I like Moskey Basin. However, the frequent overcrowding can make it less enjoyable. Moskey Basin is many people's favorite isle Royale campground. Thus, I highly suspect that I will encounter some sharp disagreement when I suggest that Moskey Basin campground may be "highly overrated". Why I Like Moskey Basin Campground The views at Moskey Basin are among some of the better views on the entire Island. This is especially true if you are fortunate enough to be staying at one of the lakeside shelters. (The views from the dock area are nice also). The sunrises are great. The moon looks wonderful. It is fun to watch the stars and the shooting stars. There is lots of wildlife swimming around in the water--and drinking at the water's edge. Moskey Basin can be a great place to spend one or two days. In addition to being a great place to hike to, Moskey Basin is also a nice place to reach by canoe, kayak, or boat. Furthermore, if you want to check-out Lake Richie, it is only about 2.5 miles away. Daisy Farm is only 4 miles away. So, there are some nice day hike opportunities if you stay at Moskey Basin. I will share some photos from my 2021 THREE NIGHT STAY at Moskey Basin, and you will see why I like the place. Staying in a shelter (right on the lakefront) at Moskey Basin for three nights was pretty awesome. (I wouldn't normally stay three nights at a campground, but I had become ill during this trip--and I needed to reduce my mileage and increase my number of rest days). Take a look at these photos. Click on photos to enlarge them. So, What's the Big Problem? The biggest problems with Moskey Basin are its over-popularity and the related overcrowding (and sometimes SEVERE overcrowding). In recent years, I have seen times when even the overflow campsite was full and people were setting up tents just about anywhere that there was a semi-flat surface. Such overcrowding certainly diminishes the overall Moskey Basin experience for everyone. Moskey Basin has become a victim of its own popularity. Everyone on social media is saying, "You just HAVE to visit Moskey Basin!!!". Thus, the place is overcrowded and not so much fun. (A few years ago, the people on social media were saying -- "You just HAVE to visit Lane Cove!". Thus, for a few years, Lane Cove was the "must see" campground and was sometimes overcrowded. Personally, I am just waiting for the day when people start posting, "You just HAVE to see East Chickenbone campground!". (If you know about East Chickenbone--you will understand the sarcasm and humor of that statement.) I will admit, the views from the shelters at Moskey Basin are awesome. The problem is--there are only SIX (6) shelters at Moskey Basin. The shelters are first come first serve. Thus, there is a very good chance that (if you are party #7 to arrive--or later) you will only get a tent site and not a shelter. If some people (like me) stay in a shelter for more than one night--you might not get a shelter at Moskey Basin--even if you are the fourth or fifth group to arrive on that day. The views from most of the the Moskey Basin tent sites are definitely not as good as the views that I had at my lakeside shelter. And, the views from the group tent sites (and from the overflow tent area) are definitely nothing but trees and views lots of other people's tents and hammocks. The experience (at such sites) is pretty "UNDERwhelming". (These photos show PART of an overflow camping area at Moskey Basin. These photos were taken before we set up our tent and before another group set up. There were also a few tents not in these photos. Our tent was just a few inches away from the tent next to us. Sadly, I have seen Moskey Basin much more crowded than this. I think you will agree, these views are much different than the views from the lakeside shelter. CLICK ON IMAGES TO ENLARGE THEM) Is Moskey Basin "Overrated"? I think that the answer to the question, "IS MOSKEY BASIN OVERRATED?"--is both "Yes" and "No". Part of it boils down to what you are wanting to experience at Moskey Basin. I think it also comes down to how much extra effort you go to in order to plan a significant part of your trip around staying at Moskey Basin. If I had "high expectations" and had built much of my trip around the hope of staying at the "much hyped" Moskey Basin--and if I ended up staying in an overcrowded tent site--with no views of the lake--on days that were rainy, foggy, or hazy (with no chance to see a sunrise, the moon, stars, and lakeside wildlife) -- I believe that I would be pretty disappointed with my Moskey Basin experience. I would also be pretty frustrated with myself for building my trip around staying at Moskey Basin. Conversely, if I came to Moskey Basin with "low expectations"-- and was one of the lucky six parties that secured a lakeside shelter--and if it was a clear and sunny couple of days--with a great sunrise, a gorgeous moon and/or great views of the stars--and if lots of wildlife was coming to the water's edge--Moskey Basin would be one of the highlights of my entire trip. My Final Thoughts I certainly would NOT plan my Isle Royale trip around a stay at Moskey Basin. If (logistically) it made sense to spend a night there (as I was en route to somewhere else on the Island) I would certainly plan on staying at Moskey Basin for a night. However, I would never go out of my way to make Moskey Basin an intentional ("must see") destination for my trip.
I would definitely keep my expectations low regarding Moskey Basin. I would assume that I would NOT get a shelter--and that I would be staying in an overcrowded (overflow) tent area (with zero view of the lake or the sky). I would maybe (cautiously) hope for the weather to be nice--so that I could get some good views of the lake and the sky from the dock (or from one of the few open areas along the lakeshore). And, if everything turned out far better than expected, and I got a lakeside shelter--on a day with clear skies-- lots of wildlife and a wonderful sunrise--I would give thanks for my good fortune and enjoy the heck out of my time at Moskey Basin. It truly is one of the better campgrounds on Isle Royale.
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Isle Royale weather is extremely unpredictable. Come prepared for almost all types of weather. Then...ENJOY! "What will the weather be like June 12-17th?" On a fairly regular basis, people post questions in online forums, asking what the Isle Royale weather will be like during the specific dates of their planned trip. (They will also ask what the "bugs" will be like during specific dates). How in the world can anyone know the answers to those two questions? Think about the town where you currently live. Can you tell me (on March 16th) what the weather will be like in that location during the 4th Week of July 2023? Will it be hot? Cold? Rainy? Will there be any severe storms? Will you encounter any flies, spiders, or mosquitos during that week? In the same way that you cannot make accurate predictions regarding the weather in your hometown on the 4th Week of July -- neither can anyone consistently, and accurately, tell you what the weather (and "bugs") will be like on Isle Royale four months from now. The Isle Royale Weather is VERY Unpredictable! In the area where you reside, I suspect that people routinely make comments and jokes regarding how inaccurate the weather forecasts can be. (The weather forecaster says that it will be sunny and dry tomorrow-- with high temperatures in the low 80s. Then, tomorrow arrives, and it ends up being cloudy, rainy--with high temperatures in the low 60s). If you think that the weather forecasts in your home area tend to be inaccurate and unpredictable, please note that the weather forecasts --for Isle Royale and Lake Superior-- tend to be much more unpredictable and changeable than they are in most people's home areas. ALWAYS REMEMBER: ISLE ROYALE WEATHER CAN CHANGE QUICKLY, DRAMATICALLY, AND WITH LITTLE ADVANCE WARNING! BE PREPARED FOR THAT POSSIBILITY. I do personally check the various weather forecasts for Isle Royale (and for the greater Isle Royale area) as my trips approach. However, it has been my personal experience, that the weather forecasts are probably incorrect as often (or even more often) than they are accurate. This is especially true for the forecasts more than 24-48 hours out. COME PREPARED FOR "EVERYTHING" When planning their Isle Royale trip, many people tend to look at the recent Isle Royale weather forecasts (and look at the "typical" or "average" Isle weather for that time of the year) and then pack accordingly. I STRONGLY DISAGREE WITH THIS APPROACH! I tend to look at the official RECORD low temperatures and official RECORD high temperatures for that time of the year. I then acknowledge the harsh reality that the UNOFFICIAL highs and UNOFFICIAL lows are even more extreme than the official highs/lows. I then come to the Island fully-prepared to potentially face NEW (unofficial) record low/high temps. I don't care if the average (OFFICIAL) low temperature in August is 52 degrees and the official record low is 34 degrees. I am going to come prepared for overnight lows in the mid to upper 20s. I am also coming prepared to hike in daytime highs in the upper 30s or low 40s all the way up to the mid-90s or higher. I often achieve this level of preparation through layering and mixing and matching a rather small number of clothing items. I certainly don't bring 20 different jackets and 15 changes of clothing in order to address the various weather scenarios. It is entirely possible to be well-prepared for a wide range of weather conditions--and NOT pack the contents of your entire closet. Here is a chart (allegedly) showing the OFFICIAL "average" and "record" temps for Isle Royale. Please note that the UNOFFICIAL record temperatures will likely be several degrees lower or higher than these official highs and lows. EXAMPLE: The "official" record low for August may be 34 degrees--but I have UNOFFICIALLY seen my own thermometer read 28 degrees in August. I have also had water --that was left in a cooking pot overnight-- freeze in August). Expect That You Will Get Wet--and Be Prepared For it! I tell people to always expect to get very wet on Isle Royale--and to always come prepared to deal with extreme wetness and precipitation. (Then, give thanks and rejoice if everything stays relatively dry). On Isle Royale, you are almost constantly surrounded by water. Lake Superior is the world's largest freshwater lake. And, Isle Royale is an island that sits in the midst of it. Isle Royale has many inland lakes, creeks, streams, ponds, bogs, and swamps. The humidity levels can sometimes be very high. The morning dew can be extremely heavy--and cover EVERYTHING with wetness. Trails often have places which are covered with water or mud. On top of this, you also have the possibility of rainfall during your trip. Whether because of recent rain (or because of heavy early morning dew) the thick and tall foliage that envelopes many of the Isle Royale trails can be very wet. And, that wet foliage will transfer that wetness onto you as you walk through it. I have been thoroughly soaked from head-to-toe while walking through some dew-covered trails. Some people even choose to do their very early morning hiking while wearing rain gear --because of the heavy dew and excessive (and wet) foliage that encroaches upon the trails. With so much wetness--in so many different forms--in so many places--the chances are pretty good that you (and your footwear, clothing, and gear) could become very wet at some point during your Isle Royale trip. Therefore, it is advisable, to come to the Island prepared to encounter that degree of wetness and humidity -- in terms of your clothing, your footwear, your tent (or other form of shelter), your electronic devices, and your other gear. Remember--the temperatures may also get very cold--so hypothermia is also a risk. BE PREPARED! An Extreme Rain Story: One year, I was doing a 10-day hike on Isle Royale. Just as I finished my evening meal on Day # 2 (and at West Chickenbone Campground) it started to rain. It rained all through the night. It was raining when I woke up the next morning (Day # 3 of my trip) . I packed up all of my gear in the midst of a heavy rainstorm. It then rained (hard) all through the day while I hiked. It was also cold and windy. I reached my planned destination (Hatchet Lake) shortly after midday. I decided to not stop. Instead, I chose to keep walking (in order to help me stay warm) and in hope that the rain would stop and I would not have to set up camp in the rain. I reached South Lake Desor in the very late afternoon. It was still raining. It was still windy and cold--and I was getting close to being hypothermic. I set up camp in the rain. I also prepared and ate my third consecutive meal in the rain. I went to bed while it was still raining. It rained all night. I packed up in the rain the next morning (Trip Day # 4). Breakfast was prepared and eaten in the rain. I hiked all morning in the rain. I ate lunch in the rain. (This was my fifth consecutive meal in the rain). In the early afternoon, it finally stopped raining--but it didn't really matter. The trails were mostly water and mud. The foliage along the trails was soaked. Water was continually falling off of the trees --and I was soaked (both from my own perspiration inside of my rain gear and from the rainwater that had been "everywhere" for roughly the past 42 hours). When I reached Windigo (Washington Creek Campground)--some gracious people offered to let me share their wooden shelter and to dry out for the next 24-48 hours. Everyone that I encountered was wet. It didn't matter what clothing, footwear, rain gear, or tent that they had. There is simply no way to stay completely dry (in the outdoors) in the midst of 42 hours of continual rain (and after nearly another day of water falling off of leaves and the ground being saturated--with standing water in many places). In such conditions, you will get wet. The only questions are--how wet will you, your clothing, and gear be-- and will it create a potentially dangerous scenario? Are you prepared to deal with that degree of wetness if it were to happen during your trip? Could you keep your sleeping bag--and some clothes--dry enough to help you ward off hypothermia? Heat and Hydration Heat injuries and dehydration are very real possibilities on Isle Royale--even on days that are cloudy and not extremely warm. This is especially true when hiking on the open and exposed ridges and when out on the open lakes in a boat, canoe, or kayak. Many people report drinking far more water than they anticipated while on Isle Royale...or they report that they wished that they had carried much more water. (When hiking, this water "problem" is compounded by the fact that water if often difficult to acquire on the Isle Royale trails). On a map, a water source may APPEAR to be close to the trail--but (in reality) it might be nearly impossible to reach (or it will be so smelly and putrid that you won't want to try to filter it). Thus, be sure to be carrying plenty of water with you when you leave camp in the morning. I typically carry 2-3 liters of water when I depart camp. Some people carry more--some people carry less. Some Weather-Related Links
This week, I want to discuss some ways to increase your chances of seeing moose. I also want to share some of my moose photos and tell some stories of my own encounters with Isle Royale moose. NOTE: The photos were taken with zoom features on the camera. I did not get overly close to the moose in these photos. (Click the photos to enlarge them) No Guarantee You Will See Moose Let me share a harsh reality. There is no guarantee that you will see any moose during your Isle Royale visit. Many people DO see moose while visiting Isle Royale. However, there are also many people who DON'T see any moose. Isle Royale is not a zoo. The moose are not kept in cages or other enclosures to make it easier for you to view them. Isle Royale is not a circus. The moose do not put on shows at specified times and locations. Seeing one (or more) moose on Isle Royale is a totally random event. A moose encounter happens when you (and the moose) just happen to be in the same general area at the same time. It is primarily all about "luck". Increase Your Chances of Seeing Moose Time and Location Theoretically, you can see moose at just about any location on the Island and at any time of the day. That being said, the large majority of moose encounters probably happen in the early morning hours and in the evening hours. Many of the encounters also seem to happen within a half mile of a water source. And, as silly as it may sound, the Rock Harbor and Windigo areas seem to have more than their fair share of moose encounters. (In part, this is because more people are in those locations. Thus, more people are present to see the moose. Also, wolves tend to stay away from people. Thus, the moose sometimes like to be close to populated places --like Rock Harbor and Windigo -- because the wolves tend to stay away from these heavily human-populated areas. I have seen many moose early in the morning--as I am often one of the earlier persons to hit the trails. Thus, I encounter moose who are still asleep near the trail (who jump up and flee when they hear/smell me coming). Sometimes, in the early morning, I stumble upon moose who are casually eating leaves and plants. Washington Creek Campground (Windigo) often has moose in the the creek at some point during the day. (I have seen them most often between 6:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m. Eastern Time. However, I have probably encountered them at just about all hours of the day and night). Encountering them in Washington Creek is especially true the later you get in the season -- when more plant life is growing in the creek. The main "roads" in the Rock Harbor area (around the cabins and campground) seem to be areas where moose sometimes frequent. Feldtmann Lake Campground also seems to have a somewhat elevated amount of moose sightings. Sound and Scent Issues--Especially Sound The moose can smell you and hear you. Thus, be aware of your odors. Also, be especially aware of the amount of sound and noise that you make. The more odors that you have, the more that the moose will know you are there. Try to keep your natural body odor to a minimum. Also, odors from things like deodorant, perfume, and cologne can alert the moose to your presence. Other odors that the moose seem to notice include coffee, cigarette smoke, marijuana smoke, vaping smells, soap, petroleum-based fuels, etc. The moose will very likely smell you as you approach--particularly the more odors that you have. Odors can lower your chance of seeing moose. In my opinion, sound issues cause far more problems than odors when it comes to trying to encounter moose. I can't stress enough that many visitors to Isle Royale are just "too darn noisy" as they come down the trail (or as they operate their watercraft). They are talking to companions and/or they are playing music and podcasts through the speakers on their cellphones and other devices. They have numerous things hanging from their packs that rattle and "clank" with each step that they take. The sound of their trekking poles (or paddles) coming into contact with various surfaces can be very loud. I have been sitting down along a trail (taking a break) and I have sometimes heard people approaching for 5 to 15 minutes (or more) before they reach my location. If an old guy (with 61 year old ears) can hear you 15 minutes before you arrive--imagine what a moose (with super-sensitive ears) can hear. It is important to reduce your noise level if you wish to increase your chances of encountering moose. Being Alert If you wish to see moose, it helps if you stay alert and are looking for moose and listening for them. I have frequently encountered people on the trails (and on the waterways) that are primarily focused on getting to their next destination...and little else seems to matter to them. They are moving fairly quickly. Their heads are down (looking at the trail) as they hike (or they are looking at the water--or looking straight ahead at a point on the horizon) while paddling. They are not paying attention to what is off to their left or right. They are not listening for sounds. They are talking--or they have their earbuds in place. They are "zoning out" as they hike or paddle. A moose could be 30 feet off to their left and they might miss it--because they are not paying attention. To see (or hear) a moose--it certainly helps to be looking for moose (and listening for them). When you reach an open area--perhaps at a pond, bog, a small lake, or maybe at a small field or meadow -- I invite you to pause for a moment. Take time to look around. Scan the area for signs of wildlife. Listen for sounds. Don't just rush past the open area --giving it no attention. I invite you to actively look for wildlife and actively listen for wildlife. SOME OF MY "SCARY" MOOSE ENCOUNTERS My Very First Moose Encounter On my first Isle Royale trip, I was alone and approaching North Lake Desor campground. I had already left the Minong Ridge Trail and was hiking the spur trail to the campground. It had been a long hike from Windigo. I was tired. I was thirsty. I REALLY had to go to the bathroom. I couldn't wait to take off my pack, go to the bathroom, drink some water--and start setting up camp. Then, I encountered a cow moose and her calf (see the two photos above of a cow and a cow and calf). The cow was on one side of the trail and the calf was on the other side of the trail. There was no way that I was going to walk between a cow and a calf. Thus, I stayed close to some trees and watched the cow and calf. They never got more than 20 feet away from the trail as they casually ate. This went on for over 30 minutes. So, for 30 minutes, I stood there watching the cow and calf. At one level, that was a wonderful experience watching two moose for over 30 minutes. However, my "heavy" pack was still on my back. My bowels and bladder were bursting. The longer I stood there--the later it was getting (and setting up camp was getting pushed back later and later). Finally, after more than a half hour, the cow and calf moved on and I was able to get to the North Desor campground. The Boardwalk to Chippewa Harbor I was hiking to Chippewa Harbor campground. On that trail, there is a very long (elevated) boardwalk that is built over swampy land and over water for much of its distance. It is sometimes 2-3 feet above the water. The boardwalk has some twists and turns. I was walking on this 12-inch wide boardwalk with a pack on my back. As I came around a curve, I startled a large bull moose that had been eating plants in the water. He was in front of me and to my right. I was 2-3 feet above the water--standing on a 12-inch boardwalk. The moose panicked. He was standing in the water. The elevated boardwalk blocked his path on one side. On the other side there were thick clumps of trees blocking his path. I was sort of in front of him (on the curve of the boardwalk) and the path behind him was partially blocked by trees--but other areas behind him were partially open. The moose started running around in circles--confused as to where to go. First, he ran in my direction (which scared me). He realized I was there--so he turned toward the boardwalk. He saw that route blocked by the boardwalk. He then turned the other direction--and found his way blocked by trees. He started running forward--and remembered I was there. Then--he turned back toward the boardwalk. Then, he went back toward the trees. After 2-3 rounds of this type of panic, he finally found an opening behind him and he galloped out of there at a fast pace. Remember, this big bull moose was in water. So, all of this running and turning around in circles was amplified by the big splashing sounds that he was making in the water. And, there I was, with a pack on my back. Standing 2-3 feet above the water on a 12-inch board. I was watching this (large) startled bull moose running every possible direction (including running toward me). Interesting times! My Mistake I was hiking between East Chickenbone and McCargoe Cove. As I came down a hill toward a boardwalk and a watery area, I saw that a cow and calf were out in the water eating plants, They were "close" to the boardwalk--but I figured that they were far enough away for me to walk through the area safely. The moose were also looking the other way and paying no attention to me as I approached the boardwalk. Plus, there was a beaver dam and large beaver lodge that would be between me and moose for some of the time that I was on the boardwalk. (It would conceal me as walked). Thus, I decided that the moose were far enough away and it was safe for me to walk across the boardwalk. The cow and calf never even looked at me as I started across the boardwalk. I eventually started to pass behind the large beaver lodge (while still on the boardwalk). I could no longer see the moose in the water because the beaver lodge blocked everything. I then heard some walking in the water. It sounded like the moose were walking away. Thus, I figured that my situation was improving. I was wrong. Mama moose was NOT walking away. She (and baby) had actually walked TOWARD the boardwalk. As I finished walking past the beaver lodge (and as I could see the water and the moose again)--I looked toward the water. Mama and baby were NOT farther away. Mama was now only 15 to 20 feet from the boardwalk. She was now fully aware of my presence and she was NOT happy that I was there. Her body language and snorting made that very apparent. I practically flew off the final feet of that boardwalk and positioned myself behind some trees. Mama moose paced back and forth--20 to 30 feet away from me--pawing and snorting all the while. I stayed frozen in fear behind the trees. Finally, mom and baby each gave out calls to each other--and mom finally left me and went back to her baby. I was terrified. I have seen many moose over the years. I try to be very careful around moose and other wildlife. This time, I misjudged the situation and I misjudged the distances--and it almost resulted in injury to me. The Hammock Situation I was at North Lake Desor campground, sleeping in my hammock. (The hammock had bug netting and a tarp). As I shifted positions in the middle of the night, I was somewhat awake. I started hearing a loud "crashing" sound moving through the woods. (That noise definitely caused me to wake up!).
It quickly became apparent that the noise was a moose galloping through the woods. Initially, the sound was far away. However, it soon grew closer and closer. As the sound grew closer, it was clear that this galloping moose was heading toward my campsite. (My campsite was located right between where the sound was coming from and Lake Desor. My guess is that the moose was heading to the water to eat and drink--and to avoid predators). It soon seemed very apparent that my hammock was probably right in the moose's pathway. I began to brace myself for what seemed like an inevitable collision. Then, when the moose was probably 20-30 feet from my hammock. The galloping sound abruptly came to a complete halt. Maybe the moose saw my camp--or more likely it smelled my camp or heard me. All I know is that I was VERY happy that the galloping sound had stopped--and that the moose slowly walked away--and eventually entered the lake elsewhere. (I could hear it walking and eating in the water) I will conclude this week's blog post with more moose photos. One of the best things about a trip to Isle Royale is the fact that you can meet some really great people (if you are open to that). Some of these people can even become your good friends. Thus, I would encourage everyone--even those introverts who come to Isle Royale for solitude -- to spend at least some time interacting with other people while visiting Isle Royale. Leave me Alone! I understand the desire to have solitude while on Isle Royale. By nature, I am an EXTREME introvert. However, in my professional life over the years (pastor of a congregation, military officer and chaplain, small-town mayor, and certified substance abuse counselor), I have always had to outwardly function as an extreme EXTROVERT. (And, the introvert part of me just "hates" that!). As an extreme INTROVERT, being with people for long periods of time drains me and exhausts me. One of the big reasons that I come to Isle Royale once or twice each year-- is to be alone. I leave my wife and kids at home and I travel to the Island ---alone. I get nearly 10-12 hours of being alone in my car while driving to the ferry or seaplane and another 10-12 hours of being alone on the drive back home. When I am at Isle Royale, I usually hike alone. I usually camp alone. I typically like to be alone on Isle Royale--in order to reflect, to pray, and to simply "recharge my batteries". We introverts don't usually "hate" other people--but we really DO need our time alone in order to rebuild our energy. One time (during a peak season on Isle Royale) I somehow managed to go for 28 consecutive hours of hiking and camping on the Minong Ridge Trail without seeing another person. That extremely rare situation --28 hours with no human contact (during peak season)--was GLORIOUS! I, as much as anyone, understand the need and desire to be alone while on Isle Royale. Yet, There Are Many Great People on Isle Royale! Every year, several thousand very interesting and delightful people come to Isle Royale between April and October. Some of them come to Isle Royale to work. Others are a part of families that have been coming to Isle Royale for generations. The biggest percentage make the journey across Lake Superior just to visit the Island for a brief while. Whatever their reason for coming to Isle Royale, the vast majority of them have had some very interesting life experiences and they have great stories to tell. Spending too much time alone (and going out-of-your-way to avoid everyone) can cause you to miss out on experiencing one of the greatest things that Isle Royale has to offer --encounters with these really great people --and hearing their interesting stories. (Sometimes, you may even meet people who eventually become your friends). Finding the Balance I have had to find ways to balance my need/desire to be alone in the wilderness--with the reality that it is impossible to be absolutely alone (for very long) in a National Park. I have also learned to embrace the reality that many of the people (that I might encounter on Isle Royale) have some great life experiences to share (and that my life is better for having met them). What works well for me, is I try to obtain significant time alone while I am hiking on the trail (or while paddling on the water). For the most part, you can actually spend quite a bit of time not encountering other people on the trails and waterways of Isle Royale. On the occasions, when I do encounter other people, I can be very friendly, polite, and pleasant--spend 30 seconds to a couple of minutes sharing information about trail conditions and what lies head--and then go back to enjoying my own solitary way. During an 8 hour hike, it is very easy to spend all but about 15 minutes of that time alone--but still be pleasantly engaged with the people that I encounter on the trail. Even if I spend 30 minutes (out of 8 hours) chatting with folks on the trail or on the water--I still have had 7.5 hours of time alone. That's a huge percentage of time to myself. Even when am hiking or paddling with other people (which I sometimes do) --that doesn't mean that we have to be actively "engaged" with each other all of the time while we hike or paddle. It is entirely possible to hike or paddle in silence--and just enjoy what the Island has to offer and enjoy being in the other person's presence. A six hour hike (or six hour paddle) does not HAVE to be a six-hour non-stop conversation. With most of my hiking partners, we don't actually even hike "together". They hike at their pace and I hike at my pace--and we meet at a couple of designated checkpoints during the hiking day to make sure that each other are O.K. (We also share a campsite and spend considerable time together in camp). We are alone ... together. I also tend to find time to be alone--by typically having my own separate tent, hammock, or tarp when I am on trips with other people. Even when I am traveling with other people, it is still pretty easy for me to spend 16+ hours (each day) alone or in silence. Docks, Filtering Water, Campfires, Ferries Some of the best places to interact with other people are at locations where people congregate to filter water. This may along a shoreline. It may be at a dock. (Docks, in general, tend to be great gathering places where conversations occur). Some campgrounds have a communal fire ring--and someone may have a fire going for everyone to enjoy. People (in neighboring campsites) sometimes engage in conversations while someone's dinner is simmering. Conversations also tend to happen on the ferry rides to and from the Island. I have enjoyed many great conversations at all of these types of places. It has been my experience, that conversations (which start between complete strangers--in the above locations) can often result in further conversations breaking out as you encounter the same people later in the same day or later in the same trip. There are also people that you encounter again-and-again on multiple trips to Isle Royale over a period of years. Sharing Campsites/Shelters (and August 2010) Sometimes, overcrowded conditions (or bad weather) will "force" you to share tent sites--or cause someone to offer to share a shelter with other people. As a severe introvert, I sort of "cringe" at such scenarios (because I like my privacy). However, I will admit, that every instance (on Isle Royale) where I have shared a tent site or shelter--has turned out just fine. At worst, it was a "neutral" experience and (at best) it has created relationships where I am still in contact with some people 12+ years after sharing a campsite. The people have all been interesting and they have all had great life stories to share. I could write multiple blog posts about the interesting people that I have meet through sharing tent sites and shelters on Isle Royale. One such experience does stand out far above the others. In August 2010, due to overcrowding, I ended up sharing a tent site at Feldtmann Lake with two guys in their 20s. (I would soon turn age 49 and I was hiking solo). We were eventually joined in the campsite by a young woman in her 20s. That night, the young men were going to Rainbow Cove to watch the sunset--and the young woman and I were invited to join them. We chatted for 2-3 hours on the beach at Rainbow Cove. We watched the sun go down in front of us and the full moon rise behind us. We intentionally walked back to Feldtmann Lake using only the moonlight (we kept our flashlights turned off). After leaving Feldtmann Lake the next morning, I ran into the young men as they took a lunch break at Siskiwit Bay--and the young woman and I both stayed at Siskiwit Bay campground the next night--at separate campsites, For some reason (maybe to share some photos) I had contact information for each of them. I have stayed in touch with them and even became Facebook friends with each of them. It has now been 12+ years since we shared that campsite at Feldtmann Lake. In addition to occasional Facebook contact, I have also run into each of them (totally unplanned) on Isle Royale at various other times. They were each single and "child-free" when I first met them at Feldtmann Lake in 2010. They now all have young children. (Seven children between them). My own two children are now adults. In several more months, I will become eligible to receive Social Security. With the two young men, I have actually had planned trips to Isle Royale with each of them (separately). In 2016, I hiked the Minong Ridge Trail with one of the young men and his wife. In 2019, I also hiked the Feldtmann Loop with him, his wife, and his father-in-law. (We are all in the photo at the top of this article posing at the Windigo sign). With the other young man, I (a pastor) was invited to officiate at his Isle Royale wedding on the Windigo dock in 2018. (He had met his future bide on the Windigo dock. He proposed to her on the Windigo dock. They got married on the Windigo dock). I happened to run into him on the trip when he met the woman and I was on the same ferry back to the mainland with him and his fiancee--just moments after he had proposed. Totally unplanned encounters. IRONY: On the day that he and his bride-to-be were arriving on Isle Royale for their Windigo wedding--the young woman (with whom we had shared the Feldtmann campsite back in 2010) was also at the Windigo dock--getting on a ferry to depart the Island. It is a small world. The Rock Concert at Chippewa In 2021, I spent two nights at Chippewa Harbor. I could write multiple blog posts about those two days and the people that I encountered at Chippewa Harbor. We were a very diverse group of people--sea kayakers, a three generation family with a sail boat, a couple of hikers, three couples on a recreational fishing boat. (They prepared a roasted lake trout meal for me that was PHENOMENAL!). One night, one of the sea kayakers got out her ukulele and some song sheets. One of the folks on the sailboat got out a small guitar. For about two hours, a small group of us had an impromptu concert and sing-a-long on the big rocky area at Chippewa Harbor. We sang children's songs, campfire songs, and Top 40 classics from roughly five decades. Some of the songs included Elvis' "I Can't Help Falling In Love With You"; Camila Cabello's "Havana"; Broadway show tunes; 1950s and 1960s "Doo Wop" songs; Kermit the Frog's "Rainbow Connection"--which I began to hear as a waltz--and I waltzed alone on the rocks at Chippewa Harbor to this song--lol; "Don't Worry ... Be Happy"; small portions of "Rapper's Delight"--by the Sugar Hill Gang); "Proud Mary"--by Tina Turner; "Dock of the Bay"; "Lean on Me"; "The Lion Sleeps Tonight"; "Oh What a Night (December 1963)"; and many others. The "Rock Concert at Chippewa" was a great night. CONCLUSION: A 2021 TRIP REPORT STATEMENT Probably the best way to wrap up this blog post is to share the following passages from my August 2021 Isle Royale trip report:
I had some great discussions and interactions on each of the 16 days that I was on the Island in 2021. I can't possibly list them all here. Some of my more "unique" 2021 discussions included listening to a three-year-old explain the finer points and nuances of throwing rocks, sand, and sticks in the water (on one end of the continuum)--and discussing people's Ph.D. dissertations (on the other end of the continuum). There were discussions of people's past outdoor hiking and paddling trips -- from short trips in local parks to trips to the Himalayas, Europe, the Appalachian Trail, Yukon River, Pacific Crest Trail, Grand Canyon, Yellowstone, Superior Hiking Trail, North Country Trail--and so many others. There were discussions with engineers, bankers, lawyers, doctors, teachers, and nurses. There were also discussions with unemployed persons, retired persons, persons in the service industries, college students, factory workers, farmers, retail store workers, restaurant workers, and self-employed people. I met people who were enjoying their first trip to the Island--all the way up to someone on their 33rd trip to Isle Royale. People talked about life, health, joys, sorrows, illnesses, birthdays, anniversaries, religion, science, hopes, and fears. People discussed "what's for dinner", which outhouse to use (and which to avoid), moose and wolf sightings--as well as talking about seeing beavers, foxes, squirrels (and other critters). We talked about trail conditions, blue-green algae, COVID-19, wildfires, fishing, retirement issues, and job issues. I also had some intense discussions with young people regarding their favorite (and least favorite) subjects in school--and the impending starting dates for the new school year. I accepted two dinner invitations during this trip. I spent nearly 10 minutes intently listening to a two-year-old--(who was still learning to talk)--as he enthusiastically described things to me. I only understood about a quarter of his words--but his intensity, enthusiasm, and animated nature were captivating as he told his Isle Royale stories. To everyone that I encountered on this trip--whether it was for a few moments or a few days--I thank you for the experience. It was (and is) greatly appreciated. The people were my favorite part of this year's Isle Royale trip. Who knows, maybe some of the people (that I met this year) will still be a part of my life a decade from now--just like some of the people from my earlier trips. Again, to all the people that I encountered on my trip --thanks! |
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Jon Prain ("The Isle Royale Guy") has made 18 trips to Isle Royale. He shares his insights and opinions in this blog. Archives
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