 2023, already in February I could not book all of the transportation for the dates that I wanted for my 2023 trip. I had to modify my preferred 2023 trip dates. Again, this was IN FEBRUARY! The same was true in early March 2022. I could not book the exact dates that I wanted. I needed to be flexible in my trip dates--IN EARLY MARCH! You will hear occasional stories of people who planned their Isle Royale trip on very short notice-- in the middle of summer--and were able to get transportation and lodging--with no problems. Such things can (and do) sometimes happen--but they are not the norm. Yes, you might be able to plan and book your Isle Royale trip on very short notice during the middle of the Summer--but I sure wouldn't count on it. Book your Isle Royale transportation and lodging reservations NOW! DO YOUR (OWN) RESEARCH! There is SO much for a person to learn prior to coming to Isle Royale (especially before coming to the backcountry areas). You need to do your research. Here are just a few of the many things you will need to know.
SOME PLANNING RESOURCES The BEST (and most authoritative) resource for your Isle Royale visit is the official National Park Service Isle Royale website. www.nps.gov/isro/index.htm There is a "First timers Guide" on the official Isle Royale NPS website: www.nps.gov/isro/planyourvisit/first-timer-s-guide.htm There is much helpful information in the Park's annual newspaper (THE GREENSTONE). Here is a link to the 2023 edition of the Greenstone. The 2024 edition will likely be published in late February or early March 2024. www.nps.gov/isro/upload/Web-Ready-2023-Greenstone.pdf There is a very active Facebook group called "ISLE ROYALE NATIONAL PARK COMMUNITY". It has over 18,300 members. (You have ask to join the group). www.facebook.com/groups/43490726251 A very helpful book is the (fifth edition of) ISLE ROYALE NATIONAL PARK: FOOT TRAILS AND WATER ROUTES (by Jim DuFresne) (LINK HERE) There is my own website: THE ISLE ROYAL GUY (theisleroyaleguy.com) My site is absolutely free and has all sorts of great information. There is a page with many helpful articles and topics. (Click Here: Helpful Information). There is a page with links to just about every possible Isle Royale webpage--arranged by major topic. (Click here for "Helpful Links). You simply won't believe what you will find when you browse through those dozens of helpful links. I have a page with many photos of Isle Royale--including moose pictures, trail pictures, sunrises and sunsets, other animals, and many other photos (Click here for "Photos"). There is a page with several trip reports from some of my 19 trips to Isle Royale. Those trip reports also have many photos. (Click Here for "Trip Reports"). There are my Isle Royale blog pages were I discuss countless Isle Royale topics and share my opinions. (Click Here for "Blog Posts"). I like to help people plan their trips, develop customized itineraries, and answer questions. I prefer to be contacted through Facebook private messages or via email. [email protected] Feel free to contact me. Another helpful site is ISLE ROYALE FORUMS. (Click here). I also like the WISE OLD MAN OF ISLE ROYALE website maintained by Duane L'Esperance and Beth Virtanen. CLICK HERE for "Wise Old Man of Isle Royale") CONCLUSION It is important to plan your Isle Royale trip far in advance. Use the links provided above (and the many pages of links on each of those websites) to help you plan your trip. Again, the best, first, and most authoritative source to consult is always the official National Park Service Isle Royale website. (Click here for the Official website)
While I understand that some people firmly believe that they "can only" make a short visit to Isle Royale--I do not personally recommend it. (NOTE: I am not talking about private boaters--as they are an entirely different situation. The same is true of people with medical or physical limitations which might necessitate a shorter trip).
Some people will state that they will be doing other things (and visiting other parks) while in the Great Lakes region. Thus, they ONLY have part of a day (or an overnight) that they can devote to seeing Isle Royale. I would personally suggest that they consider reducing or eliminating the amount of time devoted to some of those OTHER things and devote more time on the Isle Royale part of their trip. Unlike many other National Parks--Isle Royale is not a National Park that (in my opinion) easily lends itself to brief visits. Part of that is due to the remote nature of Isle Royale and the amount of time, money, and effort that it takes just to get to/from the island. Another reason why Isle Royale is not well suited to short visits--is the fact that so little of the park (and its main "attractions") are located at the locations where a visitor arrives and departs from the Island. It takes a couple hours of walking, paddling, or boating in order to get to much of "the good stuff". Thus, you can't see/do very much during just a short visit to Isle Royale. Here are my reasons for discouraging short trips to Isle Royale: 1) Coming to Isle Royale for a day--or for one overnight-- is similar to traveling to Europe or the Caribbean --being there for 24 hours or less--and never leaving the airport (or the area within 5 miles of the airport). You haven't really experienced Europe or the Caribbean in such a scenario--and you don't really experience Isle Royale on these super short visits. Yes, you have been to the "airport", you've gotten your passport stamped, you perhaps ate a meal at the airport restaurant and/or stayed overnight at a hotel next to the airport--but that's about it. There is not very much that you can see or do on a short trip to Isle Royale. 2) One day of very bad weather (or one day of mechanical issues with your mode of transportation) can wipe out your your entire short trip ---if that one day happens to be the day of your scheduled trip. You will have done all of that planning and preparing --for nothing. 3) Even if your mode of transportation DOES operate on a day with somewhat bad weather-- heavy rain, waves, and cold breezes make for a pretty miserable few hour visit to the Island (or even a miserable 24 hour visit). Plus, some activities--like renting watercraft and maybe some tours--could be cancelled due to poor weather. Spending more days on the Island gives you a better chance to work around any potential periods of bad weather. 4) This one is totally based upon PERSONAL PREFERENCE and each person's individual perspective of what is "too costly": A short trip to Isle Royale is typically a fairly expensive and time consuming proposition. It takes a lot of planning and travel time to come to Isle Royale (unless you live fairly close to the dock or airport). Unless you take a day trip on the Sea Hunter out of Grand Portage MN --for $99 per person in 2023)--a day trip or overnight on all other modes of transportation will cost between $160 to $720 PER PERSON --just for the transportation. If you take a boat to/from Isle Royale--you will be traveling on the water anywhere from 3 to nearly 8 hours ROUND TRIP. That is a sizeaable portion of the day. 5) For a day trip, you will likely have less time on the Island than you initially think. FIRST--you have assume and hope that everything is going as scheduled --and not running behind schedule. SECOND: It's not as if the boat or plane lands at Isle Royale and 30 seconds later you are already exploring the Island. It is going to take some time for everyone to disembark. It will take at least a moment for everyone to be welcomed by the park staff and for you to get oriented as to where you are and where you want to go. This all cuts into your available time for actual exploring and enjoying. THIRD: You have to be back to the boat or plane departure area about 15-20 minutes prior to the scheduled departure time. Thus, on a day trip, (when all is said and done --and as you lose some time at the start and end of the visit) you probably have 30 to 45 minutes LESS time for exploring than the schedule might initially indicate. That is a sizeable chunk of time out of an already brief visit--and it can impact what things you can actually do. According to the published schedules, the Isle Royale Queen arrives at Rock Harbor around 11:45 a.m (Eastern time) and departs Isle Royale at 2:45 p.m. (Eastern time). That is a maximum of three hours--but probably closer to 2.5 hours for actual exploring of the Rock Harbor area. The Sea Hunter arrives at Windigo at approximately 10:00 a.m. (CENTRAL TIME--yes they operate totally on central time) and departs at 2:00 p.m. (Central time). That is just four hours--but really closer to 3.5 hours to explore the Windigo area. What can you really do in 2.5 to 3.5 hours? 6) Just remember, on Lake Superior--"weather happens"--and quite often--weather happens in a fairly unpredictable fashion. What is your plan if you get to the Northwoods--and weather CANCELS (or delays) your brief visit to the island? Where will you stay? What will you do? There are occasions when hotels (and some campgrounds) on the mainland are full--for a few hour radius. Where will you stay? What if you get to Isle Royale--but bad weather delays your departure by hours--or by a day or more? Isle Royale lodging is often fully booked up months in advance. Thus, it is not always as simple as ... "I will just get myself a room at the Lodge". What if poor weather causees a several hour transportation delay--and you get back to the mainland at midnight--instead of around 4 p.m.? What is your plan for weather delays? Bad weather can cause problems for an Isle Royale trip of any length-- but weather can even more profoundly impact a short trip. ++++++++++++++ All of this boils down to personal choices. ("Hike Your Own Hike"). People are certainly able to enjoy Isle Royale for as short of a period of time as they wish. They are also certainly free to spend as much money as they wish on a short visit. ("Day Trippers " account for an important percentage of the income of the transportation companies--and probably are a key to them staying in business). HOWEVER, it is my personal recommendation that a person spend AT LEAST four days (3 nights) on Isle Royale--and PREFERABLY 6 days (five nights) OR LONGER -- if they plan on getting out of Rock Harbor or Windigo and going into the Isle Royale backcountry. Anything shorter than that will likely feel overly rushed, not permit you to see very much of the Island, and probably not be an very efficient or wise use of one's money and time. Instead of doing a short visit to Isle Royale, I would personally recommend that you put off your Isle Royale trip until such time as you can spend a bit more time there. (Better yet, find ways to move heaven and earth in order to have a longer visit to Isle Royale during this upcoming season). IF YOU ARE NOT FEELING WELL - -OR IF YOU ARE INJURED --DON'T KEEP PUSHING FARTHER INTO THE WILDERNESS!
Prior to my recent Isle Royale trip, Ken Smith suggested a blog idea for my Isle Royale website (but I am going to post it here instead). I would encourage Ken to post the longer version of his story in the comments, but the shorter version is this: Ken woke up at Todd Harbor feeling nauseous. He was already camping and set up at Todd Harbor. Todd Harbor has a dock, a wooden shelter, and typically has fellow campers available to help out a sick or injured person. Instead of "staying put" at Todd Harbor, the nauseous Ken chose to pack up his campsite and press on further into the back country--and head to Little Todd Harbor. En route to Little Todd Harbor, Ken's nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, exhaustion, and dehydration got so bad that he was actually falling asleep right in the middle of the trail. He could barely move down the trail at all. He eventually had to push his emergency beacon for rescue. It took 45 minutes to get a response to his request for help and another 2.5 hours for help to arrive. He was told that the help would be arriving at Little Todd Harbor and would come down the trail looking for him. Ken managed to stagger to Little Todd Harbor and he met the rescuers when the arrived there. The rangers took him to Windigo. Ken sums things up by saying (in retrospect) he should have stayed at Todd Harbor when he first started feeling nauseous--and not pressed on (further) into the wilderness and away from the campground where he was already safe and set up and near a dock. Ken's advice and warnings were in my mind when I arrived at Windigo on August 16th. I had experienced back issues off and on for much of this summer. It was nothing bad--just annoying and uncomfortable. However, on August 15th--I felt the best that I had felt in months. During my long drive to Grand Portage, I was slightly uncomfortable from sitting--so I slightly stretched my back while I drove. As I stretched my back, something in my back "popped" loudly --and IMMEDIATELY my back felt the best it had felt all summer. My back felt GREAT for almost all of August 15th. Something that was "out of whack" was finally back in place. I woke up in my hotel room on August 16th, feeling somewhat sore again. I just figured it was due to me sleeping in a hotel bed, me being nearly 62 years old, and me having traveled 570 miles by car. So, I left my hotel and boarded the boat for the Island. My pre-decided plan was to NOT leave Windigo that first day. I also figured that this already planned overnight at Windigo would give me and my back more time to rest. It rained fairly hard overnight, so I decided to spend Day # 2 at Windigo also. (I had a 14 day trip and a very flexible schedule). I intentionally woke up long before sunrise on the morning of Day # 3,--with plans to start hiking prior to dawn using my headlamp. I wanted to cover at least 25 miles that day. (which is not unheard of for me). Hence, the pre-dawn start. My back was slightly "sore" but nothing unusual for an old guy sleeping on the wooden floor of a shelter. I cleared out my shelter. I hiked to the Windigo dock area--because I wanted to start my hike at the Windigo sign. My back started feeling slightly "uncomfortable" as I walked from the Washington Creek Campground to the Windigo dock with my pack on. After being by the dock, filling my water containers at the spigot, and taking a flash photo of the Windigo sign, I started to hike back toward the campground and toward the start of the Greenstone Ridge Trail. My back was NOT feeling better. In fact, it was feeling worse. Thus, I went back to the campground. I reclaimed "my" shelter, and I went back to sleep. When I woke up, my back was still "uncomfortable". My choices for the coming days were: OPTION # 1: Push on with my original plan to hike across the Island on the Greenstone (and then hike BACK to Windigo via the Minong Ridge Trail). OPTION # 2: Play it relatively safe. Rest my back a great deal. And, (due to consecutive night stay limits) spend the next two weeks doing occasional 4-8 mile hikes from Windigo to places like Huginnin Cove, Island Mine, or Feldtmann Lake (and then back to Windigo). OPTION # 3: Try to see if I could get early transportation off of the Island. If my back (while carrying a pack) was sore and uncomfortable--just hiking from the Washington Creek Campground to the Windigo dock--then Option # 1--seemed extremely foolhardy and unsafe. Option # 2 seemed probably "doable"---but uncomfortable and with the potential for even worse back issues to emerge at places away from Windigo.. Thus, I opted to pursue Option #3. I learned that the Sea Hunter III had one or two available seats for their trip that day back to Grand Portage (and back to the place where my car was parked). Thus, I vacated "my" shelter for the second time that day and took the Sea Hunter III back to the mainland. I spent a day on the Minnesota North Shore--and spent the next 9 days--dividing my time between my brother's cabin and my sister's cabin -- both in Northern Wisconsin. I got home after 10 p.m. on August 27th. I think Ken Smith's recent rescue experience ... and my recent back issues -- illustrate the importance of NOT pushing farther into the wilderness when you are ill or injured. If at all possible, try to stay where you are --in a safe place that has the best chance of rescue and relative safety. Thankfully, Ken was able to use his rescue beacon and he got to Windigo with the help of rangers--and he got early transport off of the Island (and he didn't die while passed out sick, exhausted, and alone on the Minong Ridge Trail). And, I was able to slowly and painfully carry my pack to the Windigo dock (and then to my car) and I relaxed in the safety of some northern Wisconsin cabins that had cell phone and internet access if needed (and, I was under the watchful eyes of family members). That is far more desirable than being carried out of the wilderness on a stretcher or backboard. If you are sick or injured, try to not push farther into the wildreness--hoping that things will somehow magically get better. Play it safe. "Stay put" at an established campground where help and rescue (and fellow campers) can be of assistance. This morning, I started thinking about all the ACTS OF KINDNESS that I have experienced on Isle Royale over the years. I will share JUST SOME of the MANY times where I have been the beneficiary of people's kindness. I am guessing that you will have others to add from your own experiences.
-- The numerous people who have shared shelters and tent sites with me--especially when the weather was bad and/or when overcrowding was a big problem. -- People (especially --but not only-- boaters) who had extra food and beverages that they shared--simply because they wanted other people to "enjoy". I have enjoyed some great cooked fish many times, eaten a full --multi-course--breakfast in the middle of nowhere, shared many pizzas, been given hot homemade soup on a cold day, had some very nice Italian-style meals, popcorn, freshly grilled burgers, corn on the cob, ice cold drinks on a hot day, ice cream (one time, somebody MADE hand-cranked homemade ice cream and shared it). --Boaters who asked if I had any trash that I wanted to get rid of (and they would take it to the mainland for me--so I wouldn't have to keep carrying it). This was much appreciated on approximately day # 8 of a two week backpacking trip. -- People who have said things like: "We already have our filter out. Go grab your water bottles and we'll filter a couple of quarts for you." --Tours of the interiors of some very nice boats. --People who have shared heath and personal care supplies (medications, bandages, ointments, different types of tape, shared their ideas regarding other ways to deal with things like blisters and "hot spots". (Most of the time, I have had the supplies that I needed--but someone else perhaps had something different that they thought might be better--so they said "Here, try this."). --Everyone who has ever shared information regarding trail conditions, campground conditions, latest weather reports, blue-green algae bloom and wildfire updates, and/or answered the common question "How far is it to _______?" --People who have started and helped maintain camp fires (and helped put them out). -- People who have shared their vocal and instrumental music abilities. This is just a very partial list--because my list could go on and on. What acts of kindness have YOU experienced on Isle Royale?
 From time-to-time, various people discuss bringing military MREs on their Isle Royale trips. (MRE stands for "Meals Ready to Eat" or "Meals Rejected by Everyone" -- depending upon who you speak to ).
I am a longtime outdoors person and a former longtime member of the military. In my (never humble) opinion, MRE's are perhaps one of THE WORST meal choices to bring to a wilderness area --and there are so many better meal alternatives which exist. One cool feature of MREs is the heater packet. Just add water, and a chemical reaction creates extreme heat--which then heats the meal. THE PROBLEM IS--you also have to PACK OUT--the (now) wet and smelly heater packet in your trash. The heater pack actually WEIGHS MORE going out of the wilderness than when you carried it in. MREs themselves are a fairly heavy food choice. The meals (for the most part) have no dehydrated or freeze-dried components. Thus, you are carrying the full "liquid" and full "moisture" weight associated with every meal component. Each MRE weighs 18-26 oz. If a person were to bring "just" two MREs with them per day--that is 2.25 to 3.25 pounds per day THREE MREs per day, could weigh nearly 5 lbs. (fully packaged). For a 7 day trip, that is 16-34 lbs of food (depending upon the weight of each specific MRE and the number of MREs per day). The amount of packaging (i.e. trash) with MREs is extreme and heavy. Even if someone "stripped" the MRE of all of the excess stuff --while still at home--the remaining MRE components would STILL have lots of heavy and bulky trash. Many people are critical of the taste of MREs. (Then again, since the very beginning of ancient militaries, soldiers have been famous for their ability to complain.). There is much anecdotal evidence--and a tiny bit of scientific evidence -- indicating that consuming MREs can increase the likelihood of constipation. In summary: MREs are bulky, heavy, create lots of heavy trash, may not taste very good--and MIGHT cause constipation. Gee, why doesn't EVERYBODY want to rush right out buy a bunch of MREs to take on their next Isle Royale trip! LOL  Purchasing ultralight (or super ultralight) gear and clothing can sometimes be rather expensive. However, there are also several ways to greatly reduce your pack weight without it costing you "an arm and a leg". Here are some free (or fairly inexpensive) ways to lighten the load. LEAVE STUFF AT HOME It might sound silly (and simple), but one of the easiest (and FREE) ways to lighten your pack weight is to simply LEAVE ITEMS AT HOME and don't bring as much stuff with you on your trip. People are certainly free to bring WHATEVER they want with them on a backpacking (or paddling trip). However, it is very difficult to bring "everything" and still have a low pack weight. Thus, you will probably have to leave some stuff at home if you want to lower your pack weight. What particular "stuff" you leave at home will vary from person to person. What I consider to be an optional item -- you may consider to be an essential item (or vice-versa). Here are some items that I frequently leave at home:
BRING LIGHTER VERSIONS OF THE SAME STUFFI am going to guess that most of you already own quite a bit of gear and clothing--and SOMETIMES you have a choice between bringing the HEAVIER version or the LIGHTER version of some items. When you have a choice, I USUALLY recommend bringing the lighter version of the item. MINDSET IS EVERYTHING Fractions of ounces add up to whole ounces. Whole ounces add up to pounds. It might not seem like very much to save only a half ounce here--or just 2-3 ounces there. However, it adds up. HYPOTHETICAL EXAMPLE: Let's say that you have 32 items in your pack. If you save (on average) just a half ounce per item (by carrying something lighter) -- multiply that meager weight savings times 32 items and you save one pound. Save an average of one ounce per item -- for 32 items -- and you will lower your pack weight by 2 lbs. If you lower the average weight of each item by two ounces--you lower your entire pack weight by 4 lbs. !!! Mindset and attitude are EVERYTHING when it comes lowering pack weight. On one hand, you can think to yourself: "That extra ounce isn't very much--so I will just bring that extra item or that tiny bit heavier item. It doesn't really matter". Before long, you will have ADDED a couple of more pounds to your pack weight. Conversely, if you adopt a mindset that EVERY fraction of an ounce matters and it adds up (and if you pack accordingly) you can easily DROP 2-3 pounds from your pack weight. Mindset and attitude are EVERYTHING. GET A DIGITAL KITCHEN OR POSTAL SCALE A digital kitchen scale or digital postal scale are not very expensive. However, using such a scale can go a long way in helping you reduce your overall pack weight. Get yourself a scale and weigh EVERYTHING and use an item's weight in helping you make your packing decisions. HOW I USE THE SCALE Here is a typical example of how I use my scale to help me make decisions for backpacking trips on Isle Royale. I have LOTS or nice wool backpacking socks. I could very easily just throw two random pairs of socks into my pack. HOWEVER, some pairs weigh 5 ounces. Some weigh four ounces. Other pairs weigh three ounces. Two 5 oz. pairs of socks weigh 10 ounces. Two 3 oz. pairs of socks weigh just 6 ounces. If I bring two 3 oz. pairs.--that is a four ounce savings. That doesn't sound like very much--but WAIT there's more! I have an 8 ounce pair of shorts and a 4 oz. pair of shorts. If I bring the lighter pair--I save four more ounces. A 5 ounce pair of underwear or a 3 ounce pair of underwear--two more ounces saved. A five ounce t-shirt or a three ounce t-shirt? Two more ounces. A wool "beanie" hat to wear on a cold night-- do I bring the 5 oz. beanie or 1 ounce beanie? Four more ounces saved. All I did (on those few clothing items) was weigh the items THAT I ALREADY OWNED -- and decide to bring the lighter choices on my trip. In doing so, I cut 1 pound from my pack weight. Those few instances (regarding clothing) were not the only times where I used the scale to save weight from among ITEMS I ALREADY OWNED! Here are just a few more ways. Which item would you choose?
Using the kitchen scale (and weighing everything) helps me make good decisions from among the gear and clothing items THAT I ALREADY OWN. I am able to reduce my pack weight significantly--just by making smarter (and lighter) choices. Cutting an ounce here and 4 ounces there--- can soon add up to entire pounds of pack weight that have been reduced. FOUR BIG PURCHASES The intent of this article is to focus upon FREE (or inexpensive) ways to reduce your overall pack weight. However, I do wish to make a slight detour and speak about four major purchases that you can make that WILL COST QUITE A BIT OF MONEY but will reduce your pack weight DRAMATICALLY! Those "Big Four" items are:
BACKPACK An Osprey Aether 70 backpack (for men) weighs 6.1 pounds. An Osprey Atmos AG LT 65 weighs roughly 4.1 lbs. The ULA Catalyst backpack weighs 2 lbs 13 oz. The ULA Circuit weighs 2 lbs 6 oz. The ULA Ohm weighs 2 lbs 2 oz. The Gossamer Gear Mariposa weighs 19 ounces. The Gossamer Gear Murmur weighs 13.2 ounces. These are all VERY different backpacks with VERY different load bearing and volume capacities. There is a big difference in durability. However, there is also a HUGE difference in the weight. (Over 5 lbs difference between the heaviest and lightest packs on this list. TENT (or Shelter) The Marmot Tungsten 2-person tent weighs 5 lbs 11 oz. The Kelty Grand Mesa 2 person tent weighs 4 lbs 12 oz. Gossamer Gear "The Two" (2 person tent) weighs 1 lb. 12 oz. The Z-packs Duplex (2 person) tent weighs 1 lb. 4 oz. Just like with the backpacks, these tents vary greatly in what you get (i.e. floor vs. no floor. Separate tent poles versus using a trekking pole to support the tent). However, the weight difference between the Marmot Tungsten and the Z-packs Duplex is a whopping 4 lbs 7 ounces. (And, Mountain Laurel Designs 2-person TARP--weighs just 7.5 ounces--if you want to use a tarp instead of a tent) Sleeping Bag (or Quilt) The Coleman Brazos 30 Sleeping Bag weighs 5.0 lbs. The Mountainsmith Antero 35 Sleeping Bag weighs 2 lbs 14 ounces. The Big Agnes Buell 30 Sleeping bag weighs 2 lbs 11 oz. The REI Magma 30 Sleeping bag weighs 1 lb. 4 ounces. The Enlightened Equipment (Revelation) 30 Degree quilt weighs 1 lb. 2 oz. The Enlightened Equipment Enigma 30 degree Quilt-- 16.4 ounces. The Z-Packs Solo 30 Degree Quilt weighs 13.3 ounces. Once again, we see big differences in what you are getting. However, when it comes to just the weight, the difference between the Coleman Brazos and the Z-packs Solo 30 is over 4 lbs. 2 ounces. Sleeping Pad The Thermarest Basecamp Sleeping Pad (self inflating) weighs 2 lbs. 8 ounces. Thermarest NeoAir Topo weighs 1 lb. 7 ounces. Thermarest NeoAir XLite NXT Sleeping Pad weighs 11.5 ounces. Thermarest NeoAir Uberlite "Summer" sleeping pad weighs just 8.8 ounces. The difference in weight between the heaviest and lightest sleeping pads on this list is nearly 2 pounds. A SUMMARY REGARDING BIG FOUR PURCHASES: With JUST these four items, the difference in weight between the heaviest items listed and the lightest items listed in over 15 lbs. That is a significant drop in weight. Please note: Not every one of these items will fit every person's backpacking style or preferences. HOWEVER, the weight reductions are indeed significant and worth noting The cost is also significant. If you were to make all of these purchases in one year, you could easily spend $1,200 to $2,000. That is a lot of money for just four items. However, if you could somehow manage to make ONE major purchase per year (for a few consecutive years) , you could drop 2 to four pounds in pack weight each year (and 10-15 pounds total over a few year period). That is quite a bit of weight reduction. CONCLUSIONThe focus of this article has been reducing pack weight WITHOUT SPENDING A LOT OF MONEY. Imagine -- if you reduced your pack weight by 2-4 lbs--just by what you chose to leave at home (and not bring with you) in terms of clothing and gear. Further imagine, that you reduced the total weight of your food by 2 lbs (by simply packing a few ounces less food per day). Finally, imagine reducing your pack weight by 2-4 pounds by packing the lighter versions of stuff that you already own. You could easily drop 6-10 pounds of pack weight (or more) WITHOUT SPENDING ANY ADDITIONAL MONEY (other than perhaps buying a food or postal scale).
Furthermore, if you were to spend a few hundred dollars and replace just ONE of your "Big Four" items--you could reduce your pack weight by another 2-4 lbs. If you repeated this for four consecutive years (and replaced one of the "Big Four" items each year, you would have probably reduced your pack weight by 10-15 pounds over a four year period--plus reducing it by another 6-10+ pounds by following the free options that I listed. Theoretically, you could reduce your pack weight by 20+ pounds--through making only one major purchase per year (and by following the free ideas). That's not too shabby! |
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Jon Prain ("The Isle Royale Guy") has made 18 trips to Isle Royale. He shares his insights and opinions in this blog. Archives
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