 Some Initial Thoughts The weight of someone's fully-loaded backpack is a very personal choice. You are free to carry a backpack that is as heavy (or as light) as you wish. One person might carry a fully-loaded backpack (including water, food, and fuel) that weighs OVER 75 lbs. Another person might carry a fully-loaded backpack that weighs LESS THAN 15 lbs. I have done both extremes in my 52 years of hiking and backpacking. Personally, on Isle Royale, I prefer to have a fully-loaded pack (including food, water, and fuel) that weighs somewhere in the 12 to 35 lb. range (depending upon the expected weather, the length of the trip, and my goals for the trip). Why Some People Go Lighter I (and many other people), believe that a lighter pack weight places less strain on the body. And, it assists you in hiking longer distances and/or at a faster pace with greater ease. That is why I often try to carry a lighter pack weight on my Isle Royale backpacking trips The "Trade-Offs" & Risks That being said, there are usually some "trade offs" that are made as you seek to go lighter with your pack weight. You often end up carrying less "stuff". Thus, out in the wilderness, you might not have all of the "stuff" that you want (or the "stuff" that you believe you need). You might not be as comfortable--especially in camp--due to the stuff that you leave at home. Your sleeping bag might not be as warm. You might leave the camp shoes or camp chair at home. Your tent might be less roomy (or you might decide to leave the tent home and use just a simple tarp instead). You might not bring as many changes of clothing with you. The lighter that you go, the more that you must rely upon your skills and your experience level (and less upon your equipment and clothing items). Thus, going extremely lightweight, probably isn't advisable for people who have limited outdoor skills or limited outdoor experience. Some Ways to Lower Your Pack Weight Leave Stuff Home
One of the easiest, and best, ways to lower pack weight to leave stuff home and not bring it with you on your trip. (What items you choose to leave home is a very personal choice and must be based on your personnel needs and personal preferences). How many changes of clothing do you REALLY need? How much cooking gear (and how many eating utensils) do you need to bring? Do you need that ax, saw, and big "Rambo" knife? Do you need that camp chair? Camp shoes? Do you need all of that electronic gear (and the associated batteries, chargers, and cords?) Do you need a long sleeve shirt AND a fleece jacket AND a "puffy" down jacket AND a windbreaker AND a rain jacket -- or can you get by with bringing just 2 or 3 of those items? When I am going very ultralight, I bring only one change of clothing with me --at most. I rinse out and/or wash my clothing during my trip. I choose to eat food that only requires me to boil water. Thus, I bring a tiny cooking pot that holds just over two cups of water. (Why bring a 10-cup cooking pot to boil only 2 cups of water?). I pour the boiling water directly into the food packages and eat right out of the packages. I use a long-handle titanium spork to eat my food. Thus, I leave all other eating utensils and cooking utensils at home. I don't bring a plate, bowl, and cup with me. (I drink out of my water bottles). I don't bring any frying pans, additional pots, serving spoons, or spatulas. There is no significant need for a saw or ax on Isle Royale. It is against park regulations to cut down standing trees--even dead ones. Cutting branches off of standing trees (even dead standing trees) is not permitted. Fires are not permitted at most campgrounds--and (at the places where fires are permitted) you are encouraged to use wood no thicker than 3 inches thick. Clearing trails is not permitted-- unless you have permission and proper supervision. So, why bring the ax and saw? The same is true about the big "Rambo" knife. What are you going to do with that huge knife---that you can't do with a tiny knife? Bring Smaller & Lighter Stuff I would invite you to think about "The Big Four" items. 1) Your backpack. 2) Your tent/shelter. 3) Your sleeping bag. 4) Your sleep pad. It is amazing how much weight you can save--just by getting smaller and lighter versions of any (or all) of those four items. A tent can easily weigh 5 to 7 pounds. Yet, there are also tents out there that weigh just 2 to 3 pounds. And, if you are experienced with using just a tarp (instead of a tent), there are some tarps that weigh less than 8 ounces. If you use a 2 lb. tent instead of a 7 lb. tent--you can cut 5 pounds off of your pack weight. (Furthermore, why does a solo hiker need a 3-4 person tent?) Similar arguments can be said about backpacks and sleeping bags, Do you want to carry the 5 to 7 pound version (of a backpack or sleeping bag)--or the 1 to 3 pound version? Sleep pads (depending upon their thickness, comfort level, warmth, and materials) can range from just a few ounces to over five pounds. It is possible for "The Big Four" items (combined) to weigh as much as 20+ pounds or as little as under three pounds. Making changes in your "Big Four" is one of the places where you can rather quickly reduce your overall pack weight. Little Amounts Add Up--Get a Scale! Fractions of ounces quickly add up to become full ounces. Ounces soon add up and become pounds. Be mindful of the weight of EVERY item in your pack. Get a kitchen / food scale--or a postal scale--and weigh EVERYTHING. When you have a choice between a heavier item and a lighter item--try to bring the lighter item. (EXAMPLE: One pair of shorts might weigh 3 or 4 ounces and another pair of shorts might weigh 7 or 8 ounces. Bring the 3 ounce shorts). Hypothetically speaking, let's say that you have 32 times in your pack. If you can reduce the weight of each of those 32 items by an average of just one ounce--the total reduction of your pack weight is two pounds. If you reduce each item by an average of two ounces--you reduce your pack weight by four pounds. Remember, fractions of ounces-- and ounces-- add up. Reduce weight every way that you can. Find Items That Can Serve Multiple Functions. The photo -- at the top of this article (showing an item that looks a bit like a tent) -- is a photo of my Gatewood Cape (sold by Six Moon Designs). It serves as BOTH rain gear--and as a form of shelter. When possible, it is good to carry items that can serve multiple functions. Another example: I have a down "puffy" jacket. I bring the down jacket on my trips--and then I bring a lighter (40 degree) sleeping bag (or a 40 degree quilt) instead of bringing a (heavier) 30 degree sleeping bag (or quilt). On cool nights, I wear the down jacket to bed. In short, the down jacket is not JUST a jacket--it is also a part of my sleep system. It serves two functions. My hiking/trekking poles also serve as a pole for my tent/shelter (instead of me carrying tent poles). Instead of carrying a small trowel or shovel to dig a "cat hole" (to go to the bathroom in the woods), I use a tent stake (or a stick) to dig a cat hole. I don't bring a drinking cup with me on my trips. However, if I need something like a cup, I can always use my cooking pot for that purpose. Try to bring items that can serve multiple functions--and leave some other items at home. Conclusion Reducing pack weight can reduce some of the "wear and tear" on your body. It can make your hike (or your long portages) easier and more enjoyable. A lighter pack weight can also make it possible for you to cover longer distances at a faster pace. In July 2022, I took my 17th trip to Isle Royale. My fully-loaded pack weighed between 12 and 18 pounds on that trip (depending upon how much food was in my pack at any given time). Without water, food and fuel, my pack weighed roughly 7.5 pounds. I could have packed slightly lighter--and trimmed another one to three pounds off of that weight. If you want to know what was in my pack--click on this link: WHAT'S IN MY BACKPACK?
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 Every year, there are people who need to be rescued on the Minong Ridge Trail (MRT). Perhaps they become injured in a fall. Dehydration can sometimes be their major issue. They might become lost. There are many reasons why people might need to be rescued on the Minong Ridge Trail. And, because of it's remoteness, it might be very difficult for someone on the Minong Ridge Trail to reach out to anyone for help. Once help is contacted, it may still take that help many hours (or a day or longer) to reach you. That is why people should exercise extreme caution before hiking the Minong Ridge Trail. Do the number of rescues seem to indicate that the Minong Ridge Trail (MRT) is a difficult trail? Perhaps. However, I think it also shows that (far too often) the "wrong" people are hiking the Minong Ridge Trail and/or they are not coming properly prepared (and properly equipped) for the special challenges that the Minong Ridge Trail presents. Personally, I have hiked many trails that are more "difficult" than the MRT. WHAT IS THE TRAIL LIKE? The MRT (especially between Windigo and Todd Harbor) IS NOT like some fairly easy trail at your typical State or County park. Frankly, the MRT is also not as easy as thousands of miles of trail in many National Parks. However, the MRT is also not as difficult as a Mt. Everest expedition nor like a journey through the Yukon wilderness. People tend to either over hype the difficulty of the Minong Ridge Trail --or they tend to (foolishly and dangerously?) downplay the special challenges that the Minong Ridge Trail offers. There Are Essentially "Two Different" Minong Ridge Trails You will hear different people share far different stories about their experiences on the Minong Ridge Trail (in regard to trail difficulty). Part of that is due to the Minong Ridge Trail (MRT) being a VERY different place --depending upon the recent weather situation and the trail conditions when a person hikes it. The drier that recent conditions have been-- the "easier" the MRT is to hike (generally speaking). If recent conditions have been very wet, you are definitely dealing with a FAR DIFFERENT Minong Ridge Trail. In wet conditions, you will have many sections of the rocky trail that become slippery and almost treacherous. Sections of the trail will be underwater. (I have seen sections of the "infamous" beaver dams be under 5-7 inches of flowing water--or more). Stepping stones on creek crossings may be underwater and creeks may have overflowed their banks. Foliage may be wet and soak you from head to toe as you walk through overgrown sections of trail. In some places, the trail itself can become a "creek" with water flowing down it. So, weather and trail conditions, can play a big role in "which" Minong Ridge Trail you encounter. (Also, things like torrential rains and lightening on the ridges can cause you to hunker down in safer places for a few hours or even for a whole day--and that can impact the amount of time --and number of days--that it takes you to hike the MRT). The Trail Can Be Hard to See/Find The MRT is rugged and primitive. The trail is INTENTIONALLY not well marked. It is INTENTIONALLY less well-developed and not as well-maintained. It is definitely a wilderness area. You will only see actual signs at a few key places --like trail junctions and campgrounds. (Only about 6 or 7 signs in roughly 30 miles of trail). For people who are used to seeing painted "blazes" every few hundred feet on many major trails (like the Appalachian Trail)--there ARE NO BLAZES on Isle Royale--and especially not on the Minong Ridge Trail. In various places, the trail is difficult to see/find. In many places, you will find yourself navigating your way from one small pile of 3-5 rocks (a "cairn") to the next pile of 3-5 rocks. What will you do if a moose (or some "environmentalist" who wants no human-made things in the wilderness) knocks over a cairn or two? You have to be prepared for dealing with things like that. "False Trails" Can Happen You will also find places where (sometimes) a moose trail appears to be the actual trail. At times, there are places where multiple humans have become misdirected in the same places--and these disoriented humans have unintentionally created a false trail. If you are hiking on the MRT--you have to be prepared for things like that. Are your hiking and land navigation skills able to deal with such challenges? If not, please do yourself (and everyone else) a favor--and do not hike the MRT (especially between Todd Harbor and Windigo). You probably need more training and experience before hiking the Minong Ridge Trail. (And, that's perfectly O.K.) It Is Rocky and "Hilly" In Many Places The MRT is rocky in many places. These rocks are very slippery when wet--and sharp and jagged if you fall on them. Walking lots of miles on jagged rocks can take its toll on the feet, ankles, and knees of some people. There are also many ups and downs on the trail. You will hike up 50-150 feet and then hike down 50-150 feet many times during any given day. That too can take its toll on some people. Is your body up to that sort of hiking? If not, you should probably skip the Minong Ridge Trail--until such time (if any) that your body is ready for such trail conditions. It Is Wet and Swampy The MRT is wet and swampy in places. Don't be surprised if your feet and clothes get wet on an MRT trip. There will be 3-4 places (particularly between N. Desor and Windigo) where you will walk on top of muddy and wet beaver dams. (In wet weather, these dams can even be partially underwater). You will have streams to cross that (when they are running) can only be crossed by stepping on rocks (that may--or may not--be fully above water) or by you actually walking through the creek. There are a couple of places where you cross a stream by walking on a single rickety old log. There are some narrow boardwalks and bridges (roughly 12 inches wide). In wet weather, parts of the trail will mostly be just thick mud--or even be underwater. If you hike the MRT--be prepared to get wet and muddy--and then be pleasantly surprised if that doesn't happen. The Trail Can Be Overgrown There are some places (and certain times of the year) when some sections of the trail can be mostly obscured by overgrown foliage. You will usually still be able to follow the trail--but it might be a challenge for some people. If there has been recent rain or heavy dew, walking through such sections can also cause you to get very wet. Pushing your way through an overgrown trail can also slow you down. That brings me to the next point... The MRT Can Be a SLOW Trail Given the types of conditions mentioned above, it is really not very surprising that many people report hiking only 1.0 to 1.5 mph --OR SLOWER on many places on the Minong Ridge Trail (especially in places like the section of trail between Little Todd Harbor and N. Lake Desor). Hiking slower means that it takes you longer to get from Point A to Point B. This means you are spending more time hiking and are likely expending more energy and getting more fatigued. You are also drinking more water--because you are on the trail longer. When planning your overall trip, and when planning the length of your individual hiking days (and when planning the amount of water you will need to carry)--you must remember that hiking one mile per hour may be all the faster that you are going to hike in some long stretches of the MRT... and that slow pace can make a big difference on so many different aspects of your hike. Plan and prepare accordingly and you should be fine. Fail to plan and prepare accordingly...and you may need to be rescued by the rangers and/or the Coast Guard. HYDRATION ISSUES ARE NUMEROUS You Will Likely Consume Lots of Water Many people remark that they can't believe how much water they drink on the MRT. The hiking days are potentially long. The trails are somewhat challenging. The exposed rock ridges can be super warm or even hot. It is not uncommon for someone to say that they carried 3 liters of water and still had to maybe ration it and/or some people may have even run out of water when carrying 3 liters. I will repeat myself--THREE LITERS OF WATER MAY NOT BE ENOUGH WATER FOR SOME PEOPLE ON THE MRT Yet, water takes up a lot of room and it weighs a lot (2.2 lbs. per liter--or 6.6 lbs for 3 liters and 8.8 lbs for 4 liters). The extra weight --though necessary--can make the hike more difficult and tiring. Thus, you have to be in good backpacking shape and you need to have a pack and water containers that can carry 3-4 liters of water. Come prepared --both in terms of your physical conditioning and your gear. Don't Plan On Finding Water Between Campgrounds The chances are VERY good--that the water that you have with you when you leave your campsite in the morning-- will be the ONLY water that you have until you get to your next campground at night. THE MAP MAY SHOW THAT WATER EXISTS NEAR THE TRAIL --BUT DON'T BELIEVE IT! You may be only 50 -100 feet away from water--but cliffs, thick undergrowth, or other impassable conditions will keep you from getting to that water source. You may indeed be near swamps, bogs, beaver ponds, and similar watery areas as you backpack on the MRT. Yet, that water will be so muddy and so full of "gunk" that it will be nearly impossible to filter (and it will very likely clog your filter numerous times--just trying to filter a liter or two). Even when filtered, the smell and the taste of such water may very well cause you to want to vomit. So, don't plan on it as a possible source for drinking water...even if both filtered and treated. A creek that was there last year (or even earlier in the same summer) may have since dried up due to weather conditions---or been dammed up somewhere by beavers. YOU CANNOT COUNT ON ACQUIRING ANY WATER BETWEEN CAMPGROUNDS --even if that water source was there last year or earlier this year. (A Special Note About Little Todd Harbor: If you plan to skip staying overnight at Little Todd Harbor--but still want to refill on water there--please remember that it is a 1.2 mile round trip hike from the Minong Ridge Trail to Little Todd Harbor and back to the trail). As an alternative, if it is flowing, there IS a creek that the Minong Ridge Trail crosses --just a short distance from the Little Todd Harbor trail junction. (The MRT crosses this creek roughly 0.5 miles "southeast" of the Little Todd Harbor trail junction-- between Little Todd Harbor and Todd Harbor on the MRT. My GPS app says it is located at 48.01058, -88.91931). Probably No Water If you Camp Off Trail Sometimes, people will express that they have a desire (or an actual plan) to camp "off trail" somewhere on the Minong Ridge Trail --at a place other than an official campground. (This is called "cross country" camping on Isle Royale. It requires a specific permit and is governed by specific rules. See the link here). The biggest challenge for doing this--in addition to finding a safe spot that fits all of the requirements set forth in the regulations--is not having any water source at this "off trail" spot. This means that you might possibly need to carry TWO DAYS worth of water with you when you start out on that two day section of trail. MY PREFERRED DIRECTION The MRT officially runs between Windigo and McCargoe Cove. I prefer to hike the MRT from McCargoe Cove to Windigo. The biggest reasons are (possibly) having an "easier" first day when you hike it in that direction. I also think that the last day is far easier when you hike from McCargoe Cove toward Windigo. Many people begin their time on the Minong Ridge Trail (when coming in from the east) by either hiking to McCargoe Cove from somewhere else on the eastern (Rock Harbor) end of the Island or by getting dropped off at McCargoe Cove by a boat (such as the Voyager II). This automatically means that --on Day # 1--you have the choice of staying overnight at McCargoe Cove or you can hike "just" 6.7 miles from McCargoe Cove to Todd Harbor. Conversely, if you start out on the MRT at the Windigo end of the MRT--your hike to N. Desor on Day # 1 is roughly 12.6 miles. It is somewhat uphill for much of the way. You will walk over the top of 3-4 beaver dams (potentially already getting your feet wet and muddy in the very first half of Day # 1). Your pack weight will likely be at it's heaviest if this is your first day. Also, if you (foolishly?) try to hike this section of trail on the same day that you arrive at Isle Royale---you automatically get a somewhat late start to the hiking day--even if you are on one of the first boats or planes to arrive that day. (If you really plan on hiking the MRT from Windigo to McCargoe Cove, I highly recommend spending the first night enjoying Windigo and Washington Creek Campground--THEN starting out on the MRT very early the next morning). If you are hiking the MRT from McCargoe Cove to Windigo, the last day of your hike (12.6 miles from N. Desor to Windigo) will be with your lightest pack weight. You can start the long (12.6 mile) hike early in the day--just as the sun is coming up and before the sun on the ridges gets too hot. The general elevation trend will be downhill throughout most of the day. If you get wet and muddy at the beaver dams--it will be in the last half of your last day on the trail. You will most likely be done hiking for this trip and you won't need to hike any more in that wet and muddy footwear once you reach Windigo, You can clean up your footwear a bit and let it start to dry. The store, showers, and laundry capabilities also await you in Windigo. This is why I prefer to hike the MRT from McCargoe Cove to Windigo--instead of the other way around. AIM FOR SHORTER DISTANCE DAYS In my opinion, the MRT is more fun--and less challenging---if you stay at EVERY campground along the way. (McCargoe Cove, Todd Harbor, Little Todd Harbor. North Lake Desor, and Windigo/Washington Creek). When you skip one of the campgrounds, not only do you miss out on some great experiences, you also potentially push yourself to hike too far in one day. Some of the distances between campgrounds on the MRT are rather short--but the short sections can sometimes physically and emotionally kick your butt. One such section of trail is between Little Todd Harbor and North Lake Desor. It is only around 5.7 miles in length--but they are possibly the toughest and slowest 5.7 miles on Isle Royale. It is not uncommon for some people to hike this section at a pace of just 1 or 1.5 mph. Some folks might even hike that section more slowly than that. So, for many people, hiking that one short section of trail is going to take 4 to 6 hours. If you then add to that 5.7 mile distance--the 7 miles between Little Todd Harbor and Todd Harbor-- you now have nearly a 13 mile day of hiking some of the toughest miles on Isle Royale. It will be a very long day--and if you don't start early in the day--you may not get to your campsite before dark. It can be a similarly long and hard day if you try to hike from McCargoe Cove to Little Todd Harbor in one day (13.5 miles). I tried that in 2012--after being dropped off by the Voyager II at McCargoe Cove in the early afternoon. It was not fun. My hiking partner and I hiked into Little Todd Harbor after dark. We were hiking roughly the last mile with headlamps and creeping our way down the trail one very short and slow step at a time. We had to set up camp, filter water, and prepare a meal in the dark (after hiking 13.5 miles on the MRT and after the long boat ride from Grand Portage. MN to Windigo to McCargoe Cove). In many ways, we were reckless idiots. (Part of the issue was--the boat was over an hour late getting us to McCargoe Cove and we failed to shorten our planned hiking day accordingly. We should have stopped at Todd Harbor instead of pressing on to Little Todd). So, I speak from personal experience. I have hiked long days and short days on the MRT. At age 60, I hiked from Rock Harbor to Windigo in slightly under 3 days --going via the MRT. I covered the distance from McCargoe Cove to Windigo in under 48 hours. I have also taken 4 days to hike from McCargoe Cove to Windigo. Trust me, the four day option was much easier and a heck of a lot more enjoyable. Every campground on the MRT is wonderful. I don't like missing any of them. EMERGENCY COMMUNICATION I would strongly encourage people hiking the Minong Ridge Trail (in addition to bringing a map and compass) to also carry a GPS device or GPS cell phone app (that works off of satellite signal and not cell tower signals. And, be sure to download the proper Isle Royale maps BEFORE your trip). ALSO BRING SOME SORT OF SATELLITE COMMUNICATION DEVICE. Remember, you will very likely NOT have a cellphone signal on Isle Royale and will not be able to place a phone call for help. I discuss such communication devices on this page of my website. (Click this Link) SOME VIDEOS My favorite set of Minong Ridge Trail videos was created by Donna WIlson. Her YouTube Channel is called "Some Bold Adventure". Episodes 4 thru 11 of this particular video series are the episodes which cover Donna backpacking on the Minong Ridge Trail between McCargoe Cove and Windigo. In my opinion, her videos (regarding the Minong Ridge Trail) give the best depiction of what hiking the MRT is really like. I have personally hiked the Minong when trail conditions were BETTER than they were when Donna hiked the trail. I have had times when the Minong Ridge Trail conditions were WORSE than they were when Donna did her hike. So, this video series is a fairly good representation of "typical" hiking conditions on the MRT. Here is the link: Donna Wilson (Some Bold Adventure) Minong Videos CONCLUSION The Minong Ridge Trail IS NOT for everyone. It is indeed a challenging hike and it does have some risks. The biggest risks (in my opinion) occur when the "wrong" people (who are not yet ready for a MRT hike) come poorly trained, poorly equipped, and poorly prepared and they still try to hike the MRT anyway. They are essentially an accident and a rescue that are just waiting to happen. In my opinion, the MRT IS NOT a place for beginners and rookies. You really need to be an experienced backpacker who is is well-versed in things like land navigation and outdoor survival in tough conditions (in the event that you encounter some problems during your hike). It is important to have some past experience in dealing with backcountry situations where unexpected things (like bad weather or damaged gear) have occurred. Frankly, even with people who are well-versed in backpacking, ideally hiking the MRT should not happen on someone's first Isle Royale trip. (I would encourage them to get some prior Isle Royale backpacking experience before attempting to hike the Minong). A person (ideally) needs to be in "better than average" physical condition when hiking the MRT. The hiking days are often long and a bit challenging. A person would be well-advised to carry 3-4 liters of water on the MRT--which means having a heavier pack weight (while hiking a somewhat challenging trail). Not everyone is physically able to do such things. In my opinion, the Minong Ridge Trail is not particularly difficult (unless trail conditions are super wet). The big problem is that people --with too little backpacking experience (and too little backcountry experience)--attempt to backpack the entire Minong Ridge Trail. They try to hike the MRT and hike daily sections that are probably "too big and too long" and they don't allow enough time to hike any particular section of trail. They carry too little water. They are not well prepared to deal with a minor first aid emergency--much less deal with a major first aid emergency. They are not easily able to find any trail --unless that trail looks almost like a super highway--and is wide and has big signs. Their land navigation skills are virtually non-existent. Their physical conditioning is poor. In my opinion, such persons should not be on the Minong Ridge Trail. It is safety issue The problem is not so much that the Minong Ridge Trail is "difficult". (To a certain extent, the MRT IS somewhat difficult). The problem is that some people try to hike the Minong Ridge Trail --and they have planned their hike poorly or incompletely. They are poorly trained. They are poorly equipped, They are in somewhat poor physical condition. And, they are lacking in very basic backcountry and wilderness experience. They aren't yet ready for the Minong Ridge Trail. Oftentimes, the hiker is more the problem than is the "difficulty" of the Minong Ridge Trail. Backpacking the Minong Ridge Trail can be a great (and possibly life-changing) experience on Isle Royale. However, backpacking the Minong Ridge Trail is not for everyone. You have to be properly prepared and you need to have the proper experience, equipment, physical conditioning, and a proper plan. Pictures of the actual Minong Ridge Trail. In each of these photos, the trail runs top to bottom in roughly the center of the photo (Click to enlarge each photo)Some Other Photos From the Minong Ridge TrailThus far, I have made 18 trips to Isle Royale. Of those 18 trips, 12 have been completely solo. On two additional (long) trips, I was solo for part of the trip and I then spent time with friends for another part of the trip. Bottom Line: I REALLY enjoy being alone on Isle Royale.
I think that there are many joys and benefits of being solo on Isle Royale. There are also some risks and challenges associated with being alone. In this blog post, I will attempt to explore both the joys--and the challenges & risks--of traveling solo on Isle Royale. I am going to start out with the challenges and risks of being solo. 1. If you are "solo", you have no one to assist you if you have an emergency. That is always one of my biggest concerns when I am solo. "What if trip, fall, 'face plant on a rock', have a heart attack or stroke, impale myself on something sharp, become extremely ill, break a bone, etc.?" In such an instance, I would have no one to assist me and no one to go get help--and that could be the difference between life and death. I ultimately decided that I cannot completely eliminate the risk of such things happening--even if I am traveling with other people. The best that I can do is take steps to manage such risks--both when I am with others--and especially when I am alone. As a solo traveler, I need to plan better and prepare for my trip better. I need to pack things that will help me deal with medical emergencies and other emergencies. I ought to carry a satellite communication device or emergency beacon. People need to know my planned itinerary. As a solo person, I need to be well-trained in how to treat myself for medical emergencies and injuries...and I must have the necessary supplies with me. 2. If you are solo, you have to carry EVERYTHING and do ALL of the work. People who are with a partner or group will often split up the gear and food among the people in the group. They will also divide up the various tasks and chores. (One person will set up the tent, while another person goes to collect and filter water, and a third person might start meal preparations). As a solo traveler, you carry it all and you do it all. 3. When you are solo, you have no one else with whom you can consult. You have no one else to ask--"Should we turn left or right?" or "Does that look like a blue-green algal bloom to you?". There is no one to help you find the next rock cairn or locate that temporarily "missing" section of trail (if hiking) and no one to help you look for the portage sign (if paddling). You are all alone. Thus, the only skills that you have are the skills that YOU bring. You have to know how to use a map and compass. You need to know how to do first aid. You need to know how to set up the tent and work the stove and troubleshoot all problems. It is all up to you. So, you need to come fully prepared. 4. Solo trips can have times that are a bit "scary". I remember being at North Lake Desor Campground--on the Minong Ridge Trail. I was the ONLY person at the entire campground. The next closest campgrounds were nearly six miles away in one direction, over 12 miles away in the other direction, and all the way across a lake in another direction. That means that I was definitely .... alone. I must confess, it was very "unsettling" that night when a pack of wolves began to howl. Another time, I was hiking alone on the very remote 7 mile trail between Malone Bay and the Ishpeming Fire Tower. I heard something large--and four-legged--walking in the woods--just out of my eyesight. (It sounded bigger than a fox--but smaller than a moose--and about the same as my Chocolate Lab back home). When I walked--it would begin to walk. When I stopped walking. It stopped walking. Again, that situation was very "unsettling" when I was all alone--and probably a few miles away from anyone else. Also, meeting strange and/or quirky people on the trail or in campgrounds makes me feel more nervous when I am alone than when I am with other people. I don't think any of them were dangerous. It is just that you are a bit more aware of such people (and more cautious) when you are alone. HOWEVER, TRAVELING SOLO ALSO HAS BENEFITS A. You have something that is often missing in our society---solitude. This is particularly true if you leave the radios, mp3 players, and podcasts home. Think about your daily life. How often are you TRULY alone? How often are you away from the sounds of radios, televisions, people, computers, the hum of refrigerators, and the buzz of florescent lights? When I am traveling alone on Isle Royale, I can sometimes go for hours without seeing another person. I once went for 28 hours (on the Minong Ridge Trail) without encountering another human being. Last July (after much training, rehearsal and proper preparation) I did a solo night hike on an "easy" section of trail that I knew very well. I started hiking (by headlamp)--at 1:30 a.m.. At around 3:30 a.m., I shut off my headlamp for a while and just stood there--taking it all in. It doesn't get much more "alone" than that. I was solo on a trail--about 5-6 miles from Windigo--at 3:30 a.m. No lights. No boat or plane noises. No one was talking in campsites. Complete solitude. (I will admit, on that night hike, my mind kept switching back and forth between "Oh, Wow! I am all alone on Isle Royale in the middle of the night! How cool is this!" and "Oh, crap! I am all alone on Isle Royale in the middle of the night. How stupid am I!" (Please remember, I had planned, prepared, and rehearsed that night hike for a few years before doing it.) B. You truly get to do things YOUR way when you are solo. You select the route. You pick the food. You set the pace. You decide when to take a break. You decide when to go to sleep and when to get up. As long as you stay within the park rules and regulations, you can do whatever YOU want to do--whenever you want to do it--without consulting with another human being. How often do you get to do that at home, work, and/or school? C. You will probably hear and see more wildlife when you are solo. Unless you are making a great deal of noise (or are talking to yourself)--a solo person usually moves through the wilderness much more quietly than two people or a group. This increases your chances of hearing and seeing more wildlife. D. "There's always room for one more!" The word "always" is perhaps a bit of an exaggeration--but I think that you will soon get my point. There may be room on a boat or plane for ONE more passenger--but maybe not for two, three, or six additional passengers. People might be more willing to invite ONE person to share a campsite or shelter--than to invite a group of five people to share a campsite or shelter. Many hikers--and especially many boaters--are VERY proud of their wilderness cooking. They love to show off their cooking skills---especially if they have a little "extra" or some leftovers. Thus, they might say to you, "You just grab yourself a plate, and tell me if that isn't the BEST fish (or chili, or cobbler, or barbecue, or home dehydrated apple slices) that you ever tasted!". A solo hiker (or solo paddler) will likely receive that sort of invitation far more often than a group of four or five people. As a frequent solo traveler, I have often been invited to partake in activities (and/or food) that I am not so certain I would have received if I was with a partner or with a group. E. I think that there is a somewhat greater "sense of accomplishment" when you do a solo trip. I think that the person (who is doing the solo trip) feels that sense of accomplishment---as do many other people who hear the story of a solo journey. Spending seven days in the wilderness is indeed an accomplishment. However, spending seven days in the wilderness ALONE--perhaps seems like a slightly "bigger" accomplishment in the eyes of many people. Our society seems to place a special value on solo endeavors. Little children are quick to say, "And, I did it ... all by myself!" Headlines will read, "He/She sailed around the world--solo". At a music concert, we single out soloists for special recognition. History books tell us that Charles Lindbergh was the person to fly across the Atlantic Ocean--solo. Our society seems to place a special value on solo accomplishments. Solo trips to Isle Royale probably fall in that same category (in the eyes of some people) Whether you travel alone, with a partner, or with a group...enjoy your Isle Royale adventures! Here is a bunch of random Isle Royale information that I have assembled. I have seen one (or more) people overlook each of these things—and then be faced with tough choices and/or unpleasant experiences during their Isle Royale trip. Please consult the official National Park Service Isle Royale website and/or the Isle Royale Official Park newspaper ("The Greenstone") for the best and most recent official information.
-- DRINKING WATER: Unless you are staying ONLY at Rock Harbor or Windigo and are ONLY drinking water from a water faucet at one of those two areas--you will need to filter or boil all of your drinking and cooking water on Isle Royale. The filter must filter out things 0.4 microns or smaller. You cannot (safely) just drink water out of a stream or lake. You cannot just chemically treat the water. The water needs to be boiled or filtered. The National Park Service and the CDC ALSO recommend treating the filtered water with chemical treatment (such as iodine tablets, bleach, or other chemical treatments) or with a UV treatment--such as a “Steripen” IN ADDITION TO FILTERING THE WATER. (Some people disagree with the need to both filter AND treat the water--but that is the official recommendation. Sometimes, inland lakes have blue-green algal blooms. This can make the water extremely toxic and such water CANNOT BE MADE SAFE by boiling, filtering, and/or treatment. -- PETS: You cannot bring your dog, cat, or other animal with you to Isle Royale. The only exception is ADA service dogs and there are extremely strict rules (and paperwork) regarding bringing them to Isle Royale. -- CELLPHONES: For all practical purposes, your cellphone will not work to make phone calls, texts, or to use the internet on Isle Royale. There are a few (usually high elevation) spots where you MIGHT catch a cellphone signal from Canada. Be prepared to pay some hefty international fees (if your phone works in those spots) and if you don't have an international servce plan. Also, if you are just hiking through one of those areas where there is a Canadian cell signal—and your phone is “on” and NOT in airplane mode—your phone might get all of your unopened texts, phone messages, and app updates (and you will have to pay huge fees). -- WiFi AVAILABILITY: There is some limited WiFi available in limited places at Rock Harbor--for overnight guests at Rock Harbor Lodge. -- CAMPING PERMITS: If you are going to be camping or using any of the camping shelters on Isle Royale, you will need to get a backcountry camping permit when you arrive on the island (or when on the Ranger III boat) — CAMPFIRES: There are VERY few places on Isle Royale where you can have a campfire. And, some of those places (where you can have a campfire) only have a “community” campfire ring that must be shared with others at the entire campground. So, you probably shouldn't plan on sitting around a campfire every night. or cooking all of your meals over a campfire — FIRES, SAWS, & AXES: You can only use dead and downed wood for campfires. You cannot cut down standing trees or tree libs--even if they are dead. They recommend using nothing thicker than three inches in diameter (about the size of a wrist). You probably won’t be using it. (And, unless you are properly trained and officially authorized to do so--you can't clear trails). So, you might as well leave that saw, ax, and hatchet at home. — FINDING WATER TO DRINK: On a map, many places along the Isle Royale trails --LOOK like they are close to places where you can stop and filter water. The truth is—you are probably separated from that water source by high rocky cliffs and/or by impenetrable underbrush—or the swampy and murky water that you find near the trail may be so nasty that your water filter will want to run away in fear. For the most part, if hiking, you should only plan on being able to filter water at established campgrounds. When you leave camp in the morning, you should probably plan on carrying enough water to last you until you reach your campground at the end of the hiking day. --PICNIC TABLES are only available at campgrounds located along Lake Superior-and not even all of the Lake Superior campgrounds have picnic tables. inland campgrounds do not have picnic tables. — TOILET PAPER: Plan on bringing your own toilet paper. READ THAT PREVIOUS SENTENCE AGAIN. Unlike years ago, in recent years--the National Park Service has stopped stocking outhouses with toilet paper. Also, it is almost unheard of to find toilet paper at an inland campground (unless someone accidentally left their paper behind). — REGARDING HAMMOCKS: There are rules and conditions regarding the use of hammocks on Isle Royale. It can sometimes be difficult to find a spot to hang your hammock that meets all of the rules. In campgrounds, hammocks may only be used within the existing impacted area of designated sites and not in the surrounding trees. Hammocks may not be hung inside shelters. Choose trees with care; many cannot support a hammock. Hammock use must not damage trees. If your party has more than one hammock—the challenge of finding suitable (and "legal") spots to hang multiple hammocks becomes even more difficult--or an impossibility. Permissible hammock locations may not always be available--so bring a tent or tarp or similar back up plan. (Note, I am often a “hammock hanger”. So, I am definitely not anti-hammock). — STAYING AT SHELTERS: Wooden camping shelters are available at ONLY SOME Isle Royale campgrounds. Wooden shelters do not exist at any inland campgrounds. Furthermore, not all campgrounds along Lake Superior have wooden camping shelters either. There is no guarantee that you will be able to get a spot in a wooden shelter--so--bring a tent, a tarp, a camping hammock--etc. Keep reading for more about shelters. — HAMMOCKS AT SHELTERS: You cannot use hammocks INSIDE the wooden shelters. — TENTS AT SHELTERS: You can set up tents INSIDE the wooden shelters. (Some people do this for extr warmth and for extra protection from wind and rain. Using nails, tacks, hooks, staples, or tape to attach things to the shelters is prohibited! --SIX PEOPLE IN A SHELTER: In theory shelters sleep six people. However, that many people in shelter can sometimes feel crowded. And, --if a strong wind is blowing rain inside of the sheter--people and gear located near the screened wall of the shelter may get wet. — SHELTERS CANNOT BE RESERVED nor can shelters be used as a spot to store your gear while you camp elsewhere at the same campground or while you camp elsewhere on the Island. — FIRST COME BASIS: Shelters are on a “FIRST COME” basis. My rule of thumb is DON’T PLAN ON GETTING A SHELTER. Be pleasantly surprised if you get one. Always bring a tent, tarp, or similar form of shelter with you. It is far more likely that you WON'T get a spot in a shelter than you WILL get a spot in a shelter. — SHARING SHELTERS: It is the National Park Service recommendation (NOT AN NPS LAW OR RULE) that you share shelters until they reach their capacity of six people. The reality is, there is NOT a lot of shelter sharing that happens at Isle Royale unless there is bad weather or similar problem. Even in those rough situations, don’t always count on someone sharing a shelter with you. People will sometimes say "NO" to sharing a shelter that they occupy--even during a big storm and even if they are alone in a shelter. Be pleasantly surprised and grateful if sthe haring of shelters happens. I tend to offer space in the shelter that I occupy--especially if the weather is poor. --SHARING OF TENT SITES: Sharing of tent sites happens often. When conditions are crowded, sharing of tent sites IS THE NORM. You are expected to share tent sites in crowded conditions. — DAILY FEES: There is a $7.00 per person--PER DAY park entrance fee. (Persons age 15 and under are exempt from this fee). Be prepared to pay the fee. You can pay the fee in advance or pay it at the park when you arrive. HOWEVER, please be advised that the National Park Service now only acccpts credit cards (and not cash). There are also Isle Royale passes and National Park Service passes that you can purchase to cover the daily fee. T — LIVING OFF OF THE LAND: DO NOT plan to “live off the land” while at Isle Royale. 1) Killing and or trapping the animals of Isle Royale is forbidden. Also, you cannot gather their eggs (nor can you try to obtain milk from the animals). 2) Do not planning on surviving on fish. You might not be lucky enough to catch any fish on a particular day--nor on your entire trip. 3) Don’t assume that you will find anywhere near enough berries to sustain you. You cannot cut or uproot any plants—other than eating berries. Thus, you cannot gather edible plants to consume. PLEASE BRING ENOUGH FOOD FOR YOUR ENTIRE TRIP (AND FOR ONE OR TWO EXTRA DAYS--IN CASE YOUR TRANSPORTATION HOME IS DELATED). — CAMPING AND HIKING AWAY FROM CAMPGROUNDS AND TRAILS: You cannot camp at any place other than the established campgrounds. UNLESS you get a special cross country permit. Those permits have strict limitations regarding where you can use them. — IMPORTANT! PLEASE READ THIS: Once you get on your boat or plane (to or from Isle Royale), your backpack or luggage will be stored—and YOU WILL NOT HAVE ACCESS TO IT DURING THE TRIP TO/FROM THE ISLAND. So, you might want to have big pockets (or a small bag) in which to carry any food, water, jackets, rain gear, mediction, maps or documents that you plan to use en route to/from the island. Also, it might be a half-hour (or more) before you get reunited with your pack or luggage after you reach land. Thus, you might want to carry with you anything that you might need in your first half-hour on the island (including a wallet, park passes, any receipts you might need, rain gear, and/or any medication). --IT WILL PROBABLY BE COLD ON THE BOAT: Bring a jacket. Also, bring rain gear—just in case. Not all boats have enough indoor seating for all passengers. Also, if you are feeling seasick—you WILL be outside. (even in the rain). --SUNBURN ON BOATS: Many people get sunburned on the boats. The sun reflects off of the water and off of shiny surfaces on the boats. Nothing is worse than starting off (or ending) your isle Royale trip with a sunburn. So, if you are outside on the boats, please cover your skin with appropriate sun-blocking clothing, hats, and/or sunscreen. — LEAVE YOUR MOTOR VEHICLE AND YOUR CAMPER ON THE MAINLAND: You cannot drive a motor vehicle to Isle Royale. There are no bridges. You cannot bring your vehicle or your camper on the ferries. People have actually thought that they could bring their vehicles and campers to Isle Royale. — PLAN ON GETTING WET AND MUDDY when you are at Isle Royale—and be pleasantly surprised if that doesn’t happen. — IT CAN GET COLD ON ISLE ROYALE: It can get cold on Isle Royale—especially overnight. In ANY month—be prepared for temperatures down into the 30s (Fahrenheit). In May, June, September, and October— it can get into the 20s. The record low for October is 13 degrees. — STAY LIMITS AT CAMPGROUNDS: There are consecutive night “stay limits” at all of the campgrounds (and shelters) at Isle Royale. Probably the most important ones to note are the ONE CONSECUTIVE NIGHT STAY LIMIT at Rock Harbor Campground, Three Mile Campground, and Lane Cove Campground. (There some exceptions to that one night stay limit very early and very late in the season). TWO CONSECUTiVE NIGHT LIMITS: At Lake Desor, Chickenbone Lake, Hatchet Lake, Lake Richie, Little Todd Harbor, Feldtmann Lake, Intermediate Lake, Lake Whittlesey, Pickerel Cove, and Wood Lake. There are MANY campgrounds with a THREE CONSECUTIVE NIGHT STAY LIMIT. See the official National Park Service Isle Royale website and/or "The Greenstone" Isle Royale newspaper for the complete and latest list of stay limits. — GROUP PERMITS: If you are going to have more than six (6) people in your group —you need a GROUP CAMPING PERMIT. You need to get that permit BEFORE YOU COME TO THE ISLAND. There are very strict limits on where people can stay and how many groups can stay. Get your group permit early in order to avoid problems and issues. One note: More than 10 people are not allowed in a group. Thus, groups larger than ten people need to split into TWO totally independent groups with completely different itineraries than each other. They canno stay closer than a half-mile to each other. |
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Jon Prain ("The Isle Royale Guy") has made 18 trips to Isle Royale. He shares his insights and opinions in this blog. Archives
March 2024
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